First, let’s deal with the ugly- another paper mill. Not quite the eyesore as the one in Fernandina, but when the wind blew our way, boy it sure was a sick-y smell. Russ was sneezing worse than ever, so we kept our stay to one night just in case the mill was the culprit. Then again, walking around with everything in bloom might do it too.
Now for the good: the town is charming with even MORE historic homes, churches and cemeteries then Beaufort. Front Street runs along the water and contains all the requisite shops, eateries, banks, bookstores and salons to hold your attention. So what there was no grocery store nearby, so what the nice woman at the visitor center wasn’t saleswoman enough to tell us what we might find in town for provisions. Heck, we walked barely a block and found Morsels Specialty Market. Not a place to stock up, but we got roast beef and Swiss cheese for Russ and a few odds and ends to supplement our stock.
Toured the town with map in hand. The numbered houses (1-63) were in the age range (1737-1860) and info about each one was included on the map. I fell in love with a few and thought if maybe someone was around, we’d stop and chat- you know- oh that’s right, we’re on land now.
One of the country’s oldest Jewish cemeteries is here, with most of the headstones facing east. The Eleazer Waterman house, c.1770 was notable in that Waterman was originally from Connecticut. The cat on the porch is alive; looked at it for nearly a minute, thinking maybe it was stuffed, but then the ear twitched- we nearly were fooled.
At the end of our walk we came upon a seafood place on the water; the best kind. Not a clean, everything in a lovely case, “store”, but the real deal. The shrimp sat in big buckets and the fish, some recently caught and cut that morning were pre-bagged so you picked what you wanted. They had plenty in the freezer – lobster tails too. When we heard they were Maine tails, was so hard to resist, but I’d gotten enough fish and shrimp for five meals and our freezer was near bursting.
Found a bakery; it was that and more. Wine, frozen meats and veggies, hors d’ouvres, cheese and a luscious selection of cakes… napkin to wipe the drool please.
We briefly shared the inside of the face dock with a Krogen 44; chatting up the owner in the hopes of a tour was out of the question. Tonight was finish those darn tax returns and get them filed. We did it and what a relief to have that chore out of the way. Guess that leaves room to continue on those dinghy chaps.