Bridges, Bridges & More Bridges

Tomorrow we’re crossing into Florida – it’s been a great trip so far! While there are always some weather issues, minor repairs & all, it’s been smooth “sailing” so far. While stopping at many of our usual stops, we’ve explored a few new as well.

Although not usually a problem transiting thru, bridges under construction are more than ever. While Florida wins the prize for the most & the speediest construction, here are some contenders between CT & Georgia.

The slowest prize goes to Connecticut. The replacement for this Amtrak bridge over the Connecticut River has been talked about for 30+ years. After it’s 120th birthday, construction has finally begun.
This bridge under construction over the Alligator River in North Carolina is the longest under construction at nearly 2 1/2 miles. With a fixed bridge opening height of 65′, it will replace an old swing bridge which in addition to frequent breakdowns, would not open when the wind gusts over 30 knots, causing havoc for transiting boats.
The closest to our slip bridge was this one in Charleston. Glad we weren’t any closer as they casually swung those massive I-beams around.
After building a new, high bridge just 3 years ago, the 2nd one is already partially completed in Georgia.
Darn – this low railroad bridge in Norfolk will likely never be replaced in our cruising time & pretty much shuts down the Elizabeth River as there is only 6′ of clearance when closed (the photo shows it still closing). Everything here is very slow – it takes about 10 minutes for it to close, 15 minutes before the 1st train approaches, then as one begins to cross, they start & stop for up to 45 minutes. The hundreds of railcars are loaded from a nearby container ship port & I’m guessing they’re adding more railcars as it slowly moves along. Unfortunately, several busy railroad bridges are in this stretch south of Norfolk before a lock which only operates every hour, so if this bridge (or one of the others) holds you up too long, you’re behind schedule & stuck idling for up to an hour waiting before the lock. This year we got delayed with this & a 2nd railroad bridge yet still made the lock with minutes to spare.
Although not helping with that bridge, there are a few opening bridges with roughly 16′ of vertical clearance, so close for us to pass under. This year I lowered our flag staff for a few bridges, which gets us down to just over 13′. It’s nice to be able to zoom thru, rather than waiting minutes to hours waiting for an opening.
This bridge at Onslow Beach, NC (Camp Lejeune) is actually brand new & one of the few times a bridge is replaced without making it a high 65′ clearance bridge. At least being built just 2′ higher & lowering our flag staff, we made it thru with a foot to spare.
Once past Myrtle Beach, SC, we had just celebrated not needing any opening bridges for a few hundred miles, but WAIT – this floating, swing bridge just south of Georgetown, SC … is it closing?! This “bridge” is basically a long barge, hinged on the right-side & with a propulsion motor on the left-side so it sort-of motors open & close to create a floating bridge. Fortunately, I believe the operator saw us approaching & waited to open, so this closing view was in our rearview mirror.

With all of the new bridge construction replacing opening bascule and swing bridges the last 16 years, I’m estimating nearly 1/2 of the opening bridges we needed openings for in our original sailing catamaran are now 65′ high fixed bridges, so a huge improvement for all cruisers. Unfortunately, many of the remaining opening bridges frequently break down and/or have reduced opening schedules due to car traffic. Some, for example, open only every hour, but then not for 3 hours at both morning & evening rush hours, so sailboats have a really tough time.

Always unusual sights along our travels. Lori wants this kind of paddleboard – with a comfy chair & an electric outboard! Doggie is optional.
This unusual fishing boat (one of 8 nearly similar ones) we came across on the Chesapeake are a bit controversial. While the bait fish Menhaden have been harvested by Native Americans for hundreds of years & by small commercial operations for a hundred years, one company has been a little too aggressive (experts say) with these massive netting ships, that use planes & drones to spot schools of Menhaden, taking nearly 50,000 metric tons/year. At this intense level, the striped bass & other fish population is dropping & most notable is that (some experts say), in pockets of the Chesapeake, the ospreys are literally starving to death as the oil-rich Menhaden (which are their primary food) are being severely overfished.
Lori thinks this is how we should travel south next year – in style! This powercat ferry is headed to the Savannah waterfront for the tourist season.

Our next stop will be in St. Augustine, FL, before spending a month in Vero Beach, prepping for crossing to the Bahamas.

Lori’s Two Cents: Despite these photos showing mostly calm waters, we had more windy days than usual and hid from very windy days more than a few times. Happy that our Safe Harbor membership helped lower the cost of being secure in a slip. Keeping up with laundry and groceries, eating out, meeting fellow cruisers was a breeze! While in Beaufort, SC we tried Mother Smokin’ Good BBQ (near the large town day dock, now usable) and proclaim their pulled pork even more delicious than Sandfly BBQ in Isle of Hope- can’t go wrong with either one!

Heading South – Now Heading Down the Chesapeake

Ahhh … The weather in September can be so wonderful! Do we stay for most of the month & enjoy Connecticut’s beautiful late summer weather? Or, do we get going as we know the 2nd half of September can become … challenging? Well, we certainly made the right decision this year!

About to pass the UN with the World Trade Center (appearing) tiny to its right. The next week this portion of the East River would be wall-to-wall USCG, NYPD, NYFD & unmarked military-looking vessels, with accompanying complete closures on “important” UN session days.
The evening of 9/11, viewing the twin light beams (but appearing single from 12 miles away) while anchored near Atlantic Highlands, NJ.
A gorgeous sunrise heading offshore from NY/NJ.
A satisfying sunset 11 hours later in Cape May, NJ. A smooth & easy 114 nautical miles.
The next day brought us 90 miles up the Delaware, through the C & D Canal & partially down the Chesapeake to Great Oak Landing Marina. With remarkably perfect timing, we had a 1 – 3 knot current with us the entire day up, across & down which made arrival at the marina before closing time much easier. The unique feature here is a popular beach bar right at the very narrow S-turn entrance (to the left) with strong current & room for only one boat at a time. The drinking crowd (standing on the beach only feet away) cheer (or boo) each passing boat with extra hooting when one runs aground. Yes, some of those go-fast boats have SIX outboards.
While most of our usual stops are on the western shore (Annapolis, Baltimore, Eastport, Deltaville, etc.) we planned a couple of stops on the quieter eastern shore, which surprisingly, is mostly farmland. Even though a 3-hour ride up the Chester River, we really enjoyed Chestertown several years ago (pictured during their annual Schooner Festival). A cute little town, very walkable with lots of history, a fantastic bakery, chocolate shop, cheese shop, natural foods store, misc shops and great restaurants.
The Watershed Alley Restaurant was a great choice for a special birthday dinner for Lori!
Passing the USCG EAGLE off Annapolis.
Continuing our eastern shore adventures, we stopped (anchored) briefly in St. Michaels which wins the prize for the most restaurants & even its own rum distillery.
Our last eastern stop was Cambridge, Maryland. Unknown to us the day we arrived, the park adjacent to the marina was the Maryland IRONMAN Triathlon start/end with 1,200 participants & thousands of spectators (note the sign in the upper lefthand corner). For us, however, the highlight of Cambridge was stopping by their crab cannery which for over 100 years, has been processing local crabs into lump crab meat. We bought a pound & thoroughly enjoyed it for the next week in scrambled eggs, on pizza, in the excellent Cream of Crab Soup from Chestertown, on shrimp, added as extra on crabcakes, etc. It was fresh & fantastic!
Smoke billowing from an electrical cabinet is never good. We noticed a terrible burning smell right after starting our generator, which at least narrowed the cause down to a likely 120-volt source. The culprit was this 120-volt exhaust fan. Beginning to end was only about 2 minutes so not even time to panic! Especially anchored out or underway you’re pretty much on your own – if a fire were to ever start aboard, you’d have little time to find & extinguish it, as fiberglass burns really hot & fast.
Every journey needs at least one problem (o.k. – this was #2). One of our VHF radios stopped receiving well – not a big problem as we have two, but this VHF also receives & transmits AIS signals (which display our boat on other boats’ chartplotters & other boats on ours). The wiring here is especially messy as this raceway leads to our cabin top, which 20 years of owners have added/changed solar panels, lighting, radar, TV satellite dome, over-air TV antenna, cellphone boosters, wifi boosters, etc. Reception problems are most certainly an antenna problem, so I checked the antenna itself, traced the wiring removing wall panels, tested every connector, etc. – with no problems found. Three days later, the ASSumption (as in making an ass of myself) caught up with me. I ASSumed the VHF radio mounted on the starboard side of the helm was connected to the starboard side antenna – NOPE! After 3 days, simply tightening the antenna connector (on the correct antenna) was a 10-minute fix.
We’re certainly glad we left CT a bit early, as we’ve been safely anchored in Solomons, Maryland during this northeaster. While it will take a few days before the Chesapeake calms down from its 4′ waves, if we were still in CT or NY waiting to come down the NJ coast, our wait would be much longer while those 12′ waves backed down to a more comfortable 2′.

While inconvenient, a week-long delay for some weather issue every fall is pretty common, so we are actually right on our average schedule. Fortunately, we got to spend time with our good friends Ann & Mike and sweet Spot while in Solomons.

We’ll soon head south down the final 90 miles to the Hampton/Norfolk area, which will put Twin Sisters at the official beginning of the 1,000-mile (mostly) protected ICW into Florida.