Jeepin’ Around the Block

Every island, no matter the latitude, possess an aura and allure that the mainland can’t quite compete with. Block is no exception; exploration, recreation, entertainment (even in the anchorage), beaches, shopping, food of all kinds- all to tempt you and keep you coming back for more. Over the years we’ve seen quite a bit of the island on foot, bike or taxi and this time I really wanted to get back out to the lighthouses and see more of the island. Block covers approx. 11 sq miles or 7,000 acres (including the Great Salt Pond); roughly half the land is preserved space. It’s easy to forget that Block Island offers more than a shop-filled main street that looks out over the ocean with unobstructed views to the horizon.

Water St in Old Harbor- Surf Hotel in background

Water St in Old Harbor- Surf Hotel in background

Shopping was not on my list and since I was obviously ill :-), Russ agreed to rent a Jeep for our island tour ( I also played the “birthday week” card). – side and rear panels removed. We began by driving up Corn Neck Rd to the North Light.

Hey-Going my way?

Hey-Going my way?

Our route is darkened, black dots show our stops

Our route is darkened, black dots show our stops

North Light: a 1/2 mile walk from the parking lot and not open during the week.

North Light: a 1/2 mile walk from the parking lot and not open during the week.

An event is recorded - for us to wonder and for nature to reclaim one day

An event is recorded – for us to wonder and for nature to reclaim one day

The Sacred Labyrinth

The Sacred Labyrinth

A display of labyrinth-related items including a journal kept in the box

A display of labyrinth-related items including a journal kept in the box on the lower shelf

The sacred labyrinth is made from small stones  and has a beautiful view of the North Light and Sachem Pond. A single winding path leads to the center and back out. Walking the labyrinth is a universal ritual that has remained unchanged for thousands of years. Often believed to heal body and soul; I must agree, as simply being near it cured me of my no-shopping illness.

We skipped The Maze, but later read it is a “must-do”.

We zoomed south past the beaches on Corn Neck Rd, fortified ourselves with a quick outdoor lunch and a T-shirt purchase for Russ ( see? bet he’s glad I got cured), then headed up Spring St toward the Southeast Lighthouse and the breathtaking Mohegan Bluffs.

Looking at Southeast Light from the edge of the bluff

Looking at Southeast Light from the edge of the bluff

A lighthouse on the move; in 1994 it was moved back about 500ft as constant bluff erosion was going to eventually topple this grand structure into the rocky shore below.

Looking down the more than 120 steps to the beach at Mohegan Bluffs

Looking down the more than 120 steps to the beach at Mohegan Bluffs

Just past the lighthouse is access to the beach far below. At one time the steps ended right at the beach but storms destroyed the lowest section and someone must have said, “why bother to replace it, people can use a rope.” I stayed on the landing with the camera and Russ hit the beach for close-ups on the field of cairns piled everywhere. Forget bluffs, this was more like Dune. Free transport to a sci-fi planet.

Russ makes the final descent to the beach

Russ makes the final descent to the beach

 Cairns piled across the beach

Cairns piled across the beach

Russ snaps close-ups with the trusty iPhone

Russ snaps close-ups with the trusty iPhone

Close-up of a tall one

Close-up of a tall one

A balancing cross cairn

A balancing cross cairn

Fresh Pond as seen from Greenway path

Fresh Pond as seen from Greenway path

The island contains several greenways and we walked part of one after “escape from planet cairn”.  As we traipsed along through the narrow swath of path through the fields, I began feeling sleepy, sleepy , oh the poppies, so sleepy.

What, not poppies?

What, not poppies?

and this isn't the wizard?

and this isn’t the wizard?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sign by the seasonal Coast Guard station at the entrance to New Harbor

Sign by the seasonal Coast Guard station at the entrance to New Harbor

One sign that is hardly needed is one pointing to the beach; from anywhere on the island you don’t have to walk far to find a great beach. With enough time you can try them all, each is unique, but none had many shells and even less sea glass.

A Particular Harbor

Menemsha (the name derives from an old coastal Native American word “Still Water”) is a special place; we’ve always loved it and wished for more time in this fishing harbor a bit more bustling than Cuttyhunk. Menemsha is located up-island on MV’s north side just a few miles from the western tip of the island. It is known for affording fabulous views of beautiful sunsets, lobster and fish markets to satisfy your every New England seafood desire, several shops to tempt you and beaches to sunbathe on or to beachcomb. Four hours was all our drooling, eager selves needed to cover all those bases; with temps in the low 70s we opted for beach combing rather than sun bathing.

One of two seafood markets by the docks in the harbor

One of two seafood markets by the docks in the harbor

If you take my picture I won't buy out the store

If you take my picture I won’t buy out the store

The harbor is postage stamp size with prime dock space for 15 power boats and 2 mooring balls for sailing vessels only (expect rafting). Additional dock space mid-harbor is available for unlucky power boats or ones who’d rather not have their every move and sound witnessed by neighbors and passersby. Larger yachts can dock parallel along the opposite side of that dock. Outside the harbor, just off the beach are additional mooring balls but they’d be a lousy choice if the wind is more than 12kts from any direction other than south. Another option is to anchor off the beach; the holding is very good in coarse sand and you can be in 10ft easily. We anchored of course.  Low wind for the afternoon and night made this the perfect time to visit Menemsha; who knows what the conditions would be when returning from Oak Bluffs farther east.

The essential bike ferry- so you can bike your hearts out across MV

The essential bike ferry- so you can bike your hearts out all across MV

Looking down the long dock toward the harbor entrance

Looking down the long dock toward the harbor entrance

After assisting Menemsha Blues with their end-of-summer sale and acquiring lobsters to steam aboard as well as a dozen local oysters to shuck we headed over to the beach. Happy me that the sea glass fairy (we are near Gay Head after all!) dropped a few teeny trinkets on her way to some other place; one of them a pea-sized piece of red sea glass.  Red is rare and this is my only piece.

Russ wanted to explore further up into Menemsha’s harbor and check out the decaying remains of Orca, the shark fighting vessel of Jaws fame. Orca was showing her age and neglect back in 2007 when we last stopped at Menemsha on Island Bound, our 320 SeaRay. After the movie was filmed she was brought to the harbor to rest on her laurels and whatever other parts, on the sandy flat long the harbor’s edge. Russ did not have any photo taking device with him I am sorry to say. While he was away I updated the blog and our “where-is” Google map.  I did not notice the large yacht until Russ shouted from the dinghy, “who’s the yacht?” Well, let’s check. I go to the chart plotter, touch the green AIS triangle and up pops this screen of info.

Who owns this? Let's just say that tonight Menemsha is Margaritaville

Who owns this? Let’s just say that tonight Menemsha is Margaritaville

Wide-eyed, we both realize at the same moment, just who owns that (cornflower) blue-hulled yacht. Happy hour and oysters can wait; we need to find out if he might actually be aboard. Umm, let’s see. Done with US concert tour, not heading to Paris until Sept 26. Yep, could be chillin’ out in this particular harbor. No guarantees because the yacht can be chartered, but still quite likely and this is second-home territory.  The 32’ center console tender zoomed in and back out to the mother ship. We watched expectantly as the yacht made her way into the harbor.

Continental Drifter heads for the breakwater entrance to Menemsha

Continental Drifter heads for the breakwater entrance to Menemsha

Oh ya, she’s going to tie up alongside the dock and we’ll dinghy in for some close-ups.

Continental Drifter III prepares to dock

Continental Drifter III prepares to dock

For some reason, the fenders had not been placed on the correct side and had to be laboriously moved to the yacht’s port side before she could snug up to the dock. Several onlookers stood by on the dock while others at the “prime” docks across the way stood on their bows, some with visual aids.

Hey big fender-won't you come on over?

Hey big fender-won’t you come on over?

Just think, Buffet and crew are here most likely for much the same reasons we are. To taste the saltiness of Menemsha and enjoy lobster, oysters and sunsets. For us just one night; the September winds would be present again for a couple of days so we’d kick it up a notch and head for more vibe in Oak Bluffs.