More Air in a Hurry

Stay, go, stay …. Go!!  Sunday’s forecast kept us guessing and chicken sailor I am, I was not up for 25kts, even off our stern. But when Sunday arrived and conditions looked favorable for a decent sail much of the day, we took off. Monday was predicted to be a motoring event so we wanted one last good sailing day to complete our Chesapeake expedition. Plus, s/v Spray Cat, an Island Spirit 400 (same as One White Tree), the cat ahead of us coming into Crisfield, was leaving and even we possess a teeny bit of competitive spirit.

The day was a virtual replica of Friday; big wind overnight, moderating in the morning and diminishing down to less than 10kts by early afternoon. We raised the main with one reef and shook it out after 30 minutes. Conditions were so favorable that we felt comfortable using the screecher, but that didn’t last long as the wind diminished too much to keep the large sail filled. At least we got to take a good look at her since the repair work and check that we’d gotten her and those long lines back on correctly. So much for that air in a hurry- in a hurry to leave I’d say.

We did catch up to Spray Cat who’d left at least 30 mins before us. But in their defense, they had a reef in the entire time and looked to be headed toward Deltaville, a closer destination than ours but a better sailing angle.

We passed by Wolf Trap Light near the end of our day

We passed by Wolf Trap Light near the end of our day

Even with our 9am late start we logged 57nm (65 land miles) in 8 ½ hours, arriving in Claxton Creek just past 5:30. Earlier in the day we crossed the state line; farewell Maryland, hello Virginia!

And some of you know what Virginia means- Norfolk! and all those Navy ships, Coast Guard cutters, tugs, barges, pleasure craft, pilot boats, container ships, oh my!   This being our seventh time through here we’ve become a bit blasé about the trip. But just in case others are too, the Naval ships make sure to get your attention.

Naval aircraft carrier #5 announced the ship was preparing to leave the dock and heading out to sea. Our ears prick up when we hear any naval vessel on the airwaves. This announcement is made on CH16 and is a bit lengthy. The gist of it is who they are, where they are headed and what actions other vessels should and should not take. Other vessels need to keep clear by at least 100 yards and if they don’t they will be subject to, “….including arrest and deadly force.” Well, alright-y then. We kept our distance and cut across the channel before #5 arrived.

We stay clear of No. 5 as she heads out of Norfolk

We stay clear of No. 5 as she heads out of Norfolk

We’d seen a steady stream of double-masted sailboats heading up the Chesapeake as we came in to Norfolk. After the first few I figured some weekend event must have taken place and sure enough we learned about the Schooner Fest. Weren’t surprised to see our old friend, The Pride of Baltimore II heading back to her home port. She sure gets around.

Pride of Baltimore II heads home after the schooner fest

Pride of Baltimore II heads home after the schooner fest

We got lucky and snagged the last spot on one of two free docks near the Great Bridge Bridge. Guess who was on the other free dock? Yes- Harmony II!  We may see them yet. Swapped stories and shared ActiveCaptain info with m/v Otter who was docked ahead of us. From our stop last April we knew just where to go; Chili’s for dinner, Panera for breakfast treats, then Farm Fresh supermarket for a couple of bags of food. We are now at Mile 12 on the official AICW; only another 1,000 more to go; less if you convert to nautical miles 🙂

 

Visiting s/v Sanuk in Crisfield

During warmer days in Vero Beach- Nov 2010

During warmer days in Vero Beach- Nov 2010

Once you meet a boat and her owners you tend to refer to them by the boat name. Even though s/v Sanuk herself (a Baba 30) spent the long winter in Marathon, FL and may eventually be replaced, Chris and Tracy will always be “Sanuk” to us. First though, a few words about Crisfield, who bills itself the “Crab Capital of the World”.

Originally called Annemessex, a Native American word meaning “bountiful waters”, Crisfield was a fishing village when Benjamin Somers was granted 300 acres in 1663 on what later became Somers Cove. Much like other towns nearby, Crisfield exploded in the mid-1800s when, thanks to John Woodland Crisfield, the railroad arrived. Oyster shipments ramped up and residents prospered. In 1866 the town was renamed Crisfield in honor of the man who was largely responsible for the flourishing economy.

By 1872 Crisfield was one of the biggest seafood producers in the U.S. and would fill 18 boxcars with oysters in a day!  Imagine all those mountains of discarded oyster shells. The town fathers believed in recycling and had the marshes filled with the shells, creating much of today’s waterfront in Crisfield. A town of many seafood festivals and producing at least one Maryland governor, Crisfield is very sleepy in the off-season. Oysters no longer rule, crabs do and they are heavily promoted.  Street and shop signs, the town’s water tower; all illustrate “crab capital.”

Somers Cove Marina had plenty of room for us.. and many others!

Somers Cove Marina had plenty of room for us.. and many others!

All that being said, we came to see Chris and Tracy who we hadn’t seen since spring 2011 as we both were headed north. This summer was their second as owners of Crisfield Boat Rentals (CBR), offering pontoons, kayaks, paddle boards, skiffs and a HobieCat to eager area visitors. Tour boats take you to Tangier and Smith islands, fishing charter boats bring you to fish and Crisfield Boat Rental fills the gap with providing the up close and personal on-water experience. Somers Cove Marina fills much of the basin, with the Coast Guard, tour boats and CBR occupying the rest. Off-season the marina looks nearly abandoned, too big for the need you start to think. But then in season with all the fests, fishing and fun, the marina fills up and boats anchor in the middle of the basin too.

Crisfield Boat Rental occupies space near the basin's entrance- can't miss 'em

Crisfield Boat Rentals occupies space near the basin’s entrance- can’t miss ’em

We dined, drank and met many of our friend’s friends. With a population of less than 2,000, knowing more than your immediate neighbor is easy. Plus, own a business and you get to know a ton of people.

One of the only (sit-down) restaurants open year-round is Waterman’s. Co-owner Brian, a “when he has time” sailor, stopped by to chat. He’s familiar with our home waters; a fact that should stop surprising us. Many people we meet have a connection to, have visited or cruised the waters of eastern LIS and the CT to MA shoreline- including all those well-known destination islands.

The weather placed a layer of gloominess over our short visit, but Chris and Tracy know how to have a good time and that we did. Our pontoon harbor tour was our first time in a flat, boxy multihull with more pep than you’d think. Very comfy with plenty of drink holders, room to lounge, oodles of storage and you can have a sun cover and a porta-potty to help extend your cruising range. When we eventually settle somewhere and become CLODs (cruisers living on dirt) a pontoon boat will be high on my list.  We see them everywhere along the ICW, filled with smiling faces who always wave. 🙂

Our tour boat arrives; a great way to enjoy happy hour

Our tour boat arrives; a great way to enjoy happy hour