Gorgeous Georgetown

georgetwon papermill

Papermill at Georgetown, SC

First, let’s deal with the ugly- another paper mill. Not quite the eyesore as the one in Fernandina, but when the wind blew our way, boy it sure was a sick-y smell. Russ was sneezing worse than ever, so we kept our stay to one night just in case the mill was the culprit. Then again, walking around with everything in bloom might do it too.
Now for the good: the town is charming with even MORE historic homes, churches and cemeteries then Beaufort. Front Street runs along the water and contains all the requisite shops, eateries, banks, bookstores and salons to hold your attention. So what there was no grocery store nearby, so what the nice woman at the visitor center wasn’t saleswoman enough to tell us what we might find in town for provisions.  Heck, we walked barely a block and found Morsels Specialty Market. Not a place to stock up, but we got roast beef and Swiss cheese for Russ and a few odds and ends to supplement our stock.
Toured the town with map in hand.  The numbered houses (1-63) were in the age range (1737-1860) and info about each one was included on the map.   I fell in love with a few and thought if maybe someone was around, we’d stop and chat- you know- oh that’s right, we’re on land now.

jewish cemetery Georgetown

Headstones are facing east, really.

One of the country’s oldest Jewish cemeteries is here, with most of the headstones facing east.  The Eleazer Waterman house, c.1770 was notable in that Waterman was originally from Connecticut. The cat on the porch is alive; looked at it for nearly a minute, thinking maybe it was stuffed, but then the ear twitched- we nearly were fooled.

Stealth cat on porch

At the end of our walk we came upon a seafood place on the water; the best kind. Not a clean, everything in a lovely case, “store”, but the real deal.  The shrimp sat in big buckets and the fish, some recently caught and cut that morning were pre-bagged so you picked what you wanted. They had plenty in the freezer – lobster tails too. When we heard they were Maine tails, was so hard to resist, but I’d gotten enough fish and shrimp for five meals and our freezer was near bursting.

seafood in Georgetown

The real fresh seafood deal.

Found a bakery; it was that and more. Wine, frozen meats and veggies, hors d’ouvres, cheese and a luscious selection of cakes… napkin to wipe the drool please.
We briefly shared the inside of the face dock with a Krogen 44; chatting up the owner in the hopes of a tour was out of the question. Tonight was finish those darn tax returns and get them filed. We did it and what a relief to have that chore out of the way. Guess that leaves room to continue on those dinghy chaps.

A weather wait in Beaufort, SC

Beaufort SC home

Carriage tour in Beaufort near waterfront

Spent 3 nights in bea-u-ti-ful Beaufort, SC.   This is our third multiple day marina stop and I think this kind of wild spending behavior will need to end soon- or so I fear. Twice, bad weather has kept us an additional night, but really that’s not so bad. A dock is secure and you generally have no worries about dragging; either you or another unlucky boat into you!  Beaufort is a good stop. Plenty of historic homes and enough eateries for any taste and budget- oh yes shops too, but I hardly notice those anymore. Sigh.
The trip from Savannah was easy with delightful sights for our eyes which confirmed my suspicion about the northern section of the ICW in Georgia being much nicer than its southern bad brother. Shortly after leaving Thunderbolt, two picturesque cemeteries greeted us as they sat on small bluffs overlooking the river. The dolphins were especially active and it was easy to spot mama and baby as they swam close together, often not far from the boat.
We like to arrive at marinas as early as possible to get the most for our money. A typical stay is only one night, so we want time for chores and fun stuff. On average, dockage is $1.75/ft, plus electric at roughly $5. Russ docked us (bea-u-ti-fully) alongside the face dock (a long dock that is out in front, usually contains the dockmaster’s office, fuel pumps and a pump out station.) We don’t fit into many slips and many popular marinas have these long face docks because it’s much easier for the transients/cruisers to come and go.
Several boats pulled in the same day we did; two monohulls who I have dubbed the Green Team (Patience and Midori) we’d seen several times since leaving Vero Beach on March 21, another one who was sort of travelling with them and a trawler who seemed to know the mono-folks.  We got to meet everyone when Patience invited the group to their boat for drinks and story hour (or two) and we reciprocated the next night on Ortolan.  Were long overdue for a crowd aboard and we were delighted to give tours and receive the ooohs and aaahs. Some people have never been on a catamaran, so I understand the curiosity. I think I’ve only been on a few monohulls myself.
This easy meet another boat, invite them to your boat or they to yours, show off your boats and in our case plenty of Q&A, happens so naturally that you forget it’s not like that with land folk. No matter what type of boat, or where people hail from, you can find common ground in an instant. Being new cruisers we listen and take mental notes about places to seek out and ones to avoid. Have to admit we also smile inwardly at the going aground tales, but we hope to remain vigilant with just enough wariness to keep us from that fate. If we did ever become badly aground, at least we wouldn’t heel over at some precarious degree, with fear that the rising water might find its way over the gunwales. Probably would simply have ruined our props and/or rudders!