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River Dunes Disappoints

Poor wi-fi; crappy – at 42% we could not even get on-line- and such was the lament of several other boats we spoke with. Mostly we were annoyed that we were getting the run-around about the wi-fi. AT&T 3G- no- not that either, although Verizon was OK. Choke, we were cut off- OMG how could we function what would we do??? Take the loaner car into Historic Oriental for provisions. Why do we say “groceries” on land and “provisions” on the water?  Either way, you know what I’m talking about.  We called Benj while in town; but no word yet on his study abroad.

During off-season the restaurant, which resembles a yacht club, only serves dinner on Saturday. Wed- Friday they do a fixed price one entrée buffet meal for $12; wine, beer and dessert extra. Nothing special; good company and the usual cruiser talk made for a nice evening.

On Monday we received the OK to move south prior to Nov 1 and fortunately Tuesday was going to be a good day to cross Pamlico Sound. Seas 2-3 ft with north winds 10-20; sails up here we come!  Getting caught with more sail than conditions or our comfort level permits, is worth avoiding, so when the forecast indicates more wind than 15mph we plan for more, just in case. Entered the Sound with a reef in the main, unfurled the jib and sailed along beautifully at 9 mph for 3 ½ hours. Then of course, the wind died down, we shook out the reef and shortly found ourselves motoring with no sails. Better to have reefed and not need it than need to reef- in my book. Along the way we enjoyed one of our favorite sites- dolphins having fun nearby. Spent a calm night near Swanquarter Island; a little marshy piece on the north shore. No swans in sight though.

DOLPHINS AT OUR BOW EN ROUTE TO SWANQUARTER ISLAND

River Dunes was getting plenty of good press; other cruisers spoke highly and it had 36 reviews on ActiveCaptain. A gorgeous marina that was to be part of a HUGE planned community… the economy halted development and now the huge billboards and some pretty buildings sit waiting for a brighter day. Pool, cabana, workout room, lovely grounds, screened-in porches, great floating docks- all at $1.50/ft. Not bad if you don’t need wi-fi, AT&T cell, cable or a restaurant. Out in the middle of almost nowhere, the basin is well protected and easy to enter. Russ says “4 stars”, – ok.

A TWILIGHT ZONE-ESQUE FEEL TO RIVER DUNES

Thursday we met a fan. George make the long trek out from Raleigh to get a firsthand look at a “being lived on” Maine Cat. Russ gave the grand tour while I finished up my muffin baking. George treated us to lunch in town and we shared the ride with Ringo, his wife’s beautiful therapy dog. We happily answered a slew of insightful queries. George hopes to acquire a shared ownership in a catamaran; liking MC 41 very much. No matter which boat he and his wife decide on (a few years from now), we wish them happy days and fun on the water.

We also got a tour aboard a 46’ Hunter bound for St. Thomas. We rarely get to see any monohulls (inside that is) and this was a treat. Beam-y at 14’, it had all the creature comforts including two recliners!

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We return to Roanoke Island

The Lost Colony, the name given to the 117 men, women and children who sailed from Plymouth, England and attempted to settle on Roanoke Island, only to vanish two years later, is still lost. We returned to the anchorage at Manteo to find that Lost Colony; I mean why else would anyone spend more than a few days here?  oooh, unfair that, but it sounded good.

Before I delve into our Manteo, NC (primary town on Roanoke Island) adventures let me step back to complete a couple of tales; one that still had a bit more life in it and another related to the Shannon 53 we’d met at Pungo Ferry.  Moon Tide squeezed under the bad bridge,their 2 ft VHF antenna twanging as it hit each girder- boing!  We raised our anchor and slid under with what should have been 14” to spare, but wouldn’t want to bet on it. The board showed 64 1/2 ft . Golden Eye began their day earlier and as they’d already gone under the bridge a few times, had no trouble. They’d anchored for the fishing!

MOON TIDE SQUEAKS UNDER THE PUNGO FERRY BRIDGE

Sailing along the eastern of Albemarle Sound was possible in moderate winds and things got really interesting and a bit tense when the screacher needed to come in. A too short furl line didn’t help, but by the 5th try we got it wound up right by turning with the wind behind us. Managed to avoid the shallows –  phew.

Arrived, anchored and there was Moon Tide snug at the marina dock. Not following them, really.  In typical, friendly cruiser
style Carl and Chris invited us over; oh boy now I get to see a real sweet boat. She sure exceeded expectations. Gorgeous, with oodles of varnished wood, staterooms, two station fly-bridge, a clever recycling bin under the steps, hydraulic bilges (if you can even call them that), tastefully decorated- ah I see a few more rugs in Ortolan’s future-we are quite stark in comparison to most boats.  Enjoyed a couple hours of cruiser chat- people, places, events and getting to know each other. Carl mentioned that they’d seen s/v Golden Eye aground near G161- they’d apparently left a new red buoy on the LEFT instead of the RIGHT and went aground. Smile, chuckle. Filled our hosts in on the Golden Eye tale so they’d have a full appreciation. Carl explained how he’d hailed the boat on the radio- no answer,  then called out as they passed by to offer help. We came by an hour later and saw no sign of them; guess boat and crew managed to get free.

Monday night- hallelujah! We spot the lost colonists returning on the Elizabeth II.

ELIZABETH II RETURNS TO HER DOCK ON ROANOKE ISLAND

Jack and Kerry email us that Lats& Atts published a certain “Tale of Two Pirates” in the November issue. Our copy (maybe a check too?) is lounging in our Clinton box until we can send for our mail, but in the meantime we can go on-line in a few days and see it there.  Benj finds out tomorrow if he will head to Italy for the spring semester study abroad. So much good stuff; and more…but I’m not sharing yet.