A Homeland Welcoming

Finished the big trip preparations; dinghy with her extra strap, jacklines on cockpit roof, loose counter items stowed, rag towels handy and departed Treasure Cay anchorage basin around 9:30am.  Low wind still which ensured a calm transit using the Don’t Rock path to get past Whale Cay. The charted path through the shallow sand bar area is good for shallow draft boats only; the closer to high tide the better. We motored through around mid-tide, seeing depths mostly deeper than 5ft, but for a few seconds 4.5ft popped up on the display.  I looked back for one more beautiful water view and crossed my fingers that we’d have a pleasant crossing.

Until next time, the water and skies so blue

Until next time, the water and skies so blue, we leave Treasure Cay behind

We had enough wind to sail which became plenty of wind to sail which made us reef as we zoomed past Green Turtle, Spanish Cay and west out of the Sea of Abaco into the wider open Little Bahamas Bank.  One sight that surprised us was the 20+ boats (one a MC 30) heading east into the Abacos. Bahamas in spring is lovely if your home base and/or schedule permit.

Dinner, which I’d prepared earlier, was eaten in calm sailing as the wind had backed down a bit and by 7pm an engine was started to assist in keeping our speed over 5kts. By midnight Ortolan was again enjoying unassisted sailing. Russ managed to get a few hours sleep, but was too noisy for me until we began motoring again at 5:15am.

At one point during the dark of this cloudy moonless night we heard a crash of thunder and watched as the area ahead of us lit up like stadium lighting accompanied by cloud to ground bolts. Uh oh. Russ quickly switched on the chart plotter’s weather/precipitation screen; I refused to look. Let’s see, we are out on the water, the only vessel with a mast. One monohull was behind us earlier, but we lost sight of their lights hours ago. Needless to say, I was extremely concerned. The showers and T-storm skimmed passed just to our south, shooting down lightning bolts that were way too close for comfort.

By 9am Tuesday the wind had completed its shift to west and with that we dropped the main in 1-2 ft seas. Exchanged the Bahamas courtesy flag for the yellow quarantine flag. The captain was happy to hear we’d sailed nearly 15 of the 27 hours we traveled to reach the beginning of the Ft. Pierce inlet.

With an incoming tide and low wind, the inlet was a piece of cake. Last year we returned on a Sunday with so much local boat traffic that I was happy to have this return be on a weekday.  One tiny problem with being one of a very few boats flying the Q flag is that it becomes a red flag for Homeland Security; as in, “hey we want to stop these guys, they’re returning from the Bahamas.” Fortunately, the distance into Ft Pierce to the ICW turnoff is long enough so if you proceed slowly the visit ends before you have to turn. Three guys, one stays on their hot-shot vessel while two come on board. One of them asks if he can look around and proceeds to do so wearing gloves. The other guy checks our boat’s documentation paperwork and Russ’s driver’s license, then asks us all kinds of questions about where we were in the Bahamas, did we have visitors, did anyone approach us to buy drugs, etc. Of course, they also pose the obvious queries about weapons and drugs on board, even including prescription drugs; no, no and no. They were polite and decent and so I gave them the courtesy of asking if I could take their picture as they left; “just get my good side” says one. Well, I guess I did 🙂

The welcoming committee departs

The welcoming committee departs

Archer, Treasure, then???

A recurring theme this season, at least as far as the Bahamas are concerned, is one that finds us leaving earlier than planned. So with that thought in mind you won’t be surprised to hear that instead of a leisurely stop at Green Turtle Cay for several nights of docking and dining at the Bluff House to celebrate Russ’s birthday, we found ourselves back in Florida!

After concert day the weather was allowing several beautiful days to grace us with the ability to be, go and anchor anywhere before decisions had to be made. Tried in vain to remove lobsters from their hidey-holes one last time; if they think we won’t be back, that we are defeated- wrong! you clawless crustaceans!  Got a few tips from s/v Malolo, a Manta 40 who anchored near us in Fishers Bay; but luck plays a big part in this hunt. When one can only go down 8-10 ft it limits your hunting area.

The Fish Cays are correctly named: saw fish, no lobsters.

The Fish Cays are correctly named: saw fish, no lobsters.

I had to smile at one difference between this year and the past two. Before, if Russ met another boat and came back saying something like, “I invited them to stop by” I would have launched my 20 questions barrage then hustled around to tidy up and make the bed. This time- and mind you I get no credit for this improvement- I smile, say, “OK”, listen to the intel gathered while continuing my activity, giving no thought to having Ortolan look presentable should they pop over. Plus, in the two minutes it takes for them to head over, we can make the bed (straighten the comforter) and move stray shoes out of the way. So much easier on my nerves. 🙂

Archer Cay proved to be a scenic stop with a surprise sea bean find, rusty equipment settled in shallow water and a tiny basin with a handful of those speedy and shy green turtles.

Morning unfolds over Archer Cay

Morning unfolds over Archer Cay

Treasure Cay was a must stop. So hard to resist that long curved, magic dust sandy beach with beckoning sand bars and turquoise blue water. Nice too, that Coco Beach Bar makes a mean frozen leaded or unleaded smoothie.

Meeting a fishing vessel in the just wide enough channel into Treasure Cay basin

Meeting a fishing vessel in the just wide enough channel into Treasure Cay basin

Our enjoyment of these critters hasn't faded

Our enjoyment of these critters hasn’t faded

The next day had laundry as the top (long overdue) priority, then we’d mosey over to Green Turtle Cay on Tuesday via the Don’t Rock Passage to get past the dreaded Whale Cay. Any cut would be very passable with the low wind days we’d been enjoying and boats heading west (or east) through the Sea of Abaco had their pick of 3-4 ideal days to get past Whale Cay.

The Captain’s birthday and the first day of spring were ample reason to splurge on the dock and dine deal at the Bluff House. A rate of $1.50/ft would allow you to apply all your dining spending (not including gratuity) against your dockage. It’s a great deal if you plan to spend even minimally at the Jolly Roger Bistro. A front was due to enter the area; perfect time to be snug at a dock.  This would be our first marina stay in the Bahamas this season. Plus, we hoped to meet up with some boat friends in Green Turtle and west.

Good weather checkers we be, Sunday early evening found us checking our sources and wondering what the heck happened to the favorable long-range weather forecast? If the forecast was to be believed; the more sources in agreement, the greater our trust; then we needed to cross Monday. Like the next day! Waiting for another window farther out than two weeks, was too long. Adios dock and dine, farewell cruiser friends, good-bye un-combed beaches; ‘til next year. Archer, Treasure… Vero Beach (Velcro already in place)