Homeward Bound: the Final Five

The sun sets along the Maryland shore as we approach the mouth of the Delaware

The sun sets along the Maryland shore as we approach the mouth of the Delaware

On the first day of travel my Captain said to me, “Honey we’ll have a following sea.” On the second day of travel my Captain said to me, “Ignore those swells, it’s just a following sea.” On the third day of travel my Captain said to me, “Ignore that thunderstorm, wind will squash the swells and we still have a following sea.” On the fourth day of travel my Captain said to me. “Ignore the pouring rain, no more T-storms, swells are all gone and we still have a following sea.” On the fifth day of travel my Captain said to me, “Five hours of sailing, no more raining, thunderstorms all gone, swells nonexistent and we still have a following sea!”
Kudos to you if you can sing that one. That about sums up our final five days; departing the Chesapeake just after 6am on Monday, arriving Sandy Hook, NJ at 6pm Tuesday and taking three days to land back in Deep River. In between we experienced calm, boring, exciting, tense, heart-pounding, happy, and exhilarating moments that made for a memorable end to our fourth cruising year.
The majority of the 241nm trip from Cape Charles to Sandy Hook was a motor-sail thanks to not quite enough wind too close behind us for us to sail at the required average speed to arrive before dark. We really wanted to arrive by 6:30pm to spend time with Makai. So except for a 4 ½ hr period Monday late afternoon, we either motor-sailed or motored using two engines. Sleeping was easy and while we didn’t do “watches” we both managed to get more sleep than usual. The boats during the night were well-behaved and we never spotted any commercial fishing trawlers. The glow that is Atlantic City appeared long before we ever got close. The best part of this trip north is the short night; dark was present between 9pm and 4:15am, barely enough time to get acclimated to it.

To pass the time I kept tracking of stuff in the water and here is what I counted during daylight hours: 4 dolphin sightings, 1 dead bird, 1 baby bottle, 11 balloons and 2 “others” (undetermined)

Several motor yachts passed us throughout the trip but not until New Jersey (closer to shore helps) did we see other sailing vessels heading north. Many leave from Cape May or Atlantic City and by 8pm several had joined those already anchored at Sandy Hook.
A couple of hours before reaching the Sandy Hook Channel, marine warnings came up for thunderstorms, “capable of producing winds over 30kts, hail and cloud to ground lightning.” Vessels should seek safe harbor.” Sure, we’ll just zoom right in. We’d been watching the approach on the chart plotter; in navigation mode the weather radar (colored blobs showing rain, etc) is overlaid so you can see it easily. The wind had died to 8kts so we dropped the main and began motoring using both engines. Could we get in and anchored in time? Probably not, but we’ll see how it goes.
Who needs a report or delayed radar when you can see exactly what’s happening up ahead? By some miracle (me having used up every prayer and promise in my favor bank) the worst of what was nearby, passed just north of Sandy Hook. The wind kicked up to 24kts for a spell, shifted 180 degrees, the sky darkened but, sorry for the cliche, light shown at the end of the tunnel. By 6pm we’d dropped the hook next to s/v Makai who was anchored near the Coast Guard Station along with four others.

Once the light showers ended, Eric zoomed over to pick us up and get his long-awaited tour of Ortolan. Jackie prepared dinner for us and what a treat to enjoy someone else’s cooking! The protein was Mahi that Roy had caught off Hatteras; delicious. Cut into chunks and sautéed; along with the Mahi Jackie prepared sides of kale, sundried tomatoes and onion; steamed rice, caprese and slaw. Being on Makai felt so much like the Leopard 36 we chartered in BVIs, only it’s larger and easily accommodates 5 people and dog Topaz. Since it’s a charter version, each person/couple has their own cabin and bathroom. Our “meeting up with boat friends” luck was pretty crappy this year, but we are so happy to have met up with those we did. Much thanks Makai for being part of our cruising time.

Wednesday morning as Makai prepares for the very short trip to Atlantic Highlands

Wednesday morning as Makai weighs anchor for the very short trip to Atlantic Highlands

 

Fort Wadsworth sits below the Verrazano Bridge, guarding the entrance to the Upper Bay

Fort Wadsworth sits below the Verrazano Bridge, guarding the entrance to the Upper Bay

 

Looking up at the underside of the Manhattan Bridge

Looking up at the underside of the Manhattan Bridge

This carousel sits between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Lots of kids waved as we passed

This carousel sits between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Lots of kids waved as we passed

 

Tower One fills in the skyline with the Brooklyn Bridge (or maybe it's the Manhattan) across the East River

One World Trade Center fills in the skyline with the Brooklyn Bridge (or maybe it’s the Manhattan) across the East River. At 1,776 ft tall, it’s the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere

And for the Hell Gate report- max speed 10.4 kts because although we were there near maximum flood (current with us heading toward LIS) it wasn’t as strong as other times. A fun ride and since we’d have the current against us by the time we entered LIS, any help is appreciated.

A very scenic cove at Short Beach (Branford) made up for Bridgeport

A very scenic cove at Short Beach (Branford/East Haven) made up for Bridgeport

 

Got a great view of the Thimble Islands (Branford/Guilford line) as we sailed near shore on Friday

Got a great view of the Thimble Islands (Branford/Guilford line) as we sailed near shore on Friday

I’d like to know how often any forecast for LIS weather is even close to accurate. When the rain stopped we decided to leave our Bridgeport anchorage and chose Short Beach as a perfect spot. The wind was to be enough to sail the few late afternoon hours, but we only managed 1 1/2 hours in a 3 1/2 hour trip. Increased north winds at night never happened either but our spot offered great protection as well as scenic beauty.

As you know, good things come to those who wait and boy was it good! Friday’s forecast from a couple of days ago was saying 15-20kts of NW winds; perfect direction and boy would we fly with that much wind. Seas would be low (near the north shore, because LIS runs east to west) and off our stern. That morning as we got up, Russ checked three sources that all said NW 5-10; no sailing in that teeny bit of hanky wind. Again, who needs to read about the weather when you can hear it. As we cranked the engines you could hear the wind pick up and we raised the main asap, headed out the small cove and sailed well for several hours in the Sound before the wind backed down, forcing us to jibe a few times. The benefit of not being pressed for time is you can tack or jibe to keep sailing, rather than douse the sails and begin motoring.

The lighthouses at the Old Saybrook breakwater welcomed us at noon and even the Old Lyme Draw (Amtrak bridge) opened promptly; perfect timing on our part, not anything to do with Mr Grumpy bridge tender.

By 2pm Ms Ortolan was attached to the mooring we’d call home for the coming month. So much to do in that time before leaving for a two month cruise to Maine.

Thunderstorms have an upside

Mile marker 115 in the Alligator-Pungo Canal. Some states have these every five miles.

Mile marker 115 in the Alligator-Pungo Canal. Some states have these every five miles.

We are traveling north about one month later than the past three years. Noticeably warmth, with fewer windy days and other cruising boats but the delay puts us into the thunderstorm season. I mean, who wouldn’t want more thunder and lightning? Sigh. Cape Lookout was on our mind as was a detour through Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke and Manteo, but got scratched due to rain and TS forecasted over the coming few days along with 15-20kts wind.
Naturally, playing it safe improved the weather and we sped through North Carolina eager to avoid the “at least one crappy weather event” that always seems to occur somewhere between Oriental and Beaufort, NC. Wednesday would be our third 60+nm day in a row, taking us through the 20 mile-long Alligator-Pungo Canal, the Alligator River and its fickle swing bridge, then cross the Albemarle Sound. We happily accepted low winds that made for a pleasant day.

S/v Ruffian beats us by a length as we pour it on to make the opening, no thanks to the uncommunicative bridge tender

S/v Ruffian beats us by a length as we pour it on to make the opening, no thanks to the uncommunicative bridge tender

Tuesday night we got a taste of summer-time marsh bugs; but I guess this was just the scout pack. Wednesday as we got closer to shore and anchoring, the entire army and reinforcements swarmed us. Not mosquitoes thankfully, but 3 kinds of flying things; most were black, some tiny and almost clear and the others blind mosquitoes we guess. The temp had climbed to nearly 90 and on top of that thunderstorms were headed southeast. The outside was covered and of course we have plenty of small openings that can’t be plugged up.

Do they like us or are we being attacked? Ugh- not pleasant either way

Do they like us or are we being attacked? Ugh- not pleasant either way

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At the first dock where Russ helps s/v Sophia dock between us and power cat Dyad

So we did what we had to: retreat!! Started up the generator, ran the AC in one hull at a time and headed below for happy hour and dinner. Much of the evening and into early nighttime was a constant lightning show, minimal thunder, rain and when the front line passed over us, a 180 degree wind shift (we planned for the shift and the anchor held well). The wind kicked up whenever a blob came near, but I was relieved that we didn’t receive any direct hits of the thunder and lightning producing red and purple centers. As you might guess, our visiting insect army was not happy and those who did not perish (and are either glued to our hull, in our wet-dry vac or smushed in tiny pieces of paper towel) departed for who-knows-where.
Ah, bug and temperature relief all in one. Russ spent 10 mins vacuuming up the interior dead bodies the next morning as those without a sense of direction went the wrong way when the thunderstorms arrived.
Thursday and Friday nights would find us first at the free dock before the Great Bridge Bascule Bridge and then at the one after. Don’t ask.

Dinner at Chili's. That is our free appetizer for signing up for emailed specials

Dinner at Chili’s. That is our free appetizer for signing up for emailed specials

Sunset view of the lock at Great Bridge VA as seen from the free dock between the lock and bridge

Sunset view of the lock at Great Bridge VA as seen from the free dock between the lock and bridge

Tug and barge pass by after exiting the lock.

Tug and barge pass by after exiting the lock.

Saturday we moved all of 4 miles through the lock and one opening bridge, to Top Rack Marina to watch the lift truck move boats in and out and around. 🙂

We lead the pack of  seven boats in the lock. New pontoon owner was getting a lock transit demo

We lead the pack of seven boats in the lock. New pontoon owner was getting a lock transit demo

The good part of this place is an excellent diesel price, super-fast wi-fi and if you dine at the Amber Lantern Restaurant on-site, your dockage (only $1ft anyway) is free. Say no more. We needed water and fuel anyway before starting our offshore Monday morning and the wi-fi allowed us to update apps, photo stream and blog free and easy. The people in the pontoon boat behind us in the lock confirmed that the restaurant was excellent, which we knew from last spring’s stop. The showers are beautiful, spa quality and even if I hadn’t needed clean and styled hair (for my night out you know) I’d have used it anyway.
Sunday should find us anchored 38 miles away near Cape Charles; positioned for a quick exit out of the huge and busy harbor. Monday at not quite o-dark thirty we’d begin the 240nm offshore trip up to Sandy Hook, NJ, the longest single leg of our 2013-14 cruising year. S/v Makai, who we finally met in Staniel Cay, you may recall, was ahead of us at Cape May leaving for Sandy Hook on Monday also. Perhaps we’d both be anchored off the Coast Guard station Tuesday night. Stay tuned.