Hope Town on Elbow Cay

After the rain… We get one of these shots every year

What’s not to love about Hope Town? Pretty sure I’ve told you it all before, but I did take pictures because we spent Christmas on a mooring in the harbor. First though, the background info and timeline. Aren’t you surprised at the recent-ness of non-generator electricity and homes with phones?

Timeline:

  • 1697-1718 Piracy in Hope Town. Real high seas pirates, not the land sort!
  • 1783-85 Loyalists arrive. Wyannie Malone and three of children among the first settlers. The museum bears her name (check out the Ebb Tide gift shop attached to museum)
  • 1700s: Wrecking at its peak. (thinking Hope Town should be the sister city to Key West)
  • 1864: The lighthouse was built to save lives
  • 1900: Hope Town was home port for at least 200 vessels
  • 1933: A major hurricane decimated Hope Town leaving only three homes undamaged
  • 1960s: The vacation home era begins
  • 1974: Electricity arrives!

Head east from Marsh Harbour and there lies the well-known settlement of Hope Town, located on Elbow Cay so named for the bent arm look. The ferry from Marsh Harbour gets you and tons of workers there in 20 minutes. Elbow Cay is, at least from what we’ve seen, populated by vacationers and non- Bahamians, far more so than by native Bahamians (apprx 260 native residents). Roots go back to Lucayan, Indian, Spanish Slave Raider, pirate, British and Loyalists!

It’s a quaint, New England style village with colorful homes (mostly rentals), many with ocean views. Hope Town boasts a two-mile long walk-able beach. Where I found my first sea bean, although you don’t find many on that beach at all.

The harbour more recently seems to be the home for two manatees, which I’ve named Mabel and Manny.

Mabel greets us as we get tied up to the mooring. She heard the sound of fresh water dripping into the water as Russ rinsed off the steps

They tend to hang out at Lighthouse Marina, the very small marina near the harbour’s entrance. The marina sells fuel and water, the ferry drops off and picks up workers, one can use the washers and dryers for that fun laundry task and amuse yourself by watching the manatees.

The good life!

 

Not a remora- but what? This underside view was a surprise. Have seen remoras on nurse sharks- but not sure what this creature is.

 

On our way to dinner at Harbours Edge on Christmas Eve

 

Hope Town harbor- we are to the left “under the lighthouse. Harbours Edge restaurant on right

When the winds are light we head out of the harbour to run our watermaker and enjoy places like Tahiti Beach which is on Elbow Cay a few miles south of Hope Town Harbour.

Tahiti Beach- not much beach exposed at high tide

If you missed the posts about Man-O-War and Green Turtle… just go back a post or two to see their history and timelines. Next up after Hope Town is Marsh Harbour.

Man-O-War Cay

Green Turtle sits at the upper left corner. Man-O-War on the right edge, above Marsh Harbour

Just three and half miles north-east of Marsh Harbour lies the tranquil settlement of Man-O-War; tranquil no doubt thanks to being “dry”. The Dock ’n Dine Restaurant only recently began offering beer and wine with meals, and that’s it for booze on this small cay. MOW stretches two and a half miles and contains 350 residents.

The Loyalists, who moved from the U.S. during the War of Independence, founded this settlement of hard-working and dedicated boat builders. MOW, once the boat-building capital of the Bahamas, is still known for the craftsmanship that is kept alive by many of its residents. You can stop by Edwin’s Boatyard where there’s always interesting activity.

Many of the original clapboard houses still stand and the narrow streets are just wide enough for walkers and golf carts. Arrive via Albury’s Ferry or your own vessel; no airstrip here.

As with other cays and settlements in the Abacos, we’ve visited MOW several times over our six trips to the Bahamas. If you’d like photos of these places just use the Search feature. (guess I didn’t take any this visit or the prior!)

Timeline:

  • 1798: Man-O-War Cay settled and used for farming
  • 1876: First kerosene lamp
  • 1860s: Boat building started, and with it, sail making
  • 1921: Man-O-War school built
  • 1974: Electricity ran from the mainland using underwater cables- watch where you anchor!
  • 1987: Phones installed in private homes

During the settled spell which lasted more than two weeks, we anchored off Man-O-War. I think that’s where Russ first took apart the watermaker- actually the reversing valve in the Clark pump for those who want the details. The reversing valve is what makes a Spectra watermaker twice as efficient.

But no worries, we dinghied in to the dinghy dock at Man-O-War marina to enjoy lunch at Dock ‘n Dine where Ricardo says, “Please keep enjoying.” I love it. And we will!