Homeward Bound: the Final Five

The sun sets along the Maryland shore as we approach the mouth of the Delaware

The sun sets along the Maryland shore as we approach the mouth of the Delaware

On the first day of travel my Captain said to me, “Honey we’ll have a following sea.” On the second day of travel my Captain said to me, “Ignore those swells, it’s just a following sea.” On the third day of travel my Captain said to me, “Ignore that thunderstorm, wind will squash the swells and we still have a following sea.” On the fourth day of travel my Captain said to me. “Ignore the pouring rain, no more T-storms, swells are all gone and we still have a following sea.” On the fifth day of travel my Captain said to me, “Five hours of sailing, no more raining, thunderstorms all gone, swells nonexistent and we still have a following sea!”
Kudos to you if you can sing that one. That about sums up our final five days; departing the Chesapeake just after 6am on Monday, arriving Sandy Hook, NJ at 6pm Tuesday and taking three days to land back in Deep River. In between we experienced calm, boring, exciting, tense, heart-pounding, happy, and exhilarating moments that made for a memorable end to our fourth cruising year.
The majority of the 241nm trip from Cape Charles to Sandy Hook was a motor-sail thanks to not quite enough wind too close behind us for us to sail at the required average speed to arrive before dark. We really wanted to arrive by 6:30pm to spend time with Makai. So except for a 4 ½ hr period Monday late afternoon, we either motor-sailed or motored using two engines. Sleeping was easy and while we didn’t do “watches” we both managed to get more sleep than usual. The boats during the night were well-behaved and we never spotted any commercial fishing trawlers. The glow that is Atlantic City appeared long before we ever got close. The best part of this trip north is the short night; dark was present between 9pm and 4:15am, barely enough time to get acclimated to it.

To pass the time I kept tracking of stuff in the water and here is what I counted during daylight hours: 4 dolphin sightings, 1 dead bird, 1 baby bottle, 11 balloons and 2 “others” (undetermined)

Several motor yachts passed us throughout the trip but not until New Jersey (closer to shore helps) did we see other sailing vessels heading north. Many leave from Cape May or Atlantic City and by 8pm several had joined those already anchored at Sandy Hook.
A couple of hours before reaching the Sandy Hook Channel, marine warnings came up for thunderstorms, “capable of producing winds over 30kts, hail and cloud to ground lightning.” Vessels should seek safe harbor.” Sure, we’ll just zoom right in. We’d been watching the approach on the chart plotter; in navigation mode the weather radar (colored blobs showing rain, etc) is overlaid so you can see it easily. The wind had died to 8kts so we dropped the main and began motoring using both engines. Could we get in and anchored in time? Probably not, but we’ll see how it goes.
Who needs a report or delayed radar when you can see exactly what’s happening up ahead? By some miracle (me having used up every prayer and promise in my favor bank) the worst of what was nearby, passed just north of Sandy Hook. The wind kicked up to 24kts for a spell, shifted 180 degrees, the sky darkened but, sorry for the cliche, light shown at the end of the tunnel. By 6pm we’d dropped the hook next to s/v Makai who was anchored near the Coast Guard Station along with four others.

Once the light showers ended, Eric zoomed over to pick us up and get his long-awaited tour of Ortolan. Jackie prepared dinner for us and what a treat to enjoy someone else’s cooking! The protein was Mahi that Roy had caught off Hatteras; delicious. Cut into chunks and sautéed; along with the Mahi Jackie prepared sides of kale, sundried tomatoes and onion; steamed rice, caprese and slaw. Being on Makai felt so much like the Leopard 36 we chartered in BVIs, only it’s larger and easily accommodates 5 people and dog Topaz. Since it’s a charter version, each person/couple has their own cabin and bathroom. Our “meeting up with boat friends” luck was pretty crappy this year, but we are so happy to have met up with those we did. Much thanks Makai for being part of our cruising time.

Wednesday morning as Makai prepares for the very short trip to Atlantic Highlands

Wednesday morning as Makai weighs anchor for the very short trip to Atlantic Highlands

 

Fort Wadsworth sits below the Verrazano Bridge, guarding the entrance to the Upper Bay

Fort Wadsworth sits below the Verrazano Bridge, guarding the entrance to the Upper Bay

 

Looking up at the underside of the Manhattan Bridge

Looking up at the underside of the Manhattan Bridge

This carousel sits between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Lots of kids waved as we passed

This carousel sits between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Lots of kids waved as we passed

 

Tower One fills in the skyline with the Brooklyn Bridge (or maybe it's the Manhattan) across the East River

One World Trade Center fills in the skyline with the Brooklyn Bridge (or maybe it’s the Manhattan) across the East River. At 1,776 ft tall, it’s the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere

And for the Hell Gate report- max speed 10.4 kts because although we were there near maximum flood (current with us heading toward LIS) it wasn’t as strong as other times. A fun ride and since we’d have the current against us by the time we entered LIS, any help is appreciated.

A very scenic cove at Short Beach (Branford) made up for Bridgeport

A very scenic cove at Short Beach (Branford/East Haven) made up for Bridgeport

 

Got a great view of the Thimble Islands (Branford/Guilford line) as we sailed near shore on Friday

Got a great view of the Thimble Islands (Branford/Guilford line) as we sailed near shore on Friday

I’d like to know how often any forecast for LIS weather is even close to accurate. When the rain stopped we decided to leave our Bridgeport anchorage and chose Short Beach as a perfect spot. The wind was to be enough to sail the few late afternoon hours, but we only managed 1 1/2 hours in a 3 1/2 hour trip. Increased north winds at night never happened either but our spot offered great protection as well as scenic beauty.

As you know, good things come to those who wait and boy was it good! Friday’s forecast from a couple of days ago was saying 15-20kts of NW winds; perfect direction and boy would we fly with that much wind. Seas would be low (near the north shore, because LIS runs east to west) and off our stern. That morning as we got up, Russ checked three sources that all said NW 5-10; no sailing in that teeny bit of hanky wind. Again, who needs to read about the weather when you can hear it. As we cranked the engines you could hear the wind pick up and we raised the main asap, headed out the small cove and sailed well for several hours in the Sound before the wind backed down, forcing us to jibe a few times. The benefit of not being pressed for time is you can tack or jibe to keep sailing, rather than douse the sails and begin motoring.

The lighthouses at the Old Saybrook breakwater welcomed us at noon and even the Old Lyme Draw (Amtrak bridge) opened promptly; perfect timing on our part, not anything to do with Mr Grumpy bridge tender.

By 2pm Ms Ortolan was attached to the mooring we’d call home for the coming month. So much to do in that time before leaving for a two month cruise to Maine.

Lunch, lobster, laundry and laughter

Sailors aren't the only ones who delight in red sunsets

Sailors aren’t the only ones who delight in red sunsets

Our iSotherm freezer box thingy, better known as our faux-Engel or lately a P-o-S, has been making us a bit crazy with its inability to consistently regulate itself, often transforming into a massive power hog. Of course, this power hogging seems to happen at night when we can’t see that our house batteries have dropped below 12volts. We’ve tried setting it to Eco mode to conserve energy, but then it gets too warm. The last straw was when the ungrateful schemer put our behaving house freezer under its spell and we woke up to a low voltage house battery and a house freezer at 26 degrees that had been running for hours but not getting colder. Lately it hangs around 20-22 degrees which is acceptable for warmer water and air temps.

Fortunately the Russ-of-all-trades has a trick up his sleeve to nudge the house freezer into working properly and we think we’re good to go for another month or so. Cancel that- try only two days before it stopped at night again. The only answer for the faux-Engel is to consume all the food (can you say “have our son with us for 3 weeks?”) then switch to use it as a fridge; a mode that suits it much better. Or perhaps, as I think I’ve mentioned before, as a contribution to Davy Jones’s locker.  In this case L is for lucky we didn’t experience a major meltdown- the freezers, not us. Ha.

Monday we rode in style in Cort’s yet-to-be-named harbor taxi (little inside joke) to St Francis for lunch then over to Hamburger Beach/Big D’s/Monument to gaze upon the uncleared acreage; building permit pending.

Lots of visualization required. Lots are narrow but cross the island - harbor to ocean side

Lots of visualization required. Lots are narrow but cross the island – harbor to ocean side

The property is set back a couple hundred feet from the beach with a row of breezy Casuarinas offering limited camouflage. And would you be surprised to learn that the project is behind schedule?-by U.S. standards not Bahamian of course. A foundation was expected by now, but with no building permit just yet, the wheels churn very, very slowly. Maybe by next fall mon.

Later that afternoon we learned we’d be dining on lobster for lunch, but even one large tail can’t feed three so additional salads were prepared; not just by me!

Cort prepares fruit and yogurt salad, Russ bartends and I sautéed the parboiled lobster

Cort prepares fruit and yogurt salad, Russ bar tends and I sautéed the parboiled lobster

Lunch is served. Life is good.

Lunch is served. Life is good.

Wednesday would be the last day until Monday when we could easily and safely dinghy across the harbor without getting tossed about like salad with salt water dressing. Wednesday in George Town is propane day, when Clarence brings the truck over to Eddie’s Edgewater and the guys line up with empty tanks to be filled on the spot. (this isn’t the only way to do it just the easiest and perhaps most economical)

Over the past few days we’d been filling our water tanks, planning the last two trips today. We’d also purchased and dumped 15gals of diesel into our starboard tank (at $5.25/gal); as running the genset two-three times daily was sucking down the juice big time. Did I mention our power hog faux-Engel?

Met up with Cort at the market and soon we were driving north on Queen’s Highway on the left side of the road, the driver seated on the right. Way too weird.

Got the laundry started; not sure the last time I used machines without having to insert coins. Come lunch time we fell into our natural roles and managed to prepare tuna salad, spinach salad, fruit with yogurt (cheated- it was left over from Tues) and G&Ts in real glass. Sweet

Checking out the "camp house" plans, elevations, etc

Checking out the “camp house” plans, elevations, etc

Cardboard scale model of future camp-style house- front view

Cardboard scale model of future camp-style house- front view

An important order of business, seeing that Christmas is a week away, was to decorate and acquire a tree. This was an amazing event to watch unfold. Using items found inside or outside the house, a tree, complete with stand and tree skirt was erected within 30mins. The only purchase was the light set.

First- cut casuarinas boughs with machete found in closet

First: cut Casuarina boughs with machete found in closet

Create tree by sticking branches into upside down milk crate found in closet

Create tree by sticking branches into upside down milk crate found in closet

The branches wouldn’t stay upright very well, so we found a large plastic mixing bowl in the kitchen, filled it with moist sand. The crate fit snugly over it.

The side table was the perfect height- who needs the lamp?

The side table was the perfect height- who needs the lamp?

I found some sort of curtain in the linen closet for the tree skirt

I found some sort of curtain in the linen closet for the tree skirt

After this picture was taken Cort placed a few conch shells on the table at the base of the crate. Pretty good uh? Looks even better in real life- my iPhone doesn’t take the best quality photos.

A full load: laundry, water, meats in cooler, diesel and propane

A full load: laundry, water, meats in cooler, diesel and propane

Worked up an appetite after that strenuous tree raising so we headed a couple of miles north to a relatively new place, Prime Island Meats & Deli where they have stateside quality meats, salads, baked goods and deli meats.  You’d think we hadn’t seen U.S. meats in ages, rather a mere month. But this type of market is a rare find in the Bahamas. If I showed you a picture of the cuts of meat you find in nearly all Bahamas markets, you would understand. We snagged a piece of freshly made lasagna for $5, fresh sausage, and not frozen from prehistoric times boneless chicken breasts.  Cort scooped up a small frozen turkey for Christmas; wife and two grandkids arrive Sunday so he has been preparing.

Somehow we got back to the boat in our overloaded dinghy in calm seas (oh that harbor can get nasty) and felt very lucky to have a friend with a house, car and boat in George Town.

Thursday through Monday are forecast to be windy enough to keep us boat-bound much of the time. What better opportunity to bake, make ornaments and get a certain someone’s bed cleared off so he has a place to sleep come Monday night 🙂