We score big in Black Point

Black Point Sunset - Bahamas Defense vessel stands watch

Black Point Sunset – Bahamas Defense vessel stands watch

Hanging out at Staniel Cay, anchored reasonably close to shore allowed us to pick up Exuma Wifi from the boat. A better deal than  Warderick Wells at $10 for 250mb or 24 hours whichever comes first (pricey anyway uh?), we did all our online stuff and still didn’t use up the 250mb.

The forecast was pointing to a jump down to George Town Thursday and if we didn’t take that, the next opportunity was indeterminable. Most sailing craft want some north in the wind to reduce major pounding into the waves for 40 miles. The prevailing wind is generally E and ESE; ENE only pops up once in a while and sometimes it could be more wind than you want.

Before that we needed to attend to laundry and more importantly, score some of Lorraine’s mom’s coconut bread; manna from heaven. The trek to Black Point was an easy nine miles; ran the water maker since we couldn’t sail that angle. Only four boats in the large anchorage told us once again how early we are this year; just wait a few weeks!

Ida wasn’t around so we left our laundry at the machines and headed over to Adderley’s market – the backup place for tokens. But they only had dryer tokens. Ok then we’ll try her on VHF16- nope. Went to see Lorraine at the café and she said she’d call Ida at home for us 🙂 She greeted us with hugs; gee I guess we’ve become known regulars. Her mom had fresh out of the oven coconut bread which caused me to do a little happy dance; we’ll take two! The bread was still hot and the aroma filled the house. We chatted and told her that no one makes coconut bread like she does; not that she hasn’t heard that a million times.

Ida appeared and we began our three loads. Had the place to ourselves but Ida was chatty and remembered us from when we were at the airport for Benj’s flight out last January. She and her daughter were Nassau bound on the same small plane.

Benj, the multi-talented pilot, Ida and her daughter wait to board (Jan 2013)

Benj, the multi-talented pilot, Ida and her daughter wait to board (Jan 2013)

We learned her daughter is 19, her son is 22(?) and currently in France. They both sound like motivated young adults who take after their successful business owner parents. In addition to Rockside Laundry, Ida and her husband own Rockside Cottages overlooking the harbor.

The Laundromat is 11 years old now. Five of the washers finally need to be replaced. Ida shared some figures with us: each new one cost $700 in Miami, approx. $1,200 total freight cost plus import duty. If the machines were bought in Nassau the cost each would be $1,600 plus freight to Black Point. You do the math; she went to Miami and saved considerable even with her RT travel cost included. As we headed off with clean laundry, coconut bread and smiling faces, Ida asked us to say “hello” to her cousin (I think) who is the Doctor of Libations at Peace & Plenty (P&P) Resort in George Town. Of course!

Wednesday morning, after a breakfast of- can you guess? Yes! Coconut bread French toast- sigh- we mostly-sailed 13 nm further down the Exuma chain to a spot off the beach at Big Farmers. If the forecast held up, Thurs would find us in Exuma Sound bound for George Town, Elizabeth Harbor and all that goes with being in that larger-than-life area.

Beaufort, SC to St Augustine, FL

Our last time in Beaufort (are you saying Bew-fort in your head?) was over a year ago. With only a light breeze by afternoon we anchored easily in the anchorage in 23ft! The anchorage lies around the outside of the channel’s curve so it’s deeper there. With north wind protection our only worry would be how the boats would move around during slack tide.  A boat we’d seen on and off since Wrightsville Beach was there already. S/v Wonderful Life (San Francisco) is traveling with Mom, Dad and two kids. You won’t be surprised to know their dinghy is “It’s a”.

The shops and eateries in town looked healthy and busy with a few new additions since our last visit.

The world's teeniest and cutest library

The world’s teeniest and cutest library

Dinner was at Panini’s and boy it was delish!  I chose Mediterranean Shrimp and Grits; the almost sweet flavor of the delicate sauce was very unique and I couldn’t determine exactly what it tasted like- was just darn good. Russ chose a Pork Roulade over sautéed veggies and even had enough for a lunch doggy bag.

Looking out over the anchorage- we're too far back to see

Looking out over the anchorage- we’re too far back to see

The weather checking consumed a bit of our time that evening and we decided to believe the NE 10-15 forecast touted by three services.The 163nm overnight would take 25- 27 hours depending on our speed. Passage Weather showed “something” farther out in the Atlantic that was sending in large swells but the farther south we’d get, they would lessen a bit. I stomped and pouted about using Port Royal channel to head out; it is long- and I mean long and rollers are always present in some degree. Did it once, didn’t need to do it again.

So we did because it was a safer, deeper, better marked channel compared to Calibogue, the next spot to exit out.  We ended up sailing more than 16 hours of the 25-hour trip, motor-sailing the first two hours getting out and one-engine motoring for about 6 hours after midnight; much better than we expected thanks to the wind 13-18kts Saturday and a healthy 11-15kts at night. The swells were generous, at least 5 feet, but sources we checked later indicated more.

The wind and swells calmed down measurably by the time we were within a few hours of the St Augustine inlet; a just-dredged (again) Class C inlet. No genius mind needed to know that C is not as good as A! We left the main up for stability and had to throttle back on the engines to keep under 8kts as went came in. Was real fun when three monohulls abreast coming out negotiated around us; later heard a race was taking place just past the sea buoy – it was Sunday after all.

Ok, now to get the main down before the bridge opening at 12:30- had plenty (too much) of time for that. Phew all set. Then we see s/v Tyler J looking like they plan to anchor- where?  in the ICW? We’d seen them on AIS coming from offshore too. A bunch of us pass through at 12:30 and so does Tyler J. We’d already called the marina and had our mooring assignment; M57. We have the map so we know where to find it in the large field. As we head into the field, Russ says to keep an eye on Tyler J; they seemed uninformed although we’d heard another boat communicating with them. Sure enough as we approach M57, I am at the bow with the boat hook, we see bad boy coming toward it from the opposite direction.  At first I’m confused- oh, he really plans to take our ball! I holler over that we were assigned that ball as the boat slides against the mooring and over it, spilling the pennant in the water (these balls have a collar that can hold the pennant). The current runs strong through here and one mistake can set off a chain reaction. Took me two tries to grab the pennant but we got ourselves secured without further incident. Our happy faces showed when the marina launch came by and escorted Tyler J to a mooring on the outside row further back.

A good night’s sleep and we’d be ready for town on Monday.