A Particular Harbor

Menemsha (the name derives from an old coastal Native American word “Still Water”) is a special place; we’ve always loved it and wished for more time in this fishing harbor a bit more bustling than Cuttyhunk. Menemsha is located up-island on MV’s north side just a few miles from the western tip of the island. It is known for affording fabulous views of beautiful sunsets, lobster and fish markets to satisfy your every New England seafood desire, several shops to tempt you and beaches to sunbathe on or to beachcomb. Four hours was all our drooling, eager selves needed to cover all those bases; with temps in the low 70s we opted for beach combing rather than sun bathing.

One of two seafood markets by the docks in the harbor

One of two seafood markets by the docks in the harbor

If you take my picture I won't buy out the store

If you take my picture I won’t buy out the store

The harbor is postage stamp size with prime dock space for 15 power boats and 2 mooring balls for sailing vessels only (expect rafting). Additional dock space mid-harbor is available for unlucky power boats or ones who’d rather not have their every move and sound witnessed by neighbors and passersby. Larger yachts can dock parallel along the opposite side of that dock. Outside the harbor, just off the beach are additional mooring balls but they’d be a lousy choice if the wind is more than 12kts from any direction other than south. Another option is to anchor off the beach; the holding is very good in coarse sand and you can be in 10ft easily. We anchored of course.  Low wind for the afternoon and night made this the perfect time to visit Menemsha; who knows what the conditions would be when returning from Oak Bluffs farther east.

The essential bike ferry- so you can bike your hearts out across MV

The essential bike ferry- so you can bike your hearts out all across MV

Looking down the long dock toward the harbor entrance

Looking down the long dock toward the harbor entrance

After assisting Menemsha Blues with their end-of-summer sale and acquiring lobsters to steam aboard as well as a dozen local oysters to shuck we headed over to the beach. Happy me that the sea glass fairy (we are near Gay Head after all!) dropped a few teeny trinkets on her way to some other place; one of them a pea-sized piece of red sea glass.  Red is rare and this is my only piece.

Russ wanted to explore further up into Menemsha’s harbor and check out the decaying remains of Orca, the shark fighting vessel of Jaws fame. Orca was showing her age and neglect back in 2007 when we last stopped at Menemsha on Island Bound, our 320 SeaRay. After the movie was filmed she was brought to the harbor to rest on her laurels and whatever other parts, on the sandy flat long the harbor’s edge. Russ did not have any photo taking device with him I am sorry to say. While he was away I updated the blog and our “where-is” Google map.  I did not notice the large yacht until Russ shouted from the dinghy, “who’s the yacht?” Well, let’s check. I go to the chart plotter, touch the green AIS triangle and up pops this screen of info.

Who owns this? Let's just say that tonight Menemsha is Margaritaville

Who owns this? Let’s just say that tonight Menemsha is Margaritaville

Wide-eyed, we both realize at the same moment, just who owns that (cornflower) blue-hulled yacht. Happy hour and oysters can wait; we need to find out if he might actually be aboard. Umm, let’s see. Done with US concert tour, not heading to Paris until Sept 26. Yep, could be chillin’ out in this particular harbor. No guarantees because the yacht can be chartered, but still quite likely and this is second-home territory.  The 32’ center console tender zoomed in and back out to the mother ship. We watched expectantly as the yacht made her way into the harbor.

Continental Drifter heads for the breakwater entrance to Menemsha

Continental Drifter heads for the breakwater entrance to Menemsha

Oh ya, she’s going to tie up alongside the dock and we’ll dinghy in for some close-ups.

Continental Drifter III prepares to dock

Continental Drifter III prepares to dock

For some reason, the fenders had not been placed on the correct side and had to be laboriously moved to the yacht’s port side before she could snug up to the dock. Several onlookers stood by on the dock while others at the “prime” docks across the way stood on their bows, some with visual aids.

Hey big fender-won't you come on over?

Hey big fender-won’t you come on over?

Just think, Buffet and crew are here most likely for much the same reasons we are. To taste the saltiness of Menemsha and enjoy lobster, oysters and sunsets. For us just one night; the September winds would be present again for a couple of days so we’d kick it up a notch and head for more vibe in Oak Bluffs.

Stonington- aka Hope Springs

View of Watch Hill, RI from our anchorage off Napatree Beach

View of Watch Hill, RI from our anchorage off Napatree Beach

With a wind shift to the NW due Wednesday we opted to head over to Stonington Harbor later on Tuesday after the fog lifted and the rain stopped. The wind so far had been a very agreeable mostly 3-10kts but Wed’s shift to NW was to bring 15-20kts and Napatree offered noting but fetch from that direction.  Stonington Harbor is just around the corner and in 35 mins we were anchored in the tiny anchorage set between two mooring fields. With room for maybe 5 well-placed boats, this space is a token anchorage; heck we and one other boat were quite happy to have it and not pay $45/night for a mooring.

Looking out to a small slice of the mooring-packed harbor from atop the lighthouse museum

Looking out to a small slice of the mooring-packed harbor from atop the lighthouse museum

A bazillion sailing craft in the harbor, plenty of Optis and other small sailing vessels out every day joy sailing and racing makes for fine scenery against the backdrop of lovely historic homes.

A fine day in the harbor for small craft sailing

A fine day in the harbor for small craft sailing

Most of the Hope Springs in-town scenes were filmed in Stonington along Water Street. Noah’s was turned into the Nor’easter Diner, the street wetted to enhance the look and the one-way traffic switched around “because it filmed better that way.”

Is it Noah's or Nor'easter Diner?

Is it Noah’s or Nor’easter Diner?

The architect office across the street acquired the “marriage counseling” sign and hung it below theirs; making for a puzzling display.

A very diverse firm- architects and marriage counseling a la Hope Springs

A very diverse firm- architects and marriage counseling a la Hope Springs

Twice a week in season, the historical society offers a walking tour of the “boro.” We were in town, the weather was beautiful, so why not? We learned more about local history, town characters and homes than I can regurgitate here (or remember).

Can you decipher this?

Can you decipher this?

One of numerous beautifully landscaped properties in the boro.

One of numerous beautifully landscaped properties in the boro.

Stonington is home to the last remaining commercial fishing fleet in Connecticut. Over near the commercial docks you will find the very unique Stonington Seafood Harvesters, Inc. The small building with the red awning at 4 High St offers self-serve cases of frozen-aboard-ship fish, scallops, shrimp and stuffies. The BI swordfish was so delicious that we went back for more the next day.

One of two price signs. You can pay by credit card, check or cash. Easy.

One of two price signs. You can pay by credit card, check or cash. Easy.

One of the boro's commercial fishing fleet heads out

One of the boro’s commercial fishing fleet heads out. Watch Hill lighthouse in background.

Always on the lookout for a decent bakery we spied a sign for Zest housed over in the old velvet factory.

Zest Bakery at the old Velvet Factory

Zest Bakery at the old Velvet Factory- their muffins were super-sized & delicious

In 1996 the 104-year-old American Velvet Factory announced it was forced to close its doors and move operations to Virginia within two years. Reborn, as old factories often are (thank goodness) into a haven for artists, a glass blower, a potter and a niche bakery the factory is clean and expansive. You can almost feel the velvet.

Overhead photo of the factory- note the multi-peaked roof that brings in more light

Overhead photo of the factory- note the multi-peaked roof that brings in more light

Our ½ mile walk took us over the Amtrak tracks; how thoughtful to provide covered walkways where the road was sliced to make way for the tracks.

A train came along as we walked overhead

A train came along as we walked overhead

Thursday’s lunch found us at Skipper’s Dock; let me recommend the Blood Orange Margarita. Aphrodite was tied up at the dock awaiting her passengers for the return trip to Watch Hill. I correctly picked the restaurant’s patrons who would be returning. Perhaps the  perfect, yet casual attire, even for those under 15, as well as many lobster shells gave them away. We had a few minutes to get closer before she took off; I mean who wouldn’t want to get an eyeful not to mention a ride in this gleaming beauty.

Aphrodite leaving the dock, heading back to Watch Hill

Aphrodite leaving the dock, heading back to Watch Hill

Do we stay or go? What to do with weather so wonderful; almost anything you want. Our next stop was going to be Mystic but the Brewer’s marina there told us they don’t take catamarans (well!). Another marina had moorings at $1.50/ft; ouch. We could pay that at Shelter Island. Anchoring opportunities were limited; however, we wanted to make a move Friday and where there’s a will (named Russ) there’s a way. Stay tuned.