Jeepin’ Around the Block

Every island, no matter the latitude, possess an aura and allure that the mainland can’t quite compete with. Block is no exception; exploration, recreation, entertainment (even in the anchorage), beaches, shopping, food of all kinds- all to tempt you and keep you coming back for more. Over the years we’ve seen quite a bit of the island on foot, bike or taxi and this time I really wanted to get back out to the lighthouses and see more of the island. Block covers approx. 11 sq miles or 7,000 acres (including the Great Salt Pond); roughly half the land is preserved space. It’s easy to forget that Block Island offers more than a shop-filled main street that looks out over the ocean with unobstructed views to the horizon.

Water St in Old Harbor- Surf Hotel in background

Water St in Old Harbor- Surf Hotel in background

Shopping was not on my list and since I was obviously ill :-), Russ agreed to rent a Jeep for our island tour ( I also played the “birthday week” card). – side and rear panels removed. We began by driving up Corn Neck Rd to the North Light.

Hey-Going my way?

Hey-Going my way?

Our route is darkened, black dots show our stops

Our route is darkened, black dots show our stops

North Light: a 1/2 mile walk from the parking lot and not open during the week.

North Light: a 1/2 mile walk from the parking lot and not open during the week.

An event is recorded - for us to wonder and for nature to reclaim one day

An event is recorded – for us to wonder and for nature to reclaim one day

The Sacred Labyrinth

The Sacred Labyrinth

A display of labyrinth-related items including a journal kept in the box

A display of labyrinth-related items including a journal kept in the box on the lower shelf

The sacred labyrinth is made from small stones  and has a beautiful view of the North Light and Sachem Pond. A single winding path leads to the center and back out. Walking the labyrinth is a universal ritual that has remained unchanged for thousands of years. Often believed to heal body and soul; I must agree, as simply being near it cured me of my no-shopping illness.

We skipped The Maze, but later read it is a “must-do”.

We zoomed south past the beaches on Corn Neck Rd, fortified ourselves with a quick outdoor lunch and a T-shirt purchase for Russ ( see? bet he’s glad I got cured), then headed up Spring St toward the Southeast Lighthouse and the breathtaking Mohegan Bluffs.

Looking at Southeast Light from the edge of the bluff

Looking at Southeast Light from the edge of the bluff

A lighthouse on the move; in 1994 it was moved back about 500ft as constant bluff erosion was going to eventually topple this grand structure into the rocky shore below.

Looking down the more than 120 steps to the beach at Mohegan Bluffs

Looking down the more than 120 steps to the beach at Mohegan Bluffs

Just past the lighthouse is access to the beach far below. At one time the steps ended right at the beach but storms destroyed the lowest section and someone must have said, “why bother to replace it, people can use a rope.” I stayed on the landing with the camera and Russ hit the beach for close-ups on the field of cairns piled everywhere. Forget bluffs, this was more like Dune. Free transport to a sci-fi planet.

Russ makes the final descent to the beach

Russ makes the final descent to the beach

 Cairns piled across the beach

Cairns piled across the beach

Russ snaps close-ups with the trusty iPhone

Russ snaps close-ups with the trusty iPhone

Close-up of a tall one

Close-up of a tall one

A balancing cross cairn

A balancing cross cairn

Fresh Pond as seen from Greenway path

Fresh Pond as seen from Greenway path

The island contains several greenways and we walked part of one after “escape from planet cairn”.  As we traipsed along through the narrow swath of path through the fields, I began feeling sleepy, sleepy , oh the poppies, so sleepy.

What, not poppies?

What, not poppies?

and this isn't the wizard?

and this isn’t the wizard?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sign by the seasonal Coast Guard station at the entrance to New Harbor

Sign by the seasonal Coast Guard station at the entrance to New Harbor

One sign that is hardly needed is one pointing to the beach; from anywhere on the island you don’t have to walk far to find a great beach. With enough time you can try them all, each is unique, but none had many shells and even less sea glass.

Sweet Carolina Beach

Thanks to the extra wine I try to consume on a regular basis, I’m able to find the positive in most tough situations. If nothing else, that sure sounds good I think.  Carolina Beach is 12nm south of Wrightsville Beach and seems to be the anchorage less stopped at by cruisers. That includes us, as this stop would be our first. About a year ago the town put in 10 mooring balls at $20 per night. Pricey when compared to Florida and no services except a well protected area. Just before the mooring balls remains space to anchor and that we did as the winds were to be next to nothing Tues night and Wed.

Carolina Beach- looking north from the anchorage toward the ICW

Carolina Beach- looking north from the anchorage toward the ICW

First, a few words about the bridge.  For a myriad of reasons the number of sailing vessels drops off considerably after Florida. Each day they became scarcer, dropping like flies with each state. Naturally we hoped to not be the only tall mast dealing with the Snows Cut bridge, but it wasn’t looking good. Then a mast appears behind us as we begin to head up the Cape Fear River, and they pass us because we are going slow with the current against us and trying to arrive no earlier than 5:30. Looks promising.

Looking back as we head up the Cape Fear River

Looking back as we head up the Cape Fear River

Another mast comes along, this one also has AIS and they call the first vessel. #1 says they only need 61ft and will go right through but will report back. #2 calls us and we learn they need 63ft to our 62 1/2ft. “Hey,” says Russ, “you go first!”  The tricky part of this is figuring out the tide. Between the tide station on the river side and the one on the Atlantic side; which one should be used? Wouldn’t things be easier if tide info was provided right at the bridge?  Oh, but what fun would that be?  Boat #2 says he got info from a marina that using the “other” side for tide info, that is the Atlantic side, is best. We discussed and agreed the more conservative approach would be to average the two since the river tide was an hour later. We ended up anchoring for over an hour to pass under close to low tide and boat #2 did the same, only they upped anchor before we did. Oh that clever Captain Russ. Judging space between the mast top including all the gizmos up there is not so easy.  I watched with our trusty spyglass and thought boat #2 had a solid foot to spare and Russ thought we had at least that much. I know that installing a height board to show the temporary height clearance for the bridge would ruin the fun, but geeze. Another boat passed by while we anchored , but they were stopping at the State Park marina a stone’s throw before the bridge and would go under at the morning’s first low.  We will not even delve into whether or not a jump outside was an option to get past this nonsense.

A front was forecast to arrive late Friday and we debated staying here or getting up to Beaufort Thursday and anchoring in another creek on Friday.  A potential motor-sail from Wrightsville Beach to Beaufort could be had Thursday, saving us from 3 scheduled bridges and all that goes with it. Such dilemma, but moving ahead won out and so we spent ¾ day enjoying Carolina Beach before  heading up to Wrightsville for dinner and staging to jump outside.

All the way down in the corner are floating docks for dinghies and boats under 26ft. We were the only dinghy. This time of year is not quite in season and many shops are only open Friday- Sunday. We started getting very excited at the mention of Britts Doughnuts located near the boardwalk. ActiveCaptain reviews mentioned it and when Russ checked Yelp and Travelocity, wow did this place sound like the makers of a doughnut to die for. A business started in 1939- surely they’ve perfected that one doughnut which sounds like a cross between Krispy Kreme and a French cruller. Then we discovered that their hours were really odd, but who cares? Open on Wed they were not.

Britts- not open for us :-(

Britts- not open for us 😦

Instead we headed for Kate’s Pancake House and the most cheerful service this side of the Atlantic, not to mention a dozen different toppings for your pancakes or waffles, cream cheese stuffed and cinnamon roll French toast, omelets and more. Neither of us ate lunch.

Surfin' at Carolina Beach

Surfin’ at Carolina Beach

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I took advantage of the beautiful, no wind 73 degree day and read for a bit on the tramps, knowing this was the last time for lord knows how long. We checked out the beach, boardwalk and added to our provisions at the local market.

The beach! Carolina Beach, looking south.

The beach! Carolina Beach, looking south.


You know you're in a beach town when..

You know you’re in a beach town when..

Around 3pm we left for Wrightsville and dinner at a Baja Mex place recommended by another cruiser last year. Compared to Carolina, Wrightsville sports a younger crowd, not that we saw many folk at Carolina (but you can tell) and not quite the cross between Ft Myers Beach and Cape Cod of Carolina Beach, but a bit more going on there.

Wrightsville Beach- setting for "Message in a Bottle"

Wrightsville Beach- setting for “Message in a Bottle”