A Beach to Treasure 3/19- 3/21

I neglected to mention how we laid low for the Saturday venue at Nippers, but we did wander over Sunday afternoon to catch Sea n’ B do their own thing. Good music, smaller crowd- down a couple notches from Friday, and Saturday as well no doubt. Said farewell to our new friends (dirt dwellers is the cruiser term) and promised to meet up again next year. Laurie better send pics….

Grabbers has it all: bar, pool, beach, lodging, music, outdoor dining

We met up with Rick on Sojourner a Saint Francis 44(?) at Grabbers located at the head of Fishers Bay. Most of boats in the bay land their tenders on the beach there. We did the usual cruiser sharing of info thing and came away with useful info on Treasure Cay, our next stop, as well as a couple of IWC places. And talk about sailing, I thought we were doing a decent job, but Sojourner has us beat.  Newbies; room for improvement.

Treasure Cay’s claim to fame is its nearly 3 miles of beautiful beach and pristine shallow water edged by a wide band of white sand. It also boasts a well-known golf course and airport.  On the way from Guana Cay, we detoured to Cistern Cay for a possible snorkel, but it was a bust. Tuesday was Russ’s birthday so we said “let’s have dinner at Spinnakers.” Wrong. Treasure Cay Marina has 3 places to eat (not much else around) but not every place serves dinner every day and Spinnakers doesn’t even serve lunch. Soo………….. Tues is BBQ on the beach across the road, at Coco Bar. Sounded fine and we even ate lunch there after a beach walk so Russ could indulge in the frozen mango daiquiri we’d heard about from Sojourner. A thumbs up from the ancient mariner 🙂

The house special- booze in bottom, overflows when blender concoction poured in- yum!

Sun, sand, blue water. ahhhh

Good thing we enjoyed the first half of the day since the rain goddess was quite unhappy; mood swinging from a few sad tears to a full-blown down pour crying jag! We beat the showers after lunch, and then watched the clouds on radar trying to figure out what was going to happen when. Looked obvious our BBQ on the beach was going to end up a wash out, so we headed in to scrounge at the grocery. There we are at the checkout with our $6 Pepperidge Farm Coconut Cake. I look up; the wind is blowing and the rain is pelting down in buckets. Half the shoppers hang out for 15 mins by the door; even those with rain gear. Neither dry nor drenched we zoomed back to Ortolan.  Naturally, that was it for the rain and we could have gone to the beach BBQ for dinner.  I drizzled rum on the cake- we ARE in the Bahamas mon – and that made everything all better.

Wednesday was a beautiful day- figures- but we’ll take it. Even that lovely laundry chore did not mar the day. The small laundromat- sort of laundry-ette was clean and bright with a personable owner who will transfer and fold if you want.  A walk south along the beach toward the sand bar end netted 3 tiny sand dollars and a handful of pretty shells. Can you guess where we ate lunch?

Happy laundry lady Lori

A beach view from the deck at Coco Bar

At 4pm – an unheard of time to depart- we pulled up the anchor (right, the electric windlass did the work), managing not to crash into the boat who’d anchored right in front of us- because I smartly put the Captain at the helm. We needed to get a jump on Thursday’s sail to Man o’ War Cay in order to arrive in time to visit the museum which is open Thurs and Sat 11- 1pm. Knowing I’d be Ms Antsy Pants to get there on time, Russ smartly said we had to cut the distance.  The basin at Treasure Cay was nicely protected; once out in the Sea of Abaco we experienced a rough and choppy ride bucking the headwinds.  Motored out a few miles until we could turn 20 degrees to motor-sail. Spent the night in the calm waters behind Archers Cay, water maker doing its thing until 11pm. 9 times out of 10 we can’t make water underway – too many air bubbles (thanks to the daggerboards) push into the water maker’s thru-hull intake and it can’t do its job. We’ll fix that by re-locating the intake to the proper spot.

Good times at Great Guana 3/14-3/18

Good-bye Pete’s and Little Harbor, hello Nipper’s and Fishers Bay.  Too late we heard from another cruiser, about a good sea bean beach by Pete’s and so we have a reason to return. The bean I picked up (from a large pile) in GT is a Sea Heart, one variety of hundreds? I am making these my new quest; won’t be easy. They are not found on every beach and while they can be found most any time of year, certain times are better than others.

Sailing was the order of the day as we headed north through the Sea of Abaco, past Marsh Harbor to Great Guana Cay, home of the infamous Nippers outdoor beach bar. The Barefoot Man appears free at Nippers twice every year and we happened (for once!!) to be in the right place at the right time. Guana Cay has two centrally located harbors for boats; Guana Cay Harbor- clever uh? and Fishers Bay next door- home to Dive Guana and Troy who unmercifully tossed us off a mooring five years ago with a windy “can’t trust the mooring” night. That is not quite true, but he did tell us that if the wind came up any more, we would have to leave the mooring. So that night we learned about being in the protected lee of Great Abaco Island and the next day Benj had another memorable day at Archer Cay.

A good spot to hang out- the fig tree Guana Cay

Back to 2012 as we anchor in Fisher’s Bay at the head of the pack; you know the mantra – like a good cat should. Our other mantra was “any fish today?” Milo came through for us (yes, the local fishermen deserve the credit) with fresh Mahi Mahi on Friday. The market is impressive; fresh cream and RediWip winked at us, saying “closer to Florida”.  A teeny cup of Hagen Daz Belgium Chocolate was our shared treat- damn it was good.

Milo's Yellow Shack: fish, fruit and trinkets

Heard that Endeavour power cat Side by Side was at the marina in the harbor next to us. We popped over to say hello and were graciously invited aboard. I could easily live on a power cat; oh some day when diesel prices drop- a lot.

Barefoot Man with Sea 'n B

Friday afternoon was the first of three appearances; two with the Barefoot Man (“Foot” if you are in the know) and backup musicians and a third with only Sea ‘n B, no Foot.  The Barefoot Man is not new to us; we began acquiring his music before our Abaco charter.  With a CD titled, Thong Gone Wrong; you get the idea. The weather made nice and everyone was happy, happy on Friday. Things started out a bit rough, with a long wait for lunch (biting my tongue again), then we stepped out of the dining area, on to the deck and were caught up in the irreverent, risqué music,  with people of all ages (more over 45 than not though) dancing, singing along and gulping Kaliks or frozen Nippers (rum punch).

Upper deck at Nippers

Laurie, Jeff, Russ, Lori- good times!

I went up to the top deck so Russ could take a picture of the crowd looking away from the “stage”, and met the nicest bunch of people. Several couples staying in a cottage practically next door befriended us and welcomed us into their group with open arms. We danced, sang, ogled the hunky guys and groaned at the old guys acting 20. No need to say more, the photos tell the story. We only had the iPhone. Some of the photos are snapshots from the movies Russ took. Check the picture book for more Nippers photos- coming soon.