It’s been 5 years since we visited Eleuthera, so time to head back & walk on their famous pink sand beaches.Crossing over from Staniel Cay is an easy 46 miles to Rock Sound near the southern end of Eleuthera.  Almost caught a fish on the way – it was so big, that attempting to clutch down the screaming of the line caused my 80 lb. fishing line to snap, fly back & wrap around our solar panels – darn!  Rock Sound is approximately 1 1/2 miles around, but shallow & protected on 3 sides so you just anchor in the quadrant you need wind protection from.

Eleuthera Island was founded in 1648 & is the official birthplace of the Bahamas.  Captain William Sayles & a group of Puritans (known as the Eleutherian Adventurers) sailed from Bermuda in search of religious freedom.  The difficulties of settlement ultimately left only a few of the settlers on the island, thwarting their aim of creating the first democracy in the Western Hemisphere (almost 130 years prior to the American Revolution).

Prior to that, Eleuthera had been occupied by the Lucayan Indians.  Unfortunately, Christopher Columbus & other Spanish “visitors” caused the deaths of many from disease & those remaining alive were enslaved by the Spanish in the 1500s & shipped to South America to work in the gold & silver mines.

This time it was much calmer. By the morning, even calmer – a millpond without even a ripple.

Once the winds died down, we bravely continued north to Governors Harbour.  I say bravely, as when we stopped there last 5 years ago in Ortolan, the weather forecast had been completely wrong & we ended up anchored stern-to barely off the beach in high winds with large waves until the wind finally shifted to it’s forecasted direction the next day.

Just so you know – it’s not always about the donuts

Yummy coconut danish

(actually they had donuts which were good – these danish were excellent!).  We remembered from last time this tiny, but good bakery tucked behind a row of houses.  We had planned on having lunch from a “take-away” restaurant, but it was closed.  We exchanged some books at their library – probably the nicest we have seen in the Bahamas.

This was a one-season reality TV show featuring the Spanish Wells lobstermen. If you Google around, you may be able to view an episode or two.

Our 3rd stop was Spanish Wells.  A busy & industrious little town.  In addition to boat repair yards, they are most well known for their lobstering industry.  During the 8-month lobstering season, their fleet of 10+ large fishing boats, each towing several smaller fishing boats, travel 150 – 200 miles south to the far southern Bahamas where they don’t spear or trap the lobsters – they “accommodate” them with “lobster condos”.  They place thousands of these large, flat structures which the lobsters seek shelter under.  Divers come along, tip up the structures, grab & harvest the dozens of surprised lobsters.  Spanish Wells provides all of the lobster tails  served at all of the Red Lobster restaurants in the U.S.

The Spanish Wells lobstermen are indeed extremely industrious.  They have formed cooperatives for their power, water & most importantly their large fishing fleet.  To remain focused on work, up until a few years ago, the island was dry – no alcohol – now that’s serious.

We treated ourselves to an actual dock at an actual marina – the first one in months!

Our friends Glenn & Linda on Mintaka just happened to be there – Just how it is in the cruising world!

Looking out over the “cheap seats” – the moorings we stayed at 5 years ago. Sorry Benj, we’ve decided to just go ahead & spend your inheritance!

Going all out, we even rented a golf cart to tour around in. 

This little bridge connects Russell Island to the rest of Spanish Wells

With the weather looking calm for a few days, we’re heading off to anchor at nearby Royal Island to head north to the Abacos for our last few weeks in the Bahamas.

Having escaped George Town we headed north up the Exuma chain stopping at some usual haunts.  Our first night we anchored at Rudder Cay (which along with neighboring Musha Cay) is the location of David Copperfield’s very exclusive resort.  For lunch the next day we stopped at Ty’s Sunset Bar & Grill on Little Farmers Cay located next to their very cute airport terminal.

We anchored a little further along at Jack’s Bay for the night & then in the morning continued on to Black Point.  Black Point is a favorite stop for laundry, restaurants & most importantly, Lorraine’s Mom’s coconut bread.  Lori has previously written & shown of photo of Mom in her home kitchen baking up this wonderful bread –  the best in all the Bahamas!  Black Point is booming as most of the 12+ daily tour boats from Sandals Resort stop here for lunch on their way from Staniel Cay & other touristy stops.  Another restaurant has opened up & most restaurants have built their own docks just for these tour boats.

Lobster salad & fish tacos

Staniel Cay is also a must-stop every trip.  Home of the famous underwater grotto featured in the Thunderball movie.  Their restaurant at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club is always a treat for us as well.

The tour boats arrive in droves to the nearby “Pig Beach” on Big Major Cay.  When we first visited in 2011, there was perhaps one tour boat & a few cruiser dinghies which would stop by to see & feed the pigs. 

It is now way out of control – two years several pigs died from stress & ingesting too much sand (when eating food people would throw).  And then there are the guys who think its cool to share their beer with the pigs.  The government has attempted to control the madness with a feeding station, but stupid tourists just wanna have fun…

Rather than continuing further north up the Exumas, we will be next crossing over to Eleuthera, as we haven’t been in several years.