We had an uneventful 56 mile trip from Royal Island to Little Harbour, Abaco in very calm conditions.  The wind forecast of 4 knots, gusting to 5 knots was right on the money.  Perfect for our little power boat, but the other dozen boats were “brave” sailboats, most with their sails up flopping uselessly.  It was funny listening to them on the VHF radio talking as if the forecast had been way off…

R.I.P.

I’m glad I caught those Mahi on the way south, as I’m only hooking & losing on the way north. Again, I hooked something big, this time losing my old, faithful cedar plug when the line snapped.  Cedar plugs are sold as unpainted cedar wood with a weight built into the lead end – very simple.  Not having any paint aboard, I painted it with Lori’s “mint candy apple” nail polish with some red highlights.  Surprising, it’s caught quite a few fish – unfortunately barracudas especially liked it, hence the large tooth scrapes.

A few miles out of Little Harbour I spotted this strange contraption being towed a few miles out.  Even with binoculars I couldn’t tell a thing.  An hour later, surprise, surprise it was only 100′ away coming right by us! 

Later on we were able to dinghy right up to it.

It took a Google search to figure out what the heck it was.  It’s the new Titan Submersible “the only privately-owned 5-person submersible capable of reaching depths as great as 4,000 meters”.  That’s over 13,000 feet!  It is used for site survey & inspection, research & data collection, film & media production as well as deep sea testing.  While it may look as though the sub is being transported on a mini barge, it’s actually a launch & recovery platform – the whole thing is lowered down 30′ below the waves, then the sub detaches, continuing the remaining 12,970′ on it’s own.  One aim is to allow the use of a smaller support ship – no large crane is needed.  The 13,000′ depth is important as … that’s the depth of the Titanic.  Later this year it’s headed there to further explore the Titanic, first with their own personnel, then with Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute scientists … then … you can go (for only $100,000!).  Not sure what it is doing here, but likely continued testing as the water is over 14,000′ just 12 miles out of Little Harbour.  Lots of interesting info, photos, news stories & video on their website http://oceangate.com

Brush fires miles away created an eerie sunset.

Little Harbour is unfortunately being changed forever by developers from nearby high-end properties who thought it would be neat to offer a waterside clubhouse with boat slips.  While locals fought it for several years with a “Save Little Harbour” campaign, money usually wins out both here & in the U.S.

This is just one of 4 sets of new docks – not sure if all the same developer.

The primary reason we always stop in Little Harbour is Pete’s Pub.  Lori has featured it with photos many times & it recently won 4th place in (yet another) contest of Best Beach Bars in the Caribbean (even though the Bahamas is not).  In addition to being a fun place with good drinks, the food (especially fresh fish) is always really good.  There weren’t many cruisers this time, but it was mobbed with crazy spring breakers – we only stayed one night.

It’s been 5 years since we visited Eleuthera, so time to head back & walk on their famous pink sand beaches.Crossing over from Staniel Cay is an easy 46 miles to Rock Sound near the southern end of Eleuthera.  Almost caught a fish on the way – it was so big, that attempting to clutch down the screaming of the line caused my 80 lb. fishing line to snap, fly back & wrap around our solar panels – darn!  Rock Sound is approximately 1 1/2 miles around, but shallow & protected on 3 sides so you just anchor in the quadrant you need wind protection from.

Eleuthera Island was founded in 1648 & is the official birthplace of the Bahamas.  Captain William Sayles & a group of Puritans (known as the Eleutherian Adventurers) sailed from Bermuda in search of religious freedom.  The difficulties of settlement ultimately left only a few of the settlers on the island, thwarting their aim of creating the first democracy in the Western Hemisphere (almost 130 years prior to the American Revolution).

Prior to that, Eleuthera had been occupied by the Lucayan Indians.  Unfortunately, Christopher Columbus & other Spanish “visitors” caused the deaths of many from disease & those remaining alive were enslaved by the Spanish in the 1500s & shipped to South America to work in the gold & silver mines.

This time it was much calmer. By the morning, even calmer – a millpond without even a ripple.

Once the winds died down, we bravely continued north to Governors Harbour.  I say bravely, as when we stopped there last 5 years ago in Ortolan, the weather forecast had been completely wrong & we ended up anchored stern-to barely off the beach in high winds with large waves until the wind finally shifted to it’s forecasted direction the next day.

Just so you know – it’s not always about the donuts

Yummy coconut danish

(actually they had donuts which were good – these danish were excellent!).  We remembered from last time this tiny, but good bakery tucked behind a row of houses.  We had planned on having lunch from a “take-away” restaurant, but it was closed.  We exchanged some books at their library – probably the nicest we have seen in the Bahamas.

This was a one-season reality TV show featuring the Spanish Wells lobstermen. If you Google around, you may be able to view an episode or two.

Our 3rd stop was Spanish Wells.  A busy & industrious little town.  In addition to boat repair yards, they are most well known for their lobstering industry.  During the 8-month lobstering season, their fleet of 10+ large fishing boats, each towing several smaller fishing boats, travel 150 – 200 miles south to the far southern Bahamas where they don’t spear or trap the lobsters – they “accommodate” them with “lobster condos”.  They place thousands of these large, flat structures which the lobsters seek shelter under.  Divers come along, tip up the structures, grab & harvest the dozens of surprised lobsters.  Spanish Wells provides all of the lobster tails  served at all of the Red Lobster restaurants in the U.S.

The Spanish Wells lobstermen are indeed extremely industrious.  They have formed cooperatives for their power, water & most importantly their large fishing fleet.  To remain focused on work, up until a few years ago, the island was dry – no alcohol – now that’s serious.

We treated ourselves to an actual dock at an actual marina – the first one in months!

Our friends Glenn & Linda on Mintaka just happened to be there – Just how it is in the cruising world!

Looking out over the “cheap seats” – the moorings we stayed at 5 years ago. Sorry Benj, we’ve decided to just go ahead & spend your inheritance!

Going all out, we even rented a golf cart to tour around in. 

This little bridge connects Russell Island to the rest of Spanish Wells

With the weather looking calm for a few days, we’re heading off to anchor at nearby Royal Island to head north to the Abacos for our last few weeks in the Bahamas.