Mile marker 115 in the Alligator-Pungo Canal. Some states have these every five miles.

We are traveling north about one month later than the past three years. Noticeably warmth, with fewer windy days and other cruising boats but the delay puts us into the thunderstorm season. I mean, who wouldn’t want more thunder and lightning? Sigh. Cape Lookout was on our mind as was a detour through Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke and Manteo, but got scratched due to rain and TS forecasted over the coming few days along with 15-20kts wind.
Naturally, playing it safe improved the weather and we sped through North Carolina eager to avoid the “at least one crappy weather event” that always seems to occur somewhere between Oriental and Beaufort, NC. Wednesday would be our third 60+nm day in a row, taking us through the 20 mile-long Alligator-Pungo Canal, the Alligator River and its fickle swing bridge, then cross the Albemarle Sound. We happily accepted low winds that made for a pleasant day.

S/v Ruffian beats us by a length as we pour it on to make the opening, no thanks to the uncommunicative bridge tender

Tuesday night we got a taste of summer-time marsh bugs; but I guess this was just the scout pack. Wednesday as we got closer to shore and anchoring, the entire army and reinforcements swarmed us. Not mosquitoes thankfully, but 3 kinds of flying things; most were black, some tiny and almost clear and the others blind mosquitoes we guess. The temp had climbed to nearly 90 and on top of that thunderstorms were headed southeast. The outside was covered and of course we have plenty of small openings that can’t be plugged up.

Do they like us or are we being attacked? Ugh- not pleasant either way

At the first dock where Russ helps s/v Sophia dock between us and power cat Dyad

So we did what we had to: retreat!! Started up the generator, ran the AC in one hull at a time and headed below for happy hour and dinner. Much of the evening and into early nighttime was a constant lightning show, minimal thunder, rain and when the front line passed over us, a 180 degree wind shift (we planned for the shift and the anchor held well). The wind kicked up whenever a blob came near, but I was relieved that we didn’t receive any direct hits of the thunder and lightning producing red and purple centers. As you might guess, our visiting insect army was not happy and those who did not perish (and are either glued to our hull, in our wet-dry vac or smushed in tiny pieces of paper towel) departed for who-knows-where.
Ah, bug and temperature relief all in one. Russ spent 10 mins vacuuming up the interior dead bodies the next morning as those without a sense of direction went the wrong way when the thunderstorms arrived.
Thursday and Friday nights would find us first at the free dock before the Great Bridge Bascule Bridge and then at the one after. Don’t ask.

Dinner at Chili’s. That is our free appetizer for signing up for emailed specials

Sunset view of the lock at Great Bridge VA as seen from the free dock between the lock and bridge

Tug and barge pass by after exiting the lock.

Saturday we moved all of 4 miles through the lock and one opening bridge, to Top Rack Marina to watch the lift truck move boats in and out and around. 🙂

We lead the pack of seven boats in the lock. New pontoon owner was getting a lock transit demo

The good part of this place is an excellent diesel price, super-fast wi-fi and if you dine at the Amber Lantern Restaurant on-site, your dockage (only $1ft anyway) is free. Say no more. We needed water and fuel anyway before starting our offshore Monday morning and the wi-fi allowed us to update apps, photo stream and blog free and easy. The people in the pontoon boat behind us in the lock confirmed that the restaurant was excellent, which we knew from last spring’s stop. The showers are beautiful, spa quality and even if I hadn’t needed clean and styled hair (for my night out you know) I’d have used it anyway.
Sunday should find us anchored 38 miles away near Cape Charles; positioned for a quick exit out of the huge and busy harbor. Monday at not quite o-dark thirty we’d begin the 240nm offshore trip up to Sandy Hook, NJ, the longest single leg of our 2013-14 cruising year. S/v Makai, who we finally met in Staniel Cay, you may recall, was ahead of us at Cape May leaving for Sandy Hook on Monday also. Perhaps we’d both be anchored off the Coast Guard station Tuesday night. Stay tuned.

We being the drive north by crossing over the ICW via the Socastee Swing Bridge

This gloomy look was nothing compared the rain we drove through most of the way up to Vermont. We always get a kick out of walking or driving over bridges that have opened for us on the ICW.

Watch out for crazy laundry lady driving golf cart!

Graduation was a huge success in all respects, we logged roughly 1,000 miles each way with the drive back way more pleasant than the rain-drenched drive up.
A few chores were in order; boat washing, laundry, removing partial birds’ nests (where we could reach, but could be more) and returning our rental.
So you could say, since trip number one was so successful, why not do it again, only slower and take in the sights. Oh, and why you’re at it be sure to travel on a busy holiday long weekend and experience local boat traffic as never before. No way, thank you very much.

Along the skinny stretch known as the “Rockpile” -beware of rocks protruding from shore

Our timing was good. Thursday would see us just shy of the NC line and Friday we’d transit past the two inlets where we went aground last fall. Busy inlets with plenty of locals fishing and zooming about on weekends; I never like to do this stretch on a weekend. No worries about depth this time; North Carolina recently completed dredging the ICW near Shallotte and Lockwoods Folly inlets and joyous ActiveCaptain reviews proclaimed plenty of water even at low tide; which was good since we passed through near low.

Recently damaged bumper system at Little River Swing Bridge. Lucky the bridge was still operational

A barge came by (at night?) and mowed down the fender system and pilings.

Each spring we see these Three Billy Goats Gruff on this narrow marshy island

First time we’d seen a clam digger. Obviously low tide

Every trip we see this boat closer to “sunk” and taking the dilapidated dock with it

Friday we’d arrive at Carolina Beach and try out one of the new moorings. The area is relatively quiet even with several marinas nearby, charter fishing boats and a few tour cats and late night party boats. This was the perfect spot to hunker down to hide out from the frenzied local boaters and from forecasted thunderstorms. Our real reason for being here though is Britt’s Donuts. Gosh almighty delicious and I will not say how many we purchased and consumed between Friday evening (they open at 4pm) and Sunday morning. Trust me on this and Russ agrees, these are not to be missed and belong on your bucket list. If you haven’t started a bucket list, do so now. Started in 1939 using a closely-held recipe, Britt’s churns out one kind of perfect donut. You can watch and be amazed at the volume produced in a tiny room.

One of many accolades on the wall

We couldn’t get enough!

Several other locations on the OBX; don’t you want one in your town? Russ is looking for Ginger Beer.

Memorial Day weekend beach goers; the view was the same the other way

Sunday, we braved the rapids (well nearly) and cavorted with the locals for the 11 mile run to Wrightsville Beach where we needed to stage for a jump offshore on Monday up to Beaufort, NC .

A very active ICW on Sunday as we headed to Wrightsville Beach

NOAA promised a near perfect day for us, SW 10, then going 10-15 in the afternoon, seas 2-3 ft. The dolphins visited briefly less than 10 mins after I (this was not complaining) mentioned that the day would truly be deemed perfect if only we’d seen dolphins.

Always a pleasure to see these graceful creatures. And see- the water is sort of blue!

I figured that if they hadn’t shown up by 5pm a comment couldn’t hurt. I love it when I’m right. Russ dashed out to watch and snap a few (hundred) photos.  We got anchored by 6:15 and you will never guess who arrived during the night and anchored nearby.