Photo Finish

Normally, as many of you know, I would have posted several times about our time in the Exumas. Too much fun in the sun and limited wi-fi put the kabash on that, but I’d say it was for the best. So here’s some photo highlights of our time in George Town, Exuma through leaving the Exumas on April 1, bound for the Abacos.  I think there’s something here for all interests.

DSC03163 (1024x644)

Cort’s House on Stocking Island, across from George Town, Exuma. Before painting and much more.

 

George Town cruising regatta- in harbor race with precious little wind

George Town cruising Regatta- in harbor race with precious little wind. Yes, they race through the anchored boats.

 

Jeff & Karen Siegel sing aCapella (almost) I told you So

Cruising Regatta Variety Show: Jeff & Karen Siegel sing aCapella (almost) “I told you So”.  Aka, ActiveCaptain 🙂

 

Ladies tug first

Ladies tug first. I got roped (pun intended) into the tug o war- fun and yes, we lost.

 

Ready set, GO... for fun

Ready set, GO… for fun

 

Sara on left

You would think we won, but no.  So much fun though.

 

IMG_2822 (800x588)

Our friend Cort (who urged me to join the ladies tug) and grandson Max do their team proud.

 

COconut Challenge

Coconut Challenge. More regatta fun. Paddle with flippers and collect coconuts.

 

Alotta coconuts

A lotta coconuts. But they didn’t collect the golden coconut.

And we finally depart George Town and Elizabeth harbor, missing the Fun Volleyball regatta event- and Cort and Max leading their team to victory (we hope).

Exumas- Children'sBay?

Exumas- Children’s Bay. Interesting name.

 

No longer a pirate gal, she's a fishing lady

No longer a pirate gal, she’s a fishing lady. Look who we came upon. Like seeing ourselves, only we didn’t tow our dinghy.

 

Rudder Cay

Rudder Cay. A beautiful sunset. Haven’t seem many notable ones until now.

 

Anchored off Cave Cay sand bar

Anchored off Cave Cay sand bar. LOW winds allowed us to be brave and daring.

 

our fave sand bar

Our fave sand bar off Cave Cay.

IMG_2871

Sand bar selfie

see the fleshy part in front

Olive shell, very much alive. See the fleshy part in front? It would extend out to move.

 

goats on Big Farmers S anchorage

Goats on Big Farmers Cay. Heard them a lot, only saw them once.

 

lower tide BF tidal creek

A nursery for baby rays; at lower tide in a tidal creek. Mama could be spotted in deeper waters.

 

The ocean in 20kts+ East wind. BFC SandDollar Bch

The ocean in 20kts+ East wind. Big Farmers Cay on the ocean side.

 

Helmet shell- excellent specimen and scads of sand dollars

Helmet shell- excellent specimen and scads of sand dollars ( I didn’t keep them all)

 

Ty's, foot wash next to shower

After Big, comes Little.  Farmers that is. and Ty’s. Left of the shower stall is a foot wash- so handy.

 

Twin Sisters and baby sis at Ty's Lil Farmers

Twin Sisters and baby sis at Ty’s Sunset Bar and Grill, Lil Farmers

 

Paradise and cruisers' delight

Paradise and cruisers’ delight. Can you tell we liked this place? Lunch and Dinner was served with stainless flatware, no plastic here. Cloth napkins too.

 

All lined up- dinghy, TS and clouds- by Ty's

All lined up- dinghy, TS and clouds- by Ty’s

 

One lands and gets out of the way of the 2nd

One plane lands and gets out of the way of the 2nd. Tys is right next to the air strip. Keeps things interesting.

 

Didn't land

Didn’t land, but sure was fun to watch.

 

Anchor chain marks along bottom 5.7ft

Anchor chain marks along bottom 5.7ft. One of our favorite sights; low, low wind and watching the anchor chain. Ok, so we are easily amused.

DSC03329 (800x549)

I found the missing mailboat!

I found the missing mailboat!   🙂 Days earlier we’d heard of mailboat and food delivery problems.

 

Possible Haitian or Cuban wreck on Little FArmers

Possible Haitian or Cuban wreck on Little Farmers. Russ was enthralled and went to check this out

 

IMG_3014 (800x600)

IMG_3019 (600x800)

Little Bay morning

Little Bay morning. Yes, we moved. But still found calm waters.

 

Walking thru never finished marina over to SOund side beach

Walking thru never finished marina, over to a beach on the sound side.

 

Large snail with all INSIDES out

Large snail with all INSIDES out making tracks for the water. We placed him/her in the shallow water because we worried.

 

Happy Birthday Dad!!

Happy Birthday Dad!! Russ receives the BEST birthday gift; a surprise week-long visit from Benj

 

See the red plane?

First stop Staniel Cay. See the red plane?

 

Snorkel the Grotto- tan and white guys

Heading out to snorkel the Grotto- tan and white guys

 

Many Mahi Mahi

Many Mahi Mahi

 

Fresh conch salad making at Staniel

Fresh conch salad making at Staniel Cay docks, near the many Mahi

 

Return with fresh conch salad

The guys return with fresh conch salad, prepared before their eyes- just the way we  like it.

 

Happy family at SCYC

Happy family at SCYC. Russ doesn’t smile like this very often, but this was a SPECIAL occasion for sure; I mean it’s not every day you turn 60!! Hehe

 

explore cave on Great Guana Cay by Oven Rock

We backtrack a bit and explore a cave on Great Guana Cay by Oven Rock

 

Staniel Cay

Staniel Cay. For some reason awesome sunsets can be found right here

 

Sandy Cay with anchored boats behind Big Major

Sandy Cay with anchored boats behind Big Major. You know, Pig Beach aka Big Major.

 

Chopper flies off- love the clouds

Warderick Wells in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.- love the clouds

 

Sand bar becomes more exposed

Warderick Wells.  Sand bar becomes more exposed

 

Good view of mooring at WW

Good view of mooring at Warderick Wells.  Depth was oh, ten feet.

 

Tucked in at Highbourne- great S protection. Even the BTC tower

Tucked in at Highbourne- great South protection.  BTC tower for great cell service. Last anchorage in Exumas

 

Calmer past Fleeming Channel

Fleeming Channel- not really a channel but a wide area. Bound for Royal Island, Eleuthera. Next stop, Little Harbor, Abacos

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zoomin’ Exumas

Multiple weather checks to the point of compulsive in an effort to plan our ability to get into Elizabeth Harbour, aka George Town, occurred with increasing frequency. Of equal importance was stopping at Black Point for coconut bread, coconut rolls, laundry and maybe meeting up with Mike and Ann on Traveling Soul, aka the other TS. Could we make that stop and then move south in time to stage for a much-desired short hop out into Exuma Sound (essentially the Atlantic Ocean) on the morning of forecasted low winds? And if that low wind window evaporated, we needed to be somewhere safe for the cold front arriving Thurs night/Friday morning.

My favorite Spot who shares my love of Ann's homemade gourmet tonic water

My favorite Spot…… who shares my love of Ann’s homemade gourmet tonic water

We had two plans and they both included the same path, but we’d have a sloppy trip at times going into southerly wind and waves, as even the Bank side gets choppy. Our wishes all came true and my happy face was out in full force.
The harbor at Black Point is large enough for all the boats who want to be there and we got a spot near Rockside Laundry in the hope of being able to use the Wi-fi to Skype Anthem. As we dropped anchor (in the water, not on my foot) I heard a loud whistle and looked around to see wild waving from someone on a red and white canvased Canadian monohull ; oh it’s our old friends on s/v Persistence, who used to be sailing cat Polar Pacer, but now have a monohull. Been a long time since we’d seen them, but two years ago we saw their old cat with her new owners in George Town.
Black Point looked good; Lorraine’s Café had expanded and now provided native Bahamian buffet lunch to tourists brought in by fast 30-seater power cat, the laundry was still the same price and Ida was happy to see everyone and still doing haircuts. I’d special ordered coconut rolls Sunday and they were ready in all their glorious deliciousness; some to share and some to devour.
Hey, look! Another PDQ34 is coming in!! Miss Agnes– red trim and of course I waved. Happy hour was a long-awaited reunion with  m/v Traveling Soul, aka Empress Spot and her crew. We’d kept in touch so it didn’t seem like quite so long – Thanksgiving!- since we’d last seem them. Then again, they do travel. Six of us gathered for dinner at DeShamon where the entrée of choice was boiled (poached really) grouper. Delicious and generous portion accompanied by peas and rice, slaw and baked mac & cheese. A couple of rum punches rounded out a decent Bahamian meal.
Tuesday the journey south continued, with arrival in George Town on Thursday looking more likely. We didn’t exactly travel far but it was another creaky trip to a spot we like at the southern end of Big Farmers Cay.
Wednesday took us out into the dangerously shallow “inside route”, followed only by shallow draft vessels such as catamarans and a few others willing to take the chance. Yep, that’s us brave and daring…did we undergo personality changes? No way, but my write-up sounds exciting doesn’t it? Much of it is luck and we had that today; the tide was rising and we’d be passing through the shallow sections close to high tide, so we’d have at least an extra 2 ½ ft over the charted MLW depths.
Between Darby and the West Pimlicos the depth sounder gave us the lowest reading of that entire stretch; just shy of 8ft. Explorer charts are the best and haven’t failed us yet, even though depths can change over the years as the sand shifts, thanks to storms and an often cranky Mother Nature.

Looking back as we go past the W Pimlicos

Looking back as we go past the West Pimlicos

Tug and Barge rock

Tug and Barge rock

Our day ended at Barreterre which connects to another island by a bridge and that island connects by bridge to Great Exuma. Bridges are scarce in the Bahamas. The weather Thursday would determine our next move, or no move. A mild cold front was due in and we take no front for granted, because then the wind will blows out of the west…- have I mentioned that’s not a good thing?  The Exuma chain offers plenty of anchorages of all shapes and sizes but precious few offer protection from winds out of the SW- W- NW. Barreterre is one of them and if we couldn’t get to George Town then we’d be perfectly safe staying put.

Anchored off Barreterre

Anchored off Barreterre

The day’s trip had been windier than we would prefer but about 30mins after we anchored the wind backed down and over the next few hours we watched several boats enter Rat Cay Cut, heading north. All night the wind behaved and we awoke to 5kts out of south. (we don’t have a means to know the direction for sure, but our flags provide a reasonable clue and when sailboats are close enough we look at the wind instrument on their mast top). This was better than hoped for and after breakfast we raised that shiny anchor and that Maggi chain and took off for Rat Cay Cut. The cut faces NNW and with wind out of the south, it was smooth like we’ve never seen any Bahamas cut.

Yacht enters Rat Cay Cut as we approach to enter into Exuma Sound

Yacht coming in from Exuma Sound through Rat Cay Cut as we approach it to enter Exuma Sound

Ex

The small trio of rocks are Three Sisters which we passed on our way to Elizabeth Harbour. On the chart plotter you can see us (the black boat shaped thing) and the charted trio of rocks.

Twin Sisters purred her happy song and her crew could not have been more thrilled. The Sound, which I mean is really the Atlantic Ocean except for Eleuthera, Cat and Conception standing in the way, offered up gentle swells that diminished as we proceeded south. Cut to cut, the distance is 18nm.
The day’s total mileage was 26nm; in just under 3 hours Twins sat happily anchored at February Point. This spot is often called the Litter Box. Get it? But at least half the boats are not cats, so there. The route in from the harbor begins at Kidd Cove; it’s not a marked route, you just go where the chart indicates the deepest water. At high tide you could have as little as six feet in some spots, so many boats could manage that, but when anchored the tide drops two feet and that’s what keeps most boats out.

Feb Pt in 5 ft

In five feet of calm water you get this delightful but eerie view.

The other thing that keeps many away is that this spot is almost as secluded as RedShanks, and not near the happenings on Volleyball Beach. But since the route is shallow the dinghy ride in to town is better (drier and not as bouncy) than crossing the harbor and shorter because we can zoom right along.  Now…. for obtaining produce and finding our friend Cort who is building a beach house on the moon – – ok maybe not quite that far, but on a small island is almost as challenging. 🙂