Multiple weather checks to the point of compulsive in an effort to plan our ability to get into Elizabeth Harbour, aka George Town, occurred with increasing frequency. Of equal importance was stopping at Black Point for coconut bread, coconut rolls, laundry and maybe meeting up with Mike and Ann on Traveling Soul, aka the other TS. Could we make that stop and then move south in time to stage for a much-desired short hop out into Exuma Sound (essentially the Atlantic Ocean) on the morning of forecasted low winds? And if that low wind window evaporated, we needed to be somewhere safe for the cold front arriving Thurs night/Friday morning.

My favorite Spot…… who shares my love of Ann’s homemade gourmet tonic water

We had two plans and they both included the same path, but we’d have a sloppy trip at times going into southerly wind and waves, as even the Bank side gets choppy. Our wishes all came true and my happy face was out in full force.
The harbor at Black Point is large enough for all the boats who want to be there and we got a spot near Rockside Laundry in the hope of being able to use the Wi-fi to Skype Anthem. As we dropped anchor (in the water, not on my foot) I heard a loud whistle and looked around to see wild waving from someone on a red and white canvased Canadian monohull ; oh it’s our old friends on s/v Persistence, who used to be sailing cat Polar Pacer, but now have a monohull. Been a long time since we’d seen them, but two years ago we saw their old cat with her new owners in George Town.
Black Point looked good; Lorraine’s Café had expanded and now provided native Bahamian buffet lunch to tourists brought in by fast 30-seater power cat, the laundry was still the same price and Ida was happy to see everyone and still doing haircuts. I’d special ordered coconut rolls Sunday and they were ready in all their glorious deliciousness; some to share and some to devour.
Hey, look! Another PDQ34 is coming in!! Miss Agnes– red trim and of course I waved. Happy hour was a long-awaited reunion with  m/v Traveling Soul, aka Empress Spot and her crew. We’d kept in touch so it didn’t seem like quite so long – Thanksgiving!- since we’d last seem them. Then again, they do travel. Six of us gathered for dinner at DeShamon where the entrée of choice was boiled (poached really) grouper. Delicious and generous portion accompanied by peas and rice, slaw and baked mac & cheese. A couple of rum punches rounded out a decent Bahamian meal.
Tuesday the journey south continued, with arrival in George Town on Thursday looking more likely. We didn’t exactly travel far but it was another creaky trip to a spot we like at the southern end of Big Farmers Cay.
Wednesday took us out into the dangerously shallow “inside route”, followed only by shallow draft vessels such as catamarans and a few others willing to take the chance. Yep, that’s us brave and daring…did we undergo personality changes? No way, but my write-up sounds exciting doesn’t it? Much of it is luck and we had that today; the tide was rising and we’d be passing through the shallow sections close to high tide, so we’d have at least an extra 2 ½ ft over the charted MLW depths.
Between Darby and the West Pimlicos the depth sounder gave us the lowest reading of that entire stretch; just shy of 8ft. Explorer charts are the best and haven’t failed us yet, even though depths can change over the years as the sand shifts, thanks to storms and an often cranky Mother Nature.

Looking back as we go past the West Pimlicos

Tug and Barge rock

Our day ended at Barreterre which connects to another island by a bridge and that island connects by bridge to Great Exuma. Bridges are scarce in the Bahamas. The weather Thursday would determine our next move, or no move. A mild cold front was due in and we take no front for granted, because then the wind will blows out of the west…- have I mentioned that’s not a good thing?  The Exuma chain offers plenty of anchorages of all shapes and sizes but precious few offer protection from winds out of the SW- W- NW. Barreterre is one of them and if we couldn’t get to George Town then we’d be perfectly safe staying put.

Anchored off Barreterre

The day’s trip had been windier than we would prefer but about 30mins after we anchored the wind backed down and over the next few hours we watched several boats enter Rat Cay Cut, heading north. All night the wind behaved and we awoke to 5kts out of south. (we don’t have a means to know the direction for sure, but our flags provide a reasonable clue and when sailboats are close enough we look at the wind instrument on their mast top). This was better than hoped for and after breakfast we raised that shiny anchor and that Maggi chain and took off for Rat Cay Cut. The cut faces NNW and with wind out of the south, it was smooth like we’ve never seen any Bahamas cut.

Yacht coming in from Exuma Sound through Rat Cay Cut as we approach it to enter Exuma Sound

The small trio of rocks are Three Sisters which we passed on our way to Elizabeth Harbour. On the chart plotter you can see us (the black boat shaped thing) and the charted trio of rocks.

Twin Sisters purred her happy song and her crew could not have been more thrilled. The Sound, which I mean is really the Atlantic Ocean except for Eleuthera, Cat and Conception standing in the way, offered up gentle swells that diminished as we proceeded south. Cut to cut, the distance is 18nm.
The day’s total mileage was 26nm; in just under 3 hours Twins sat happily anchored at February Point. This spot is often called the Litter Box. Get it? But at least half the boats are not cats, so there. The route in from the harbor begins at Kidd Cove; it’s not a marked route, you just go where the chart indicates the deepest water. At high tide you could have as little as six feet in some spots, so many boats could manage that, but when anchored the tide drops two feet and that’s what keeps most boats out.

In five feet of calm water you get this delightful but eerie view.

The other thing that keeps many away is that this spot is almost as secluded as RedShanks, and not near the happenings on Volleyball Beach. But since the route is shallow the dinghy ride in to town is better (drier and not as bouncy) than crossing the harbor and shorter because we can zoom right along.  Now…. for obtaining produce and finding our friend Cort who is building a beach house on the moon – – ok maybe not quite that far, but on a small island is almost as challenging. 🙂

Sunset 6pm Bahama Banks approaching the NW Channel toward New Providence

Our overnight was uneventful; the sunset gorgeous, the moon lit our way until 4am, sunrise a sailor’s delight but boy it was a squeaky, creaky sloppy ride. Heading due East with north winds gave us waves hitting us almost broadside. While they weren’t more than a foot on the Bahama Banks (between Bimini, and Chub Cay which sits at bottom of Berry Islands) the problem was that due to “chilly” and breezy we ran Twins from the lower helm where the waves pound more. As we moved along at a speed that doesn’t take us over the wave stops, rather they get to have their way with us, the layers of cabinets, doorways, bulkhead, etc., flex and complain rather loudly, especially on the starboard (right) side.
The worst was the last 5 hours and once dawn started to break, we sped up to alleviate some of the wave slapping, rocking and creaking we (Russ) had gotten very weary of. Speaking of weary…. Yes we were tired, yes we tried to sleep, yes it was too noisy. The bed sits on top of the 100hp engine, the waves hit the sides and underneath because we don’t have much of what is called bridge deck clearance (Twins has at least one foot less than Ortolan), and well there’s the creaky, squeaky thing. Russ managed a few hours total while I kept watch (Otto works well on Twins) but I chose to rest on the small sofa across from the helm and dozed a bit. The one positive guarantee with an overnight is that we both sleep soundly the next night.
Our original plan had been to anchor by Highbourne Cay (very north part of Exumas), then head for Bell Island to tuck behind it for the cold front arriving Friday/Saturday. However; on Tuesday (decision day) the timing was for clocking at midnight (strong wind from west that had been SW prior) and gusting 34kts. Nah, don’t like that; at least not anymore and probably not in Ms Rocky Squeaky. Sooo let’s just stay put at the marina for a few nights until the winds calm down and we can travel down the east side of the Exuma chain (the banks side) in comfort. Called the marina before departing Bimini and reserve space starting Thursday night.

La Di Da Highbourne Cay Marina

One of several cabanas overlooking the now and usually calm bank side, looking out to Oyster Cay

One of eight beaches at Highbourne –  near entrance facing SE

Banaquit- looking to attract a mate- see the puffed feathers?

“Been waiting long?”, asks the Banaquit enjoying a snack.

The name fits the cay very well, to an H you might say.

H is for Highbourne. Banks side to the left, Exuma Sound and Atlantic to the right

It is located at the northern end of the Exuma Chain and with its highest point over 100 ft above sea level, is one the highest elevations in the Exumas. The island claims eight beaches, and East Beach which faces east and Exuma Sound, is renowned for its beauty and ranked as one of the best in the Bahamas. I have to agree. Two miles long, clean, easy walking and it even gave up a few sea beans and tiny shells.

East Beach – in the lee of the big wind

Highbourne offers not only a protected marina, but eight cottages discreetly nestled in the landscape with views of Exuma Sound and the Atlantic Ocean. Free use of bikes, kayaks and paddleboards; we used bikes as way too windy for water activities. Comfy lounge chairs and cabans are scattered throughout-too chilly and windy for those too. Xuma restaurant sits perched up with a lovely view of the Banks side; it is open air but strataglass curtains are dropped when the wind or rain arrives.
Twins got the typical Bahamian spider-web tie in the slip, plus an additional line tied between us and the sailboat next to us on our left. The fixed finger pier was on our right.

West wind begins to pick up. S/v Exotic Dream fuels up before heading back to Nassau. Yes, a story here.

No way was I passing up a top-notch dining opportunity, because as you may recall, not many of those exist in the Exumas. But which day and which meal? Friday rained much of the day; Saturday would be windy and cooler-sigh life is tough. We settled on lunch Saturday as dinner time would be too chilly for our thinned-out blood. And not as budget busting as dinner. 🙂

Lunch at Xuma- only one other couple dining in style- the wine bucket is not ours 🙂 The banaquit was my reason for the photo.

The marina offers a small grocery and gift shop. One item got checked off the list- a Bahamian calendar which we missed having last year.

Our favorite souvenir- Bahamas calendar

Twins has her original inverter; this is a crucial piece of equipment that turns 12V DC into 120V AC so you can use your pronged electric corded devices when not hooked up to shore power or the generator isn’t running. Ours may or may not be showing its age. But one thing it doesn’t do is regulate incoming voltage, so when Highbourne produces 136V that’s too much and causes problems. For our last day there we decided the prudent mariner should unplug and stow the ever-present cord (first time since we bought her). This high voltage thing seems normal  in the Bahamas; had similar in Bimini and have heard from others they’ve experienced the same at other marinas.

You will be happy to know that we had no further problems (yet) and that we still take delight in a blazing red sunset

Highbourne Cay

Questions? Comments ? I know I left out some explanations- but you can ask 🙂  Happy to have you all along for the ride.  My question is: when you read the word “Cay” are you thinking Key or Kay?  Not easy to think and say Key when your brain says Kay.