Month: November 2013

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Charleston- we still love it!

In this photo from the archives, you can see how small the basin is

In this photo from the archives, you can see how small the basin is

The Charleston Maritime Center is our affordable choice for being close to downtown Charleston; close as in an easy walk of a few blocks. And if you’ve got two good knees it’s really easy!

The downside to the marina is the small basin is exposed to the east. The three-boat face dock sits parallel to the opening roughly 150ft away. Planning is important to even thinking about a good stay here and an accurate forecast is helpful. We’d hoped to spend three nights but as usual hedged our bets and only paid for two. By day two the forecast clearly warranted due consideration at NNE 10-25 with gusts to 30. No, not going to be pleasant with that stuff blowing into the tiny basin, pushing us and our not-very-beefy fenders into the dock. Even boat wakes can be deadly here. Two huge swells came rolling in, the culprit long gone and we bounced and pressed against the dock hard enough to produce a smack then crunching sound that lasted for 15 seconds. We both got into inspection mode, flashlights and all, but found no cracks or evidence of any damage. Even the huge container ships slide by slow enough to not cause a wake like that.

We enjoyed lunch at  A.W. Shucks (get it?) in the heart of downtown. I bravely opted for their special: Steamed Banks Oysters which required such effort that I was glad we’d also ordered She Crab Soup for easy eating. The oysters are harvested locally and they are prehistoric relics, growing in clumps, each oyster rather long and skinny. Tasty, but as you might expect, not much to eat in each.

Bucket of steamed banks oysters.

Bucket of steamed banks oysters.

They steam 'em, you shuck 'em. I got good with practice

They steam ’em, you shuck ’em. I got good with practice

We required a post office, which was an easy walk, only it wasn’t open yet!  Talk about cost cutting. This huge P.O. in the heart of downtown Charleston opens at 11:30. It also contains a postal museum so I forgave the late opening.

This grand post office once served as a courthouse

This grand post office once served as a courthouse

Circular colonial postmark displayed in the museum

Circular colonial postmark displayed in the museum

Interesting background on Post Office boxes- relatively unchanged for years

Interesting background on Post Office boxes- relatively unchanged for years

NOTE: We obtained several copies of Multihull Sailor at the Annapolis Sailboat Show- happy to send one out if anyone wants one

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Eagle Alley

Anchored behind Butler Island in the Waccamaw River approx. 10miles north of Georgetown, SC

Anchored behind Butler Island in the Waccamaw River approx. 10miles north of Georgetown, SC

After leaving Barefoot Marina we spent three days making the 100nm to Charleston and a two-night stay at the Maritime Center. Thanks to continued shoaling, some quite severe along the last 65 mile stretch, we needed to travel certain sections at mid tide or better. No way was a repeat of our Halloween adventures on my dance card and when I glanced at the Captain’s, his looked the same. When the tide range is seven feet you’ve got a lot to work with but some spots, as strongly attested to by ActiveCaptain reviews, had a little as 3 ½ ft at low tide. Now that’s bad. With no funds available, dredging will not be forthcoming.

Much of those last 65 miles takes us through the Cape Romain Wildlife Refuge where, you may recall, my spy-glass gets a workout thanks to the plethora of, well, wildlife. The camera zoom was stretch to its limit more than once.

If you look closely you can see the camera shy eagle below the one on top

If you look closely you can see the camera shy eagle below the one on top

Osprey and eagle share a prime perch

Osprey and eagle share a prime perch

This one strikes a commanding pose at the water,s edge

This one strikes a commanding pose at the water’s edge

Eagle count: 9  Plus osprey, egrets, herons, pelicans and various small birds. No gators this time though.

Monday night before heading in to Charleston on Tuesday was a tad windy and the anchoring is your choice of creeks on either side of the ICW. To the east lies the marshes and ocean, to the west, marshes and mainland. We chose a creek with plenty of swing room on the mainland side and one that was a creek off a creek. Wind do your worst, we are snug near the creek’s edge. No fetch to slam us around. I like it when 25kts feels like 10kts.

Came upon this camper house boat thing on our way to anchoring in Long Creek

Came upon this camper house boat thing on our way to anchoring in Long Creek