Month: February 2012

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Caves Galore

Bummed that we couldn’t learn more about the studies carried out at the Center (mostly by young interns from the looks of the photo org chart at HQ), off we sailed 16 nm north to Cave Cay.  We’ve gotten used to irregular hours and days of business in the Bahamas, especially in what are mostly very low population areas. Two trolling lines out netted us zilch. Wind and waves pushed us along on a starboard tack at 7kts.

Cave Cay cut is one of the best in the Exumas and even with the wind up we slid in nicely; with a little help from the incoming tide and wind. Nearly flat calm inside and pretty too, not like some cuts that make you nervous just looking at them.

Cave Cay Cat- looking out toward Exuma Sound

Hang a right once through the cut and you come to the mile and ½ long Cave Cay. Cave Cay is privately owned and No Trespassing signs abound, but that doesn’t stop one from checking out the grotto and the numerous caves that line the south-western shore.

The Bat (Guano) Cave

Grotto at Cave Cay

A barely operational marina resides inside a much protected basin. Several new buildings and floating docks are enticing; except for one sport fish it was deserted. Good place to anchor though.

The next cay just to the south of the cut is Musha Cay, supposedly owned by David Copperfield. Several colorfully painted, new looking buildings give the illusion of occupancy but again we saw no obvious sign of activity.

Musha Cay

Galliot Cut is just above Cay Cay with Little Galliot Cay about one mile in (west) from the cut. It was the next stop on our dinghy tour of the area. A tiny cay, 3/10 mile long, it was loaded with photo opps but no place to land the dinghy. More caves and a natural stone bridge or two kept me busy.

Cave at Little Galliot Cay

We’re definitely enjoying this leisurely trip back up the chain. The cut (allows passage between the deep waters of Exuma Sound and the shallower waters of Exuma Banks- some are safer than others) at Cave Cay will be our last cut until we leave the Exumas as from here on up we can travel the bank side- calmer, prettier and offers more protection from the prevailing E and SE winds.

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Lovin’ and Leavin’ Day – 2/14

Loved our time, would love to stay, conditions are right to leave today. Monday’s forecast showed 3 good days beginning Tuesday – good meaning East to ESE winds at less than 20kts –  our cue to depart on schedule. Once away from George Town we’d lack access to weather reports (SSB receiver will not receive Chris Parker’s weather) for the next few days or more.  Baked bread for sandwiches and made a small batch of chocolate macaroons (easy and I had the ingredients as any respectable chocolate lover should).

One final run to town – I sure won’t miss that ride – for more fishing supplies at Top II Bottom, Androsia fabric for the  headboard and curtains I plan to make, cheap booze (most hard liquor costs less than in the States and we found a Chilean wine label, Lazo, that sells for $7.15 or $5.75 if you buy a case- we bought two cases to save more!) and a spin through Exuma Markets. I passed up the chicken feet in favor of normal looking boneless pork chops and chicken breasts, scooped up two ripe avocados and shrugged at the lack of fruit; we’d have to make do. The market carries a good variety of foods but often runs out of items. We’ve tried to make do; when I wanted applesauce for pork chops and the choice was either peach applesauce (ugh) or none, we bought two apples and made our own. (Benj, take note)

We weren’t able to hook up with Celise/Spirit so accepted Puff’s evening invite. Our final beach walk took us in right when our new neighbors, Matina, a Lagoon catamaran, landed with their darling dog Farley (named after a well-known Canadian author). We walked over to the ocean side along the beach (so this is what you do with a dog) and shared our cruising life stories with Matt and Tina. Matt owns a very cool wind surfer and we learned he was the one zooming along through the harbor.

Enjoyed another cruiser-chat evening aboard Puff with two other couples about our age; one on a 26ft monohull- now that’s gutsy. Seabiscuit stopped by for a short time so we finally got to catch up with them- their dance card fills up fast!

Elizabeth Harbour- off Gaviota Bay (the "holes")

Tuesday morning arrived looking as promised and we raised the main shortly after the anchor, waved farewell to Polar Pacer and off we went. Two Cuban yoyos went out once through the cut and we struggled to sail with the wind SE at only 8kts.  But we did, 4.5 to 5kts, hoping for fish, running the water maker and enjoying the ride.

Six hours, 33 nm later and fish-less, we arrived at Lee Stocking Island, home of the Caribbean Science Research Center. Six brand new screw-type free mooring balls are available, so we took one. Only a caretaker was in residence so no tours could be had but we grabbed a trail map and off we went. I foolishly left the camera on board, figuring we’d come ashore Wed morning, but that was not to be.