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Cat Island: We check out New Bight

First let’s give you some Cat Island tidbits. Supposedly Cat is named after pirate Arthur Catt, or possibly after its large one-time population of feral cats. I’m going with the pirate guy version, not only because a pirate makes a better story, but then how do you explain Arthur’s Town, one of Cat’s few main settlements?  Arthur’s Town is the childhood home of Sir Sidney Poitier and if you are lucky you might run across his daughter who calls this settlement her home. Or, as one boat told us, you might have tea with his aunt and just miss him by a day.

Cat Island is 50 miles long, 150 sq miles, shaped like a boot (a pirate boot right?) and the 2000 census counted 1,650 residents. It is as you now know, the Bahamian island with the tallest hill, Mt. Alvernia.

Cat Island sits east of the south-central Exumas. Can see Conception Island in the bottom right-hand corner

Cat Island sits east of the south-central Exumas. Can see the northern tip of Long Island in the bottom right-hand corner

After The Hermitage we walked back toward the shore road, turned right (north) to walk past the small cluster of “take-aways”, the Bahamian version of road-side take outs, only these are typically colorful and often sell beer and mixed drinks. Counted about 6 or 7; only 3 open. These tiny take-aways are next to the regatta stand so I imagine that during New Bight’s annual sailing regatta (one of the best because the harbor is large and unobstructed) business is brisk.

Along the beach-side road are a bunch of colorful take-aways- and a phone booth

Along the beach-side road are a bunch of colorful take-aways- and a phone booth

Lula’s drew our attention and Lula herself was welcoming and made sure we came in to see what she offered. Impressive: cold drink, mixed drinks, beer, snacks and best of all baked goods. After a taste of her coconut pie (more like a tart with soft crust and a filling like Lorraine’s Mom uses for her bread), how could we not have it for our coconut-loving selves.

We sure were delighted to come across Lula's

We sure were delighted to come across Lula’s

Along the way our coconut-spying eyes found a likely suspect on the ground; plenty of liquid and heavy. Visions of Bateau Ortolan coconut bread danced in our heads.

In the middle of the beach were large spigot thingys for three hefty hoses to attach to.

Fuel hose receptacle on the beach in New Bight

Fuel hose receptacle on the beach in New Bight

A few yards up was the road and across the road were large fuel tanks. Not every settlement receives fuel and not all that do have enough depth at a dock to accommodate a fuel freighter. Those settlements with shallower harbors use this method: the freighter anchors out (past where you see us anchored) and long, very long hoses are run to shore and hooked up to these faucets.

Fuel freighter anchors off the beach and runs in long hoses

Fuel freighter anchors off the beach and runs in long hoses

The Church of the Holy Redeemer was along the way and in addition to the church itself, was a rectory building, what looked like a small carriage/garage, a storage structure and around back an outhouse (educated guess based on the seat inside).

Father Jerome's final church project

Father Jerome’s final church project

Beautiful interior with several tiny enclaves in the side walls and Bapistry a half-level down

Beautiful interior with several small cut-outs in the side walls and Bapistry a half-level down

Outhouse (?) no longer in use- thankfully

Outhouse (?) no longer in use- thankfully

As we climbed back aboard Ortolan, I heard a sound and then I got it- big groan- we’d (ok ME) left the propane switch on in the galley and the one hour warning voice was announcing “Propane left on, Warning, propane left on.” Darn. First time ever we’d left the boat and forgotten the switch.

Our afternoon foray involved landing at a beach closer to the market. Directions provided by an ActiveCaptain reviewer said to use the beach at the abandoned resort with the three ink buildings. A Twilight Zone setting complete with plastic chairs still inside, an outdoor bar with stools, curtains hanging and signs indicating Twin Palms Resort. Any minute the place could spring to life; the creepy feeling we were not alone sat heavy.

We head over to land Bunting at the abandoned resort

We head over to land Bunting at the abandoned resort

Our directions guided us to take the road with tiny wooden bridge across Musgrove Creek then turn left at the main road. At the creek we could see an arched entry that looked like- what else- another forsaken resort? A large sign at the main road told part of the story; those who wander by can create their own ending.

Looks impressive, but best we could see not much has happened since 2007

Looks impressive, but best we could see not much has happened since 2007

Perhaps more in New Bight than we’ve seen elsewhere- a close second being Long Island- are small concrete homes abandoned when a family member died which required that a new home be built.

A rare specimen with wall art- kinda Mexican farmer looking to me

A rare specimen with wall art- kinda Mexican farmer looking to me

In sharp contrast to those was a walled home a bit further out of New Bight central that prompted the words, “Bahamian mansion”. Workers were on-site as were several hens and a rooster.

Not too many homes owned by locals look like this

Not too many homes owned by locals look like this

The lawn looked like that low Bermuda grass stuff we’d been seeing around, which explains the lawnmower noticed earlier. Did you see it in the photo of Russ on the stone seats in the prior post?

The New Bight Market was as promised; clean and well-stocked. Good thing our supply of Bounty was ample; who would pay this price?

Curious to know who pays this price

Curious to know who pays this price

Cheapy brands are available for around $2/roll in a pinch in most markets. When Exuma Market had an unheard of two-week-long sale on paper towels at $1/roll we scooped up six to use as shop towels around the boat since the 10 from CT ran out the week before. Paper towels, Scotts Boat and RV toilet paper, K-cups, various protein bars, cans of cashews, real maple syrup, contact lens solution and all our supplements are provisions we don’t leave FL without a 4-month supply. I’d like to put tonic water into that same category because only Schweppes is available here and our taste buds prefer Canada Dry, Polar or any store brand to Schweppes, but we couldn’t find room for more than 50 bottles – just kidding.

Spacious and well-stocked New Bight Market

Spacious and well-stocked New Bight Market

Our weather today was sunny with a moderate breeze, wind out of the ESE and a high temp of 82F. Lovely. Saturday promised to be a great sailing-back-to-Exumas day. Always fuel conscious, we sure hoped so. We’d added about 20 gals of diesel in George Town before we left and didn’t plan to add more until Abacos.

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Jumpin’ Jumentos! : Perils at Water Cay

Heading west with Hog Cay off to the right

Heading west with Hog Cay off to the right

“Be Prepared”. The wise Boy Scout motto applies also to cruisers, travelers, and just about everyone alive I guess. When cruising outside the U.S. or Canada which for us means, “in the Bahamas”, one must think two steps ahead of today’s needs and desires. Chances are the ONE time you don’t plan ahead will be the one time you end up SOL, or close enough for a stinky whiff.

This little ditty is about our intrepid cruisers, Russ and Lori, aboard s/v Ortolan, accompanied by water taxi m/v Bunting, as they take a chance and make it happen further south than they’ve ever ventured before.

Sunday and the 8:30am cruisers’ Net compliments of Mike, not only with weather and local events but always ends on a happy note with a great joke or funny story. After the weather checking ritual is complete and with at least four days of favorable winds and NO cold front predicted, the captain proposes a short trip down to the northern Jumentos. Time enough to stop at Water Cay and Flamingo Cay… and we know there be lobsters in those waters just waiting to jump in your dinghy.

So, you didn’t get those extra food items at the market yesterday, no cell service to get updated weather and the propane is dangerously low, but hey we can motor-sail and make water on the way. Me thinks that with half the boats having already departed for “somewhere” perhaps the captain felt a tad competitive …. I’m just saying. At 9:40 the 44nm trip to Water Cay commences. The first 15nm is heading back west toward the back side of White Cay and Hog Cay (not the Hog Cay on Long Island) which sit at the tip of the Exuma chain. At the Comer West way point hang a left to head SW toward the Jumentos Cays. The forecast was sun and clouds with rain showers likely. True enough, although more rain was seen off in the distance than rinsed the boat.

The Explorer Chart book has this to say about the Jumentos Cays and Ragged Islands: “Self-reliance is essential… go with plenty of food, water, fuel, medicines and weather-reporting equipment…there are no marinas, no BASRA help, little fresh water and few supplies…ocean swells come around the cays.. the only settlement is tiny Duncan Town with a population around 100.”

If that’s not enough to alarm even experienced cruisers then what would? So why come here? Pristine remoteness, abundant coral reefs, great shelling and well, lobsters. A bit of adventure just to prove you are not simply another chicken in the harbor.

Water Cay is the first place suitable to anchor and when we arrived at 4:20 two cats were anchored with just enough room for us. Virtually no ocean swell and the following day was odd as the wind was low and variable.??????????????????

The next morning the exploration began in earnest. First, we headed toward Little Water Cay which sits just above Water Cay with approx 1/10 mile of water separating the two. Low tide prevented a beach landing and a large swell kept us off a sandy spot further up. ????????????????????????????????

So we turned south to check out the cut through the island and low tide proved to be a blessing for landing the dinghy.????????????????????????????

The distinctive cry of osprey caught our attention; sure enough two osprey ruled their territory and became very unhappy that we’d invaded their space?????????????????????????????????

I took this photo as the angry osprey was intent on forcing us away from his home. They both flew over us, at times quite close. We read the message loud and clear; good thing the shells were on the beach further away from the nest.?????????????????????

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So much for a favorable forecast.  Silly us to believe that “sun” meant “no rain” and certainly no waterspouts!! Shortly after lunch we saw this one about 5nm to our east, moving north.?????????????????????

Two minutes later it had diminished and we all breathed a huge sigh of relief. Right as we spotted the spout (the most fully formed one we’d ever seen) another cat was heading into the area from the south. “Catamarans at Water Cay, water-spout warning” boomed the Scottish voice from s/v Sam the Skull (isn’t that a great name?)  We acknowledged and assured them the spout was heading north (not west toward us).

A short time later, the sky not making any promises, we jumped in our water taxi to check out further south along Water Cay. Not much to see, just an old fishing trawler wrecked up against the rocks, not even in enough water to make a good fish haven. As we turned back, guess what was visible between the island’s small hills? Wouldn’t you know it- another spout- this one closer and way more menacing. Zooming as fast as our puny 8HP outboard (with duo fins assist) could go, we covered the mile+ quickly stopping to warn Sam the Skull who was lobster hunting and had no way to see the spout. As fast as we moved, he beat us to his boat and raised his dinghy.

Oh boy, at this point I’m wondering do we raise anchor and move?  If our Scottish friend does, do we?  If a hard-core cruiser is worried, then I am too. Because of our nearness to shore, the spout was too close to see but we checked the radar to confirm it was indeed less than two miles away, heading north. I guess spouts travel in a straight line pretty much, plus we had land between the anchored boats and the spout. Positive thinking anyway.