Man o’ War

Our memories of a brief stop at Man o’ War Cay five years ago are a bit fuzzy, but I know that the settlement is more vibrant and lively than we recall. Even Guana Cay seemed busier than before.  All good news; cruisers, vacationers and locals all benefit from prosperity.

The trouble with Man o’ War is the mooring fields, the balls are not well marked as to ownership and many are very close together. Great way to meet someone when your stern is two feet away from their bow. The wind beat the forecast by 5 kts so we enjoyed a 2 hour brisk sail but had to tack to do it. No Antsy Lori on this trip as we were moving right along close hauled at 6kts.

The marina directed us to a mooring in front of another boat and we immediately became the “show”. Or usual mooring attachment set up was going to leave our stern hitting the mono behind us. He wasn’t overly concerned and said getting the pennant up on deck would keep us away. Was a fun maneuver with the strong wind while the poor soul at the helm tried to keep from hitting the other boat until the lines could be rigged right and at the same time moving the boat forward toward the mooring ball. We got it done and headed in so we could do what we came for- see the museum which would close in an hour. After all that messing about it better be open.

Our very close neighbor

Today's docent is a 78 yr old resident with many memories

It was and a lovely museum to boot. Man o’ War was settled by Loyalists who remain conservative, keeping the island “dry.”  We wonder if that tradition has any bearing on Man o’ War’s long history of productivity, most notably as renowned boat builders and sail makers.

One of the displays showed an open ledger book from the hardware store of items that Langosta purchased in 1951. I thought that was a very clever tie-in to local history. You may recall that Langosta was the vessel Randolph Johnston acquired a few months after arriving in Man o’ War with his family. They later made their home in Little Harbor.

Supplies sold to the Johnstons of Langosta

Several 45s are displayed over a door frame with a sign suggesting you take them down to show your kids; who if under a certain age, may never have seen one, let alone heard of them! Was it really 40 years ago I received a surprise gift on the family phonograph; the Archies, “Sugar, Sugar.”

Man o’ War is several miles long and not very wide, so a walk across to the Atlantic Ocean side takes 10 mins. Land for a cemetery was set aside many years ago, only problem is that it is a stone’s throw from the beach. Storms have flooded the graves which are in process of being re-built in concrete to protect the contents.

Cemetery receiving a "body lift"

The few gift shops are excellent shopping and here’s how it went down: (sung to the Barefoot Man’s Nippers song)

When you get cut off in Abaco, man you’ve spent too much

When the Captain tears you from the shops while you yell and cuss

You get run over by a golf cart while your packages you clutch

When you get cut off in Abaco, man you’ve spent too much!

The sail shop no longer produces sails, instead they make totes and bags of ALL shapes and sizes. I bought a large bag to hold my loot- which did include groceries. No, just joking about the bag. Gleaned ideas for one we want to make. Island Treats sells Edy’s ice cream; the temptation was too much- we caved but only bought kiddie size.  My mouth cried out in wonder “ice cream!!! Thought you’d never get around to that again!!” Russ just ate his.

Albury's Sail Shop as seen from the harbor

Royal Island, Eleuthera to Abaco

A photo from the prior day since I was too occupied to take any today. Today did not look this pretty.

Saturday, March 3 – can you believe it’s March already? We’ve begun to feel like residents, after 68 days. Friday’s 48 nm sail might be the last good weather day for a while now. We anchored in Royal Island Harbor (nothing to write home about and the site of another suspended marina/resort project) near a Great Harbor 37 (red hull with white topsides) cleverly named Jack of Hearts. Could the owner’s name be Jack perhaps?

Up and at ‘em on Saturday for the 63nm trip to Abaco; see how the trips are getting longer? No problem with enough wind to sail today (18-21kts with a mid-day lull to 13) – no sir, but even Ms. Sails Well Close-Hauled has trouble at 170 degrees. A following sea is Ok though and boy did those large swells follow us all day. We tacked slightly off course, back and forth all day as we couldn’t sail fast enough off course to make up the extra distance. We had to be in and anchored before dark; and we did make it with time to spare- 5pm anchor went down and we were pooped after 10 hours.

About an hour into the trip, Jack of Hearts hailed us and we chatted the usual topics; where headed, nice boat, yours too, stable ride, weight, oh, from Maine?, our boat is a Maine Cat, see you in Abaco. Was good to know someone else was heading the same way, since our course basically takes us into the Atlantic Ocean.

Our ever-present third crew member, Herr Otto Pilot gets very cranky with large swells- he says “not so swell for me” and thus leaves the two remaining crew to the task of hand steering. The cut was a non-event at Little Harbor and we nearly overtook the monohull who’d left Royal Island 30mins ahead of us.