George Town Parting Shots

Some call it chicken harbor, others offer this one, “a trailer park combined with junior high”- ooo- zing!  Hole One is the “fruit bowl” among the regulars; several of the house boats are named after fruits- cantaloupe, mango, etc. Some cruisers arrive and never travel further, others can’t wait to leave. With more to do here than you can spike a volleyball at, great provisioning and your choice of anchorages, Elizabeth Harbor is also a good jumping-off spot for Long Island, The Jumentos, Cat Island and Conception.

Regardless, the time has come our calendar says, to mosey along and visit the Bahama cays and islands we missed when we zoomed down here. Hard to believe we sailed in here on Dec 12, with less than 30 boats anchored. The latest count is 225, including a rare 190 ft yacht, Intuition II.

This used to be the Red Shanks Yacht Club- lined with conch shells instead of burgees and usable only at low tide

This used to be the Red Shanks Yacht Club- lined with conch shells instead of burgees and usable only at low tide

We explored the beach on the harbor side of Red Shanks. This is one determined tree.

We explored the beach on the harbor side of Red Shanks. This is one determined tree.

Had a run-in with a monohull!  Or maybe the photo just looks that way

Had a run-in with a monohull! Or maybe the photo just looks that way

We'd be leaving before friends Cort and Carolyn returned, so we hung with their newly delivered concrete blocks instead :-)

We’d be leaving before friends Cort and Carolyn returned, so we hung with their newly delivered concrete blocks instead 🙂

Inside the market- just like you might find at home. Happy mon!

Inside the market- just like you might find at home. Happy mon!

Prime Island picks up cruisers in their truck- too comfy will piss off the taxis

Prime Island picks up cruisers in their truck- too comfy will piss off the taxis

I scored some chocolate chip cookies with nuts- delicious!

I scored some chocolate chip cookies with nuts- delicious!

My final parting shot goes like this: The very day we’d heard the “trailer park/jr high” description a story was told to us from a different source that portrayed it with pathetic accuracy. Say the cruisers in the harbor have a bake sale to benefit the local school and cruisers are asked to bake and/or buy; no set prices (can’t be that organized with a setting of picnic tables under the casuarinas by Volley Ball Beach), just pay/donate what you’d like to give. And say someone who you ( the Mayor-ess of the harbor) knew (and this someone supplies you with sea treasures to hand out to your peeps) arranged with you ahead of time that they wanted to surprise their spouse with a hefty amount of the item you were baking.  Follow that?

Does it matter that much if the entire pie is purchased by someone, or if it’s sold among 5 different people? And if your cliquey friends helping out didn’t bake it, where do they get off telling the person how many slices can be bought and override an agreement? So petty and so what if not enough admiration is bestowed upon your creation before it gets sold off in chunks? Ok, I’m done.  See you on Cat Island.

Battle of the Breads

Cruising in the Bahamas often finds one in a feast or famine condition.

No really "famine" just an urgent fridge defrosting on Christmas Eve.

Not really “famine” just an urgent fridge defrosting on Christmas Eve.

This may be a slight exaggeration but still it seems that we have either stocked up to the point of bursting or we’re down to our last carrot, sustained only by.. you guessed it- rum. I’m making a broad statement there, but usually we find that one or two food items end up in that feast or famine category. Coconut bread, especially the real deal (not a commercial one) was our first searched for foodstuff in the Bahamas. Hours, days would be more like it, of pouring through books, websites, cruising forums and the Explorer chart books, assured us that coconut bread paved roads awaited us. A feast I tell you.

Our first winter began in the Berrys where you’d be hard pressed to find a morsel of food let alone a baked good. Flo’s was once “the” place to get a meal and coconut bread. As it turned out we considered ourselves lucky to have scored a meal, calling ahead the day before to say we’d be there. (didn’t help that we were very early in the season) However, we did not give up and even stooped to buying a commercial loaf in Nassau just to make French toast. As we traveled down the Exuma chain, becoming more desperate with each passing island, our pot of coconut thankfully appeared at the yellow house in Staniel Cay. A fresh home-baked bread, a step up from a commercial loaf, but not quite what we’d hoped for. Our next stop, Black Point should have been where we found manna from heaven, but an ostrich could not have had its head in the sand any more than we did and we missed out on Mom’s bread. A small blessing at least was that we had no clue what we’d missed; until our next visit.

So then we arrive in George Town, home of Mom’s Bakery. More like Mom’s Bakery is further south but she’d drive up to GT in her van loaded with baked goods and of course, coconut bread. Surely, this would be the place. Our SSCA webinar, “First Timers Guide to the Exumas” promised Mom’s Bakery van in GT. You can guess what we found, or rather didn’t find when we arrived; yep, no Mom’s Bakery van. Mom’s age and health kept her away. One announcement was made on the Net that maybe she’d be coming up, but sadly that didn’t happen. The bakery is run, so we understand, by her daughter and on occasion Exuma Market will have Mom’s Bakery breads on the shelf.

By now you are thinking, “why don’t we just bake our own?” Not so easily done, plus we wanted to be authentic and use fresh grated coconut meat; not that sweet shredded stuff in a package. My compromise was to bake a sweet dessert-like coconut quick bread that used cream of coconut and then the sweet shredded stuff was acceptable. Tasty on its own; it was not French toast material.

Fast forward to the present and our third year in the Bahamas; we’ve finally enjoyed several loaves of what we believe to be the best coconut bread in the Bahamas. Lorraine’s mom at Black Point; perhaps you recall me raving about it more than once 🙂

Bread number one in the battle of the coconut breads in the Black Point corner: Black Point Mom.

Black Point Mom's coconut bread. Mom bakes other types, but this one rocks

Black Point Mom’s coconut bread. Mom bakes other types, but this one rocks

This year we zoomed to GT to be sure we arrived enough ahead of our son flying in for the holidays.  Not many cruising boats and not many vacationers or winter villa owners around. So we get to the market and there on the shelf is a loaf of Mom’s Bakery coconut bread. Halleluiah!  Grabbed that quick as a wink. Could we be so lucky to now have three loaves of coconut bread on board?  Yes- the feast has begun.

Bread number two in the battle, in the George Town corner: George Town Mom.

George Town Mom's coconut bread. Fresh grated coconut meat is throughout the loaf

George Town Mom’s coconut bread. Fresh grated coconut meat is throughout the loaf

On our trip to Long Island with Benj, we received a gift of two coconuts in addition to the one Benj dispatched himself. Russ, our on board bread baker, had already found a recipe online for Bahamian Coconut Bread and now that we had fresh coconut meat to grate we’d see how ours would compare.

Bread number three in the cruising corner: s/v Ortolan (you could think “Dad” for fun).

Here’s how we made ours.

Climb a tree and cut down a ripe one- or select one off the ground, like most do

Climb a tree and cut down a ripe one- or select one off the ground, like most do

We used our heavy duty large chef's knife to cut around the outer husk first

We used our heavy-duty large chef’s knife to cut around the outer husk first

Not a job for weaklings; rip open the outer husk after you cut all the way around

Not a job for weaklings; rip open the outer husk after you cut all the way around

We were surprised that the nut sits at the bottom not in the middle

We were surprised that the nut sits at the bottom not in the middle

Crack open the coconut and save the milk- or add gin and drink it, then nap

Crack open the coconut and save the milk- or add gin and drink it, then nap ‘cuz you must be pooped by now

Russ grated enough for the bread; the rest we cut into easy-to-snack-on morsels

Russ grated enough for the bread; the rest we cut into easy-to-snack-on morsels

Boil the milk from one coconut with water, then pour over shredded coconut and let steep

Boil the milk from one coconut with water, then pour over shredded coconut and let steep

Mix ingredients, stir in flour and divide dough into two bread loaf pans

Mix ingredients, stir in flour and divide dough into two bread loaf pans

If the dough looks a bit moist here, well it is. The recipe, unfortunately did not give an exact liquid quantity so we went with what we had and hoped the result would be OK.

The result. Extra baking time and a bit heavy but loaded with coconut

The result. Extra baking time and a bit heavy but loaded with coconut

Did our bread pass the french toast test? Yes- as long as you have plenty of egg batter. It soaks up a lot, but is tasty and so effortless. 🙂  Next time we’ll use less liquid and determine the exact quantity. We are down to our last slice; time to hunt down more coconuts and I know just where to find them now that we are back at Long Island.