Stonington- aka Hope Springs

View of Watch Hill, RI from our anchorage off Napatree Beach

View of Watch Hill, RI from our anchorage off Napatree Beach

With a wind shift to the NW due Wednesday we opted to head over to Stonington Harbor later on Tuesday after the fog lifted and the rain stopped. The wind so far had been a very agreeable mostly 3-10kts but Wed’s shift to NW was to bring 15-20kts and Napatree offered noting but fetch from that direction.  Stonington Harbor is just around the corner and in 35 mins we were anchored in the tiny anchorage set between two mooring fields. With room for maybe 5 well-placed boats, this space is a token anchorage; heck we and one other boat were quite happy to have it and not pay $45/night for a mooring.

Looking out to a small slice of the mooring-packed harbor from atop the lighthouse museum

Looking out to a small slice of the mooring-packed harbor from atop the lighthouse museum

A bazillion sailing craft in the harbor, plenty of Optis and other small sailing vessels out every day joy sailing and racing makes for fine scenery against the backdrop of lovely historic homes.

A fine day in the harbor for small craft sailing

A fine day in the harbor for small craft sailing

Most of the Hope Springs in-town scenes were filmed in Stonington along Water Street. Noah’s was turned into the Nor’easter Diner, the street wetted to enhance the look and the one-way traffic switched around “because it filmed better that way.”

Is it Noah's or Nor'easter Diner?

Is it Noah’s or Nor’easter Diner?

The architect office across the street acquired the “marriage counseling” sign and hung it below theirs; making for a puzzling display.

A very diverse firm- architects and marriage counseling a la Hope Springs

A very diverse firm- architects and marriage counseling a la Hope Springs

Twice a week in season, the historical society offers a walking tour of the “boro.” We were in town, the weather was beautiful, so why not? We learned more about local history, town characters and homes than I can regurgitate here (or remember).

Can you decipher this?

Can you decipher this?

One of numerous beautifully landscaped properties in the boro.

One of numerous beautifully landscaped properties in the boro.

Stonington is home to the last remaining commercial fishing fleet in Connecticut. Over near the commercial docks you will find the very unique Stonington Seafood Harvesters, Inc. The small building with the red awning at 4 High St offers self-serve cases of frozen-aboard-ship fish, scallops, shrimp and stuffies. The BI swordfish was so delicious that we went back for more the next day.

One of two price signs. You can pay by credit card, check or cash. Easy.

One of two price signs. You can pay by credit card, check or cash. Easy.

One of the boro's commercial fishing fleet heads out

One of the boro’s commercial fishing fleet heads out. Watch Hill lighthouse in background.

Always on the lookout for a decent bakery we spied a sign for Zest housed over in the old velvet factory.

Zest Bakery at the old Velvet Factory

Zest Bakery at the old Velvet Factory- their muffins were super-sized & delicious

In 1996 the 104-year-old American Velvet Factory announced it was forced to close its doors and move operations to Virginia within two years. Reborn, as old factories often are (thank goodness) into a haven for artists, a glass blower, a potter and a niche bakery the factory is clean and expansive. You can almost feel the velvet.

Overhead photo of the factory- note the multi-peaked roof that brings in more light

Overhead photo of the factory- note the multi-peaked roof that brings in more light

Our ½ mile walk took us over the Amtrak tracks; how thoughtful to provide covered walkways where the road was sliced to make way for the tracks.

A train came along as we walked overhead

A train came along as we walked overhead

Thursday’s lunch found us at Skipper’s Dock; let me recommend the Blood Orange Margarita. Aphrodite was tied up at the dock awaiting her passengers for the return trip to Watch Hill. I correctly picked the restaurant’s patrons who would be returning. Perhaps the  perfect, yet casual attire, even for those under 15, as well as many lobster shells gave them away. We had a few minutes to get closer before she took off; I mean who wouldn’t want to get an eyeful not to mention a ride in this gleaming beauty.

Aphrodite leaving the dock, heading back to Watch Hill

Aphrodite leaving the dock, heading back to Watch Hill

Do we stay or go? What to do with weather so wonderful; almost anything you want. Our next stop was going to be Mystic but the Brewer’s marina there told us they don’t take catamarans (well!). Another marina had moorings at $1.50/ft; ouch. We could pay that at Shelter Island. Anchoring opportunities were limited; however, we wanted to make a move Friday and where there’s a will (named Russ) there’s a way. Stay tuned.

We run away

Monday, August 5 and what fun cruising destinations have we entered in our log? Ah, none. OK maybe one if you count stopping at Dutch Harbor and Jamestown on our way to Barrington, RI. Determined to salvage our remaining time before heading south, perhaps in September this year, Russ said, “we’re going somewhere for a few days.” Block? No, too far. Greenport/Shelter Island? Almost won out but the mooring fee in Derring Harbor was $60, so that left Sag Harbor; not too hard to take. We could anchor outside the breakwater in good holding sand; the weather promised perfection for our visit. But could those big white hankies be of any use? Wind at our stern; check. True wind speed 10-15; check. Waves 1-2 ft; check. No problem with that, right? None, except that the wind was exactly smack dead behind us so motor-sailing with the boom complaining was the mode until we’d passed thru Plum Gut into Gardiner’s Bay. There, after avoiding the Orient Point ferries, our course across the Bay toward Sag would allow those Yanmars to go silent. The apparent wind was ideal, the Bay mere wavelets and for a while we had all three sails in action screaming along at 8kts.

Sag Harbor last had the pleasure of a Rackliffe visit in 2007 shortly before we sold our Sea Ray 320. Much was unchanged, but our favorite ice cream shop had closed. Main St was busy for a Tuesday but not crowded. Staying in “tradition” mode we enjoyed lunch outside under the umbrellas at Dockside across from the town docks and park. I was delighted to find crab stuffed squash blossoms on the menu; I just love these babies.

Swordfish wrap and crabmeat stuffed squash blossoms- yum!

Swordfish wrap and crabmeat stuffed squash blossoms- yum!

Years ago (as in 40 plus), according to the Captain’s memory, very few if any boats would anchor outside the breakwater. Over the years private moorings have popped up filling the space inside the breakwater and some outside it as well. Still plenty of room for mega yachts, mega sailing cats and the rest of us wee folk. Not to mention a few zip-about boats.

The BIG cat dwarfs the rest of us

The BIG cat dwarfs the rest of us

Surrounded by fun filled boat wakes

Surrounded by fun filled boat wakes

The annual Fireman’s Carnival began Tuesday night- yippee! Fried dough!  Except not here 😦  Zeppoles, fried Oreos and funnel cakes only. We opted for the filling but very unhealthy bag of 6 zeppoles – $5! Guess we are not only in the Hamptons, but a bit out of touch with carnival prices these days.  A ride bracelet cost $30 and more on the weekend.  The carnival was set up on Haven’s Beach, two stone throws away from us. Years ago when we’d take our boat to Sag, our son being quite young then, we’d walk the mile from the town docks to Haven’s Beach.  “Uppy Daddy”, he would request when the walking was too unbearable for such a small person.

Sag Harbor Firemans' Carnival ready to go

Sag Harbor Firemans’ Carnival ready to go

Russ’s family would venture out nearly every summer weekend; a destination off Gardiners Bay the usual choice. This could mean Coecles Harbor (with a plethora of jellies) or Sammy’s Beach (lots of clams) with an occasional treat visit to Sag Harbor or Greenport thrown in. M/V Omar K, a 30’ Elco served the family well and provided endless opportunity to hone those bottom sanding and painting skills as well as engine trouble diagnosis and repair.

A very young Russ working on the stern of the Elco

A very young Russ working on the stern of the Elco

Russ and Jack owned numerous runabouts; what a classic way to have fun. Then Jack went over to the dark side and became a sailor while Russ stayed true to the family regime of power craft. Did I say “dark side”? No. That side isn’t darker just more difficult, resulting in a greater sense of satisfaction.

The lovely basket of flowers given by Russ’s cousins, aunt and uncle came along with us to the Copper Beech and not wishing for its early demise, we brought it back aboard with us. We re-purposed it as a memory as if the flowers were ashes and scattered them along the way from Sag Harbor back to CT.

Scattered flowers for Dad Rackliffe- float on.

Scattered flowers for Dad Rackliffe- float on.