Queen of the Fleet

CG Cutter Smilax and her work barge replace ICW daymark near Carolina Beach

CG Cutter Smilax and her work barge replace ICW daymark near Carolina Beach

To pass the time and keep my mind from getting too mushy, I pay attention (often to the extreme) to the names of boats we meet, see along the way or simply hear on the VHF. Boat cards go in a large bill-fold like keeper that was originally designed for business cards. In addition, when we began cruising I grabbed the nearest pad of paper and started writing down the names of boats we interacted with or just heard them a lot on the VHF. This compulsive behavior (bet you have one too) doesn’t carry over to commercial or government vessels unless the name or situation is unusual- but if that’s the case then a photo was probably added to the thousands I’ve taken.

In mid-April during our very short trip from Carolina Beach to Wrightsville Beach, NC we passed by the CG cutter Smilax, who, along with her work barge, was replacing intracoastal marker G153 along the channel’s edge. Being a very impressive and new sight for us, I quickly put the binoculars and camera to work and made a short notation in the log.

Fast forward to late summer and a chapter in the book, Ghost Ships by Richard Winer the author of The Devil’s Triangle. The paperback is a compilation of 33 true stories of nautical nightmares, disasters and hauntings. One of the chapters details several bizarre encounters that Coast Guard vessels have had over the years. The first one starts off, “In October 1954, the Coast Guard buoy tender Smilax was proceeding north from Brunswick, GA, to various points along the South Carolina coast…….” Wait a second. My brain whirred as I thought back to the CG cutter we’d seen in April. Yes, I know she was the Smilax. I’m known for saying, “we’ve seen that boat before.” Could this be the same vessel 59 years later!!?? A quick google and sure enough, she’s one and the same. The all-knowing Wikipedia provided proof-positive photos and historical info, some of which I’ve included here for your reading pleasure.

“Smilax was built by Dubuque Boat & Boiler Works in Dubuque, Iowa. Her keel was laid on 26 November 1943, she was launched on 18 August 1944, and commissioned 1 November 1944. Built as a 100-foot bay and sound tender at a cost of $194,238, she required a year to build at a time when most ships were built in 40 days, making her the most expensive ship of her class.

After commissioning, Smilax was assigned to the Seventh District and was stationed at Fort Pierce, Florida where she engaged in the aids to navigation mission. From 1 June 1954 to 9 November 1965, she was homeported out of New Smyrna Beach, Florida. While stationed in Florida she assisted on several search and rescue cases.

After twenty years of service, Smilax was refitted with new engines, and given a 70-foot barge.

In July 1999, Smilax moved to her current homeport of Atlantic Beach, North Carolina, relieving her sister ship USCGC Primrose (WLIC-316) of her aids to navigation duties.

Smilax‘s mission, since her commissioning, has been to service aids to navigation, ensuring the safe navigation of mariners. From her current homeport she is responsible for maintaining 1,226 fixed aids to navigation such as lights and range markers. She is also responsible for 26 buoys throughout the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

March 2011, upon the decommissioning of USCGC Acushnet (WMEC-167), Smilax became Queen of the Fleet. Queen of the Fleet is the oldest commissioned cutter in Coast Guard service. This distinction is denoted by gold hull numbers on the bow of the ship.”

How cool to have seen the Queen of the Fleet in the year she will turn 70 and to know her story.

Footnote: on October 28, 2013 while we happily beachcombed at Cape Lookout, Smilax was lifting cannons from the wreck site of the Queen Anne’s Revenge; Blackbeard’s ship.

A Quickie at Oriental, NC

Looking at the breakwater and commercial fishing vessels inside as we approach

Looking at the breakwater and commercial fishing vessels inside as we approach

Our adjustable trip planner (I am going to patent this) is getting a workout. After several iterations and finally deciding on this sequence, starting with where we’d anchor Saturday night: Juniper Bay, Oriental, Beaufort (anchor at Ft Macon) then jump outside Tuesday to Wrightsville Beach (Masonboro Inlet), we changed it in the blink of an “ah-ah” moment.

Just before reaching Oriental, I looked at our planner. Russ had just updated it with the new NOAA forecast. Hum, let’s see, virtually no wind tonight and tomorrow showed very light winds out of the East. We had an extra day available if we made Sunday a long travel day to Ft Macon. Duh- let’s go to Cape Lookout! Ever since we heard that it is a slice of Bahamas transported and plopped six miles off Beaufort, NC, we’ve tried to get out there. Last spring we came within a day of getting out there, but you know the tune- yep the weather turned crappy. But here we are, lady luck sitting on the tramps again. She’s felt chilly at night when the temps drop to 48 but she warms right up during the daytime highs of mid-sixties. This constant climate change means regular outfit changes throughout the day of course.

Two choices immediately presented themselves. One, we could skip Oriental and go straight out to Cape Lookout tonight. Or we could spend less than two hours in Oriental, pick up a few groceries, then end the day at Beaufort’s Ft Macon. We’d make the short trip out to Cape Lookout mid-morning and spend the day. Tuesday as planned, we’d head for Wrightsville Beach, the detour to Cape Lookout only adding two miles to our 70nm day. So what’s a couple more when you are already pushing hard to do 70?

I needed more fresh veggies and fruit; eating and cooking healthy consumes a lot of produce 🙂  We anchored outside the breakwater at 12:50- so daring- and zoomed in. Half of the limited anchoring space inside the breakwater is filled with long-termers. One in particular, is the hot, hot topic in town and on the Cruiser’s Forum. So hot that the thread was recently closed down after over 300 comments, some no doubt, releasing some steam with that heat.

This boat from France arrived on Sandy's heels; maybe another good storm is needed

This boat from France arrived on Sandy’s heels; maybe another good storm is needed

At 2:10 Ms Ortolan welcomed us back and off we motored the remaining 23nm to Ft Macon near the Beaufort inlet.  Did you know today is shrimp day? Around here I think every day is shrimp day. We saw no less than five shrimpers heading out; toward Pamlico Sound?

One after the other they came at us as we left Oriental toward Beaufort

One after the other they came at us as we left Oriental toward Beaufort