You may recall from reading the Feb 9th  George Town post that we’d chartered a MC41 out of Hope Town in 2007. The day following our Saturday arrival brought a moderate cold front accompanied by 20-25mph winds. Since our T-shirts read “Extreme Novices- Beware!”, the strong winds kept us on the mooring until Tuesday when Russ threatened  mutiny – we’d power only- no sailing- if only we’d be allowed to go.

Fast forward to Sunday, March 4, 2012 and here we are in Abaco with a nasty cold front gunning for the central Abaco region; Green Turtle Cay to Marsh Harbor. We awoke to SSW winds around 20kts with a forecast of 25 – 30 by mid-day, line squalls approaching from the west ahead of the front line which was to hit between 3 and 4pm, then wind switching to north. Gulp. Not greatly different from the forecast we obtained last Thursday, just that we’re always hopeful of improvement.

Picking up the anchor is always: Russ on deck to remove the bridle and direct me as he uses the windlass switches to raise the anchor. I am at the helm using the proper engine(s) as directed by Russ’s hand signals. If the winds are light I only have to put the engine in gear; only occasionally do I need to us some throttle. Today, Russ warned me that I’d have to “be aggressive” on the throttle. He removes the bridle ok, but suddenly the boat is not aligned well at all to the anchor chain and he begins making every hand motion know to man (well, almost). We now quickly switch places because the end of the anchor chute is bent sideways; guess I wasn’t quick enough nor aggressive enough. Russ does much better; the anchor comes up and back into its place without further incident and now we have a new plan for anchor retrieval with winds >15.

We motor- sailed with the jib, watching the overhead display show the wind speed climbing steadily.  Vulcanchecked in with us; John’s in Hope Town on a mooring and moving back to Marsh Harbor soon. Too sloppy even in the protected Sea of Abaco to run the water maker but once anchored it ran for the entire afternoon. We chose a spot just southeast of Marsh Harbor’s harbor on the east side of Great Abaco Island. This would provide protection mostly from the west but also some from SW through NW.  Better yet, we managed to be near some resort cottages who had un-locked wi-fi to grab. Something to do since our plans to shop in town were down the drain- or blown away is more like it. By 2:30 the wind was gusting over 30kts with 37kts the most I observed.

The waves are breaking nicely today...

Marsh Harbor has a Cruisers’ Net at 8:15 every morning on VHF 68 and just like George Town, weather is the first topic. During the day and just before the squall line, several reports, warnings really, were made on 68, but a look to the west and you couldn’t miss the dark clouds approaching. The squall line brought a quick change in wind direction and we swung 170 degrees from SSW to N in an eye blink, the drag alarms sounded because we’d moved more than 200 ft, the rain poured down and the wind gusted to 35, max.  Places west of Great Abaco gave reports of 70 mph. The temperature dropped to 68 from the afternoon high of 81.

Looking east as the storm passed over us

All in all not a bad event, the Rocna had grabbed right off when we dropped it and for once we didn’t give much thought to a second anchor. Just in case though, Russ attached a trip line with a small red float so we’d know where it was in the event a second anchor appeared desirable.

Now the question was how do we deal with Monday thru Thursday’s forecast of 20-25mph winds? A possible lull on Monday would allow us to head into the protection of a fairly crowded Marsh Harbor with the hope we could get to shore and shop, shop, shop. Oh, propane and laundry too.

After lunch and a quick trip in for wi-fi at Lorraine’s Café and a few necessities (eggs, butter, M&Ms and tonic water) we hauled Bunting, raised the main, raised the anchor (yes, in that order) and set sail for Staniel Cay, an enjoyable 10 nm sail.  Elvis was anchored off the yacht club and we saw yacht M&M with their tender, Peanut.

Wednesday was a perfect day, less than 10 kts wind, sunny and a high of only 76.  Hit the 3 markets and as the boat had not come in lately with fresh fruits and veggies, our best find was a bag of carrots. No bread, but one market had flour. One store had chicken breast halves (bone-in) and although the price on the package was $12, our price (high mark-up due to transportation costs) was $19! Jeeze I thought $12 was pricey for two halves. When I said I’d need to return the chicken to the freezer, the owner, no doubt wanting the sale, cut the price to $14. Ok, I took it and happy to help local businesses. Although this particular one is about on its last legs.

Dinghied over to Thunderball Grotto for a quick snorkel then over to a plane that crashed in shallow water after take-off.

Plane wreck in less than one foot

A close up look at the plane

One problem with many anchoring spots is the current and every time the tide changes the anchor has to re-set and certain types are better at that than others. Our Rocna will handle that if it’s got enough strain on it to tug it around in mud or not-too-hard sand. This is what happens with no strain – the chain just wraps around the anchor and no way will that silly thing be able to dig back in.

Don't think this looks right....

We untangled it and dropped it back in.

Our big treat tonight was dinner at the YC; so far the best dining out we’ve encountered in the Exumas. With the lack of decent “eats”, Russ’s (and mine too sorry to say) eatery of choice is Chez Ortolan. As with every Exuma restaurant, dinner reservations are a must and you make your meal choice ahead. The YC serves a good meal, soup to dessert. Not a loaded plate like you get most places state-side; just enough to fill you up.

During the salad course (which tonight was yummy coleslaw) we perked up at the sound of drums. Umm. The waitress came by to tell the diners “Junkanoo!” and the main course would be held if we wanted to go out and watch. You bet we did. Sorry, no camera. Junkanoo was introduced to the American colonies by slaves from Africa’s western coast and it quickly spread to Jamaica and The Bahamas. One of the steps used in today’s parade is two steps forward and one step back. The history and tradition of Junkanoo in The Bahamas is long and varied- so I’ll skip all that and just say that the “scrap gang” version we watched up close is one you are most likely to see, unless you are in Nassau on Boxing or New Years Day.  Bells, whistles, goombay drums, clappers were employed by the 7 or 8 men who paraded alongside the YC and out to the docks. These instruments – homemade for sure.

We all watched in fascination as the drummers began with a “bringing it up” process that uses a small fire to warm up the goat or sheep skin drum cover. This gets it tight and helps to produce various drum tones- the drums are the core of Junkanoo and my favorite sound.  The group’s leader used a whistle to lead them along at a slow pace with each member imparting his own energy and unique step to the parade. This was a thrill and a real Bahamian treat for us and I am so disappointed I have no photos to show, just a great memory forever etched.