Close Encounters

Broken record time again. Have you wondered how much longer we can say that and others will understand? “Repeat” just doesn’t cut it. So, another cold front is due while we’re in St Augustine; winds over 20kts, clocking around, rain, blah, blah, blah.  As I may have mentioned last fall, the St Augustine is not a “class A” all weather inlet. Even though it was dredged summer 2012, the buoys used to mark the channel are so small you need a damn good spyglass to find them buried in the 3-story high waves that routinely reside there- well ok not that bad- but almost. Many a boat has not only been grounded, but wrecked attempting to use this inlet in less than good conditions. On Friday, a large well-lit sign (if one existed) would have read, “DO NOT USE.”  No worry we’d ever use it again except in mirror glass conditions!

Saturday, and this will lead into a big pet peeve of mine- maybe it bugs others too- we planned a very short day. Our next stop was just across the GA border at the southern end of Cumberland Island by the Dungeness ruins.  Dungeness is pronounced with a slight accent on the “ness”, not the “Dun”.  This trip was a bit too long for one day so we split it in two with the short day first in an attempt to travel longer with favorable currents. That morning the Coast Guard makes one of their mumbled announcements and we catch a few words, “Sister’s Creek, closed to traffic, 3pm.” Uh?  Another befuddled cruiser calls the CG for clarification and we learn that thanks to some “round up” event, the ICW will in fact be closed to boat traffic until 3pm Saturday. Well, thank goodness we’d planned a two-hour day and wouldn’t be going that far.  Then, when we finally hear the announcement in full, the time is given as “from 5pm to 3pm.” Idiots- we know they mean 5am! If English was not our first language those announcements would surely be completely Greek!

The ICW through St Augustine takes you uncomfortably close to the inlet and the spit of beach that sits at the head on the north side. As we approached, this is the site we couldn’t help but stare at. What the? Mr. Curious got the “rest of the story” later.

On the plus side, sand is kinder to a boat than rocks

On the plus side, sand is kinder to a boat than rocks

Seems like the boat with just the captain and his dog aboard, was traveling (not sure north or south, but I’m thinking north) in his 30’ sailboat that only had an outboard engine at the stern. This means that if a wave lifts the stern out, the outboard doesn’t work well. Props like to remain IN the water. He diverted to St Augustine at midnight (Wed/Thurs) due to the approaching front.  A pitch-dark approach may have been a worse choice than continuing to St John’s River 30miles north. The channel, just to make things more exciting, has a dog leg approach close to shore. What are the chances this boat could safely navigate in? He almost made it. As the boat hit bottom and bounced, the beach welcomed it with open arms. Sure hope he got dug out.

For several days we’d been in touch with Indigo. They were in crossing and zooming mode starting Easter Sunday. Shared itineraries, but my words were, “..think we are fated to only meet up once per season.” Saturday’s anchorage was Pine Island with a wide and not too deep creek just off the ICW. By dark four boats called it home. Sunday, we overslept a bit and when I did my usual iPhone checking of emails and weather, the cell signal was too weak so I gave up. Cereal in bowls, milk about to be poured. Russ points out a catamaran heading north. “They must have left early”, I comment, figuring most boats leave from St Augustine. Then, picking up that trusty spyglass, Russ says, “looks like a Chris White… oh wait, it’s Indigo!” Sure enough, those speed demons did 100 miles Saturday, arriving at St Augustine in time to go into town. Glenn had emailed earlier, asking if we were at Pine Island, but I hadn’t gotten it yet, so instead we had a pleasant surprise and kicked fate in the butt. By 10:30 they’d arrived at their destination marina near Jacksonville; flying home that afternoon. Sure, leave us to enjoy the skinny water south of Fernandina.

Indigo drops by to say hello. Until next season then.

Indigo drops by to say hello. Until next season then.

Unlike m/v BIG Wave, we managed to not go aground in the stretch between St John’s River and Fernandina. Unlike m/v BIG Wave, we use ActiveCaptain. We shouldn’t be so smug though. For our trip on Sunday, Russ figured out the tides and currents, which isn’t easy due to the three sizable inlets that would affect us. Since we’re not usually in a rush, we run on one engine to save fuel. Using number two  adds 1 knot of speed at most, so when possible we like to have a favorable current helping us along, but not too much. A stretch south of where the ICW crosses the St John’s River is notorious for very strong current at “maximum”. Kinda like NYC’s Hell Gate, except under a bridge with a very narrow span with a river bend that keeps you from seeing if another boat is approaching. Amounts to choosing the lesser of two weevils (yes, I used that word intentionally); the crappy stretch from Fernandina to St Augustine via the ICW or the offshore run where the St Mary’s inlet at Fernandina is great and St Augustine can suck. We are 3 times inside and 3 times outside.

The trip provided photo-worthy scenery like this osprey with fish

The trip provided photo-worthy scenery like this osprey with fish

So back to the tides and currents: A+ on the currents and D- on having us transit a much shoaled-in stretch at low tide. Mucho thanks to ActiveCaptain and the hazard markers that warned us and told us how to proceed; to the vessels ahead of us; and to our minimal 3ft draft. With a tidal range of 6-7ft from roughly the St John’s River through much of South Carolina, the absence of deep draft boats is as noticeable as is the presence of comments such as, “gee how’d you like that Amelia River stretch?”  In all fairness to the captain, we really didn’t have much choice in where we were and when that day and s/v Cat Ching (get it?) zoomed along fine using his path from last fall. Cheater 🙂

4:30 found us anchored in GA off Cumberland Island, ready for a perfect weather day Monday where we’d finally explore the Dungeness ruins and trails.

Course Change Required- aka A Diversion

Cat Island, home of The Hermitage, was our next planned stop, followed by Little San Salvador and Eleuthera. Oh, but the weather had other ideas for us. Friday promised to be another great sailing day and as it turned out, good thing for that. Cat Island sits approx 30nm NNW of Conception; we left at 7:30 figuring we might be able to go ashore later that afternoon. As we’ve all experienced, the best laid plans often never come to fruition. About 10 miles away from land we got cell service, none obviously available on Conception. The approaching front was looking to have strong SW winds, clocking W, then NW; more of an event than we cared to sit out in Cat’s New Bight with no west protection. Herr Otto Pilot was immediately given a 20 degree course change while the worried crew studied the chart to determine where to run and hide.
And run we did; the course change improved our angle to the wind and we sped along over 8kts, the ever-increasing waves at our stern not bothering us any. Other than trying to get a slip at Hawk’s Nest Marina on Cat Island our only other option was to get over to the Exuma chain, go in a safe cut and find a protected spot. We heard another boat going into Hawk’s Nest but we nixed that figuring not many marinas have much space for cats and did we want to blow the dockage budget anyway? Our excellent heading would take us to the excellent Little Farmer’s Cut; perfect. Anchored by 5:30, a 70nm day behind us, and the next day we’d head 30nm north to try for a mooring at Cambridge Cay (in the ECLSP) with a backup anchoring spot behind Bell Island.

Luckily we had that backup spot because all 14 balls were full. We did not see a single boat underway the entire 30nm trip (5hrs). We were the last boat in behind Bell Island; two monos, one trawler and one yacht before us, but we snagged a perfect spot close in. Gotta love being a cat. The anchor held right off; always a huge plus with big wind coming. For once the front arrived in daylight, although just barely. Here’s the sequence of events beginning around 1pm: Russ checks anchor using kayak, wind picks up, fellow cruiser provides Chris Parker WX update, took showers, watched front approach around 5:30 and rain begins 5:45. The wind topped out at 30kts but mostly we saw 18-22kts although it felt like less. The wind shifted from SW to W, finally settling in for the night at NW. We set out our bucket to catch rainwater. Really felt quite safe and our only worry was hoping that the wind did not shift to N or NE to soon as we’d lose all our protection when it did; then time to go.

What big storm? I can paddle in any weather

What big storm? This gal can paddle in any weather..trying to reach her yacht…

No mistaking this leading edge of a well defined front

No mistaking this leading edge of a well-defined front

Decided this might be a good time to test out ActiveCaptain’s Drag Queen alarm. It worked well during testing and I’m happy to say that the alarm did not sound in the real overnight test. One of my biggest fears is dragging during a windy dark night. Bad enough if your anchor pulls out but imagine if the shackle broke and you became separated from your best friend? Now you’ve got to get things under control (hope you haven’t hit anything behind you) and launch your backup anchor; which we have sitting ready to go at the bow. Not every boat does.
Sunday was a post frontal cloudy, cool day and we kept busy with baking muffins, washing clothes in a bucket and discussing where to move to once the wind shifted north. Considerable discussion also ensued because in very windy conditions I am at the bow while Russ takes the helm. This infrequent role reversal requires establishing good hand signals as well as a backup plan should I have poor job performance. Fortunately we had this: PPPPPP- the 6Ps. Leave a comment if you business folks know what all those Ps stand for. The one possible spot to re-anchor in was on the other side of Bell, which was now in the lee, but a major project was underway so we passed that by and headed down toward a spot on the south end of Pipe Cay.

Commercial? Private? Not sure, but unlike many, it's actively in progress

Commercial? Private? Not sure, but unlike many, it’s actively in progress

Monday after breakfast we moved again for even better protection from ENE winds which had calmed down to a tolerable 14-19kts. Ran the watermaker using solar power thanks to a mostly sunny day- which also was a good day for more bucket laundry (we had to skip BlackPoint so I was WAY overdue for a washing machine). We ended up with a bright yellow neighbor; note the similar cockpit enclosure.

Big yellow cat with matching dinghy

Big yellow cat with matching dinghy