Looking at Woods Hole as we pass by in the passage en route to Hadley

After two nights in Oak Bluffs we once again found ourselves motoring; this time nine miles to Hadley Harbor at the top of the Elizabeth Island chain. Last summer we’d gotten a tip from a local boater who told of free moorings in this lovely, super-protected inner harbor, much like Hamburg Cove only smaller. This would be the perfect stop on our meander up Buzzard’s Bay as we approached the eastern entrance to the Cape Cod Canal, (CCC).
Our 2pm departure was chosen so that we’d have a favorable current as well as not too much of it through the challenging Woods Hole Passage. It’s an irregular S-shaped passage with Buzzards Bay at the NW end and Vineyard Sound at the SE end. Rocks, shoals, tiny islands and ledges lie in wait for your wrong move since the tidal currents don’t run in the direction of navigation. A week ago we heard a sailor radio SeaTow; he was stuck on a rock ledge in the passage. No doubt he was sailing and the current won out over the wind. We studied the chart so much I thought for sure an imprint would remain. When the time came we had no problems mon just a bit unnerving to see more rocks and tight buoys than we are used to.

A long dock is visible on Uncatena Island with Bull Island on the right

With sincere apologies to Hamburg Cove, I rate near-perfect Hadley Harbor as a 5-star peaceful, enchanting, must-visit harbor. All of the Elizabeth Islands, except for Cuttyhunk and nearby Penikese, are held in trust by the Forbes family; an old Boston family and no direct relationship to Malcolm Forbes. You probably have heard of this Forbes family member: John F (for Forbes) Kerry. I wonder if he was named John so that his initials could be JFK?

The main (summer) home on Naushon Island

The Forbes attempt to keep the islands (Naushon, Nashawena, Pasque, Uncatena and Nonamesset are the larger ones) as close to their natural state as possible. Around Hadley harbor the only place to step ashore is Bull Island. With a dinghy dock and picnic area it also serves as a place to walk your dog. The 20 or so moorings are well-spaced and compliments of the Forbes. This works out well for everyone. The bottom is covered with long eel grass which makes for lousy holding and no one wants a boat to drag into another especially if it happens to be a Forbes owned Herreshoff.

Boat house and could these be Herreshoffs?

The m/v Cormorant makes several round trips daily and needs a clear fairway. Boats can anchor off to the side and between where we were (closer to the entrance) and the narrow entrance. The ferry carts trash off the islands, brings supplies such as food and building materials, etc and transports guests and the multitude of family to and fro.

The all-purpose ferry, m/v Cormorant leaves Hadley via the only entrance

An around the islands tour takes you through several gutters which are narrow passages under wooden bridges between some of the islands surrounding Hadley Harbor. When the current is running full force the water rushes through these narrow openings like water shwooshing down a gutter. Don’t laugh, these are labeled Northwest Gutter, etc on the chart.

Northwest Gutter lies between Naushon and Uncatena Island

One of several houses on Uncatena Island- Forbes of course

Looking out toward Vineyard Sound from one of many snug bays between the smaller islands

By this time I have lost track- West Gutter perhaps and a swimming hole just past the bridge

East Gutter- you can see the current beginning to swirl the water

I could have stayed much longer but we wanted to stop at Quisset and take the trolley into Woods Hole before jumping up to Red Brook Harbor for the nasty wind and stormy weather due in Sunday.

Sailing ship Shenandoah heads out of Vineyard Haven harbor

Happy on the beach, happy in the shops, happy dining out and even happy in an island museum. Getting through the museum first is important so that a cultural stop can be ticked off the list for certain. Located in the more la-di-da Edgartown where I am more than happy to visit.

Oak Bluffs, which I have written about before, is a busy harbor even on summer weekdays. We arrived around 11am and found a good ball in the big boat section. The first order of business was laundry! Oak Bluffs has a large public Laundromat near the docks with large front-loaders that almost make you feel like the $6 (please insert 24 quarters) isn’t too pricey.
The second order of business was not business, but doughnuts from Back Door Donuts. The bake shop on Circuit Ave bakes their doughnuts, fritters and fried dough at night and from 7pm until 1am just go around to… their back door, stand in line and get served up fresh, hot out of the fryer doughnuts, fritters, fried dough and whatever else they’ve got.

The line gets longer as the night wears on

Can’t seem to get these elsewhere- chocolate and coconut- yummy!

Wednesday topped out at 77 F with enough breeze to keep sailors and landlubbers happy. Hopped on a MVTA bus bound for Edgartown and as we passed by the long stretch of beach that lies partially in Oak Bluffs and part in Edgartown, one of the two small bridges turned out to be the “Jaws Bridge”, officially known as the American Legion Memorial Bridge. This was quite obvious as several youngsters stood on the wood railing, and jumped into the water that leads to a substantial inland pond (another beach breaching in two spots I guess), perfect for the scene where the shark swims into the “safe” inlet and Brody’s son is traumatized by the attack. Back in 1975 the bridge was all wood which gave it more character than the concrete version we drove over today.
The Martha’s Vineyard Museum is located several small blocks off Main Street which means you want to go there, not simply stumble upon it as you stroll around downtown Edgartown.
Comprised of several structures, including a house, barn, top part of a lighthouse and a climate-controlled exhibit building, the museum was easy, educational and fun to explore. In many places you could use your cell phone or a remote to listen to stories of old and explanations of such contemplations such as, “why are the rooms painted in these colors?”

Pulley power: heavy lifting made easy with a double

Hands on tea sniff and feel. Just break off a small piece for your morning cup

This next item would have stumped us completely if not for the group of kids who received an explanation of how this gadget was used.

A Jagging Wheel from the mid-1800s

Pie crimpers or jagging wheels are among the most common scrimshaw items carved by American 19th century whalemen. They were useful, as well as decorative kitchen implements. The fluted wheel was used to cut dough or seal the top of a pie crust to the sides before baking. The fork was used to decorate the edge and/or poke holes in the upper pie crust to vent the steam created by baking.

A substantial display was devoted to Vineyard life in the era of love and peace. I loved these groovy outfits.  Anyone own something similar?

Famished after all that heavy lifting-lunch at the Atlantic

Our lunch spot was the Atlantic which sat perched not quite right on the harbor but with a partial view of it and the always interesting dinghy dock.

I opted for Katama Bay oysters; fresh from the bay right here in Edgartown, and the rarely seen sautéed baby artichokes.

We sucked down those six oysters so fast that I never got a photo of the fabulous presentation that included artfully placed fresh kelp, teeny bottles of Tabasco and lemon wedges. We think these are the best tasting, plumpest oysters ever to slide down our gullets. Better than Kumamoto or Watch Hill.

My three oysters plus a side order of artichokes made this one of the best lunches I’ve ever had. I love, love artichokes and to see them on the menu, never mind that the preparation was perfect, I was Blissed Out!!

The always on time ferry crosses over to Chappaquiddick by the entrance into the harbor