Arrive at Mile 0

As we inched closer to Portsmouth, VA the boat traffic picked up; mostly motor vessels: cabin cruisers, trawlers and those over-produced Grand Banks Eastbays. Tuesday would see us tucked in at Tidewater Yacht Marina located just off the ICW in Portsmouth, but first we had to deal with five opening bridges and one lock; not to mention the heavy commercial traffic that would begin north of the lock, about 12 miles from the marina.
You may recall that Mile 0 of the ICW is at Portsmouth, VA. The first opening bridge of the day was at mile 20; the last at mile 6. Each one is on a schedule that seems to have been created with some forethought!  What we do is make a list with the mileage and calculate when we need to start out to make the first one, based on when we want to transit the lock. The lock passes northbound boats on the hour and southbound on the half hour.
After the second bridge we had a good idea of the pleasure boats that would be going through the lock with us and it turned out we were the fourth and last boat in. I was anxious about the lock, recalling how in the fall I needed the boat  ahead of us to help me with the lines. This time we had the option to tie up on the opposite side where the locktenders are and will take your lines. Sweet. The other side is properly described as “self-service.” The locktender makes his announcement on Channel 13 so that all the approaching boats know what to do and if the lock isn’t full, can select the side to tie up to.  The lock is used to lift boats between tidal waters and non-tidal waters in the Elizabeth River. It rises less than three feet; slowly. When done, the locktenders toss back the line being held by the Captain who returns to his job at the helm. I had to pull mine off, removing fenders as we left the lock.
The Coast Guard makes several different announcements every day. Many are repeated for days. It’s very common that  we have difficulty understanding due to the person having placed marbles in their mouth. I get very frustrated. We caught part of one that pertained to something in the channel just north of our last bridge. Finally, after the darn message “… for an announcement  concerning  garble, garble, 500 yds north of the Gilmerton Bridge, Break.” And they’d go on. Turns out it was a sunken barge (we thought at first they were saying “second barge”) but had 29 feet of water over it. So do we care? No. That message played for days and days. Just mark it or remove it. Can’t imagine that the tugs and other commercial vessels in the area don’t know about it. Don’t get me going about the Coast Guard’s announcements.

lift bridge

Lift bridge passage just south of Norfolk

Shortly before the last bridge at Mile 6 we entered “Dances with Barges”, appearing daily in the Elizabeth River near you! The distance between the 5th and 6th bridges is six miles, so we all had nearly 10 mins to wait before the scheduled opening at the final bridge.  A tug pushing a barge had just left the dock as we passed by and he came through after us; not close but well, it was a beginning. We kept ahead of him, but then came upon another tug and barge that was behind a Very Large cargo ship with two tugs in attendance.  We allowed the pleasure boats ahead to run interference for us; a good time to be last in line. The Very Large ship requested the first boat in our group to stay behind, but then soon stopped to allow the cruise ship a ½ mile up river, to turn around and be on its way. By now we’re at stress level 6; it’s not like we do this all the time. Our turnoff to the marina is just a short ways past the Very Large ship and we proceed to pass the tug and barge ahead of us along with the other cruisers. The river is wide enough and plenty deep; like 40 feet. The Very Large ship continues to wait for the cruise ship who is now completing his maneuver to continue north. We push the throttles forward to 3000 rpms to make our way past Mr. Very Large… who then begins to proceed and we find ourselves mere yards away from his red hull.

container ship closeup

Wave HI to the nice container ship

We win the race, don’t get yelled at and arrive at the marina only to misunderstand the dock they want us on. Got on the one we preferred though and all was good. Fueled up at the dock; an easy to leave T-head.

Moving Closer to CT

Enjoyed two long travel days, leaving Bonner Bay to arrive at ANOTHER marsh-lined creek, just north of Coinjock, NC, about 3 miles into Virginia.
Sunday we enjoyed the sights along the Pungo and Alligator Rivers. All new scenery, as we’d bypassed this section in favor of a side trip to Roanoke Island in the fall.  The 26 mile long Pungo-Alligator Canal is a man-made stretch that connects the two rivers and allows the ICW to continue. This one, is similar to others in that it is straight with a lovely collection of dead heads (tree stumps) lining both sides.

PungoAllRivr canal

Cruiser's version of Dead Heads

One has the feeling that all is well as long as there are none that you can’t see, hidden just below the water’s surface. Staying in the channel is the name of the game.
We carefully approached a fixed bridge that wasn’t built to 65′- must have been an off day for the architect? It is stated at 64′, but with certain high winds and tides the clearance can go as low as 62′!  We need 63′: 60′ of boat and mast plus 3 feet of wind instruments, VHF and lightning system tube. The height board showed a tad over 64′- phew- and as usual I don’t look up. No point; it always looks like we will hit and I don’t need to race my heart unnecessarily!
Didn’t have much boat company; saw about 6 the entire day. So yes, we are ahead of the pack.  Fall is a more condensed timetable than the Spring schedule; even the peak crowd wouldn’t be overwhelming.
Monday we transited Albemarle Sound, known for its foggy and often rough waters. Say what? Was a clear, calm crossing for Ortolan. This contrasted with the rainy, foggy one we had on the trip south, but only for a short while. The nice thing is that the sound is deep enough not to require a dredged channel, so you can take up whatever space you’d like and not have to worry. Our hopes for sailing across were dashed by the too light winds, although I took advantage of our perfect angle to the sun!   A nice warm 80 degree day; amazing.
Throughout the day the Osprey nest sightings continued and you’d think that we had short-term memory loss the way we got so excited coming upon each one. The camera got a good work-out.

Osprey nest on Marker

A nice home in a good neighborhood

Most nests were very tall and birds could remain well hidden. A couple were only 3-4″ high and I suspected they were under construction given an Osprey was nearby.
Blackwater Creek was our selected home for the night. It had plenty of depth, except at the entrance. We’d read that when southerly winds blew, the depth would increase, but northerly winds could make the entrance closer to 5 feet. Not a problem for us, but even still I was happy to have southerly winds and we crossed the entrance with 6.4 feet under us. I did make note that when we left the next morning with less wind, that the depth was 5 ½ feet.

tug and barge

Floating above the marsh grass

Was eerie to see tugs heading down the waterway, appearing to float on the marsh grasses, their barges barely in sight above the grass tops.