A Berry Good Islands Holiday

Believing is good and I’m not talking about Santa, although maybe our super easy crossing to the Bahamas was a gift from a benevolent higher power than we. Beginners’ luck at the very least.  The temperamental Gulf Stream, known for its strong northerly flow and marching elephant-like waves when the wind opposes the current, was so benign for us that if not for the increase in speed (2kt current sweeping us north) we couldn’t tell we were in it.  Near perfect crossing conditions favored us and made for an easy 28 hour overnight run from Long Key Bight into Great Harbour Cay Marina in the Berry Islands, Bahamas. Excitement ran high when a pod of dolphins joined us for a short swim and play visit.

A Christmas Eve Crossing Approaching Bimini

Clearing in was a simple process of filling out several forms about ourselves and the boat, with each of us completing the usual immigration form. The dock master called in the customs/immigration official located at the nearby airport. Russ brought in the paperwork and our passports. 15 mins later he returned: passports stamped, immigration form stamped with 120 days allowed and $300 lighter.

Russ goes to clear us in

Wi-fi worked… slowly. Email was about all we could do, but that was sufficient. A walk around lead us to a beautiful crescent beach on the eastern shore. Things were quiet due to the holiday and Boxing Day on Monday. A local fishing boat docked next to us; they’d come in Saturday afternoon, unloaded their catch and got right back to building more traps.  They’d take a short break for Christmas then head out for a week or so. The marina had two washers and dryers and since only one of each worked, the crew spent many hours (and $) dealing with that chore.

I did a load Monday morning before we took off. The machines use small, flat, plastic tokens which you purchase for $5 each in the office.

Our day’s journey would take us up and over Little Stirrup Cay then around and south into an anchorage at the southern tip of Hoffman Cay. Norwegian Cruise Lines leases the privately owned Little and Great Stirrup Cays. On Monday the Norwegian Pearl rested in Bertram Cove on Great Stirrup. If nothing else, the cruise ships provide work and income for the islanders; tour and shuttle boats and market wares.

First Bahamas Snorkel: water so clear

A lunch time stop nearby in Great Harbour provided a few trip firsts: crystal clear water, a visual on the anchor and a snorkel. Benj reported spotting several sea cucumbers and an oblong thing with overlapping ½” scutes framed by a 3/8” flat, moss-like material. We found a bunch of them at White Cay, but alas no camera.

Twelve Days at Boot Key

Our days have been filled with checking off the numerous items on the daily to-do lists. To the normal routine we’ve added all that has to be done before we cross, as well as getting our act together for Benj’s arrival and Christmas.  If the weather holds up Wed- Sunday will look like this: rent car, Publix, Miami airport, depart mooring, spend Thurs night behind a teeny tiny Key about 25 miles north, depart very early Friday for an overnight run up and over Bimini and into Great Harbor Cay Marina on Saturday to check in and spend Christmas in the nearest protected anchorage surrounded by crystal clear Bahamas blue water. Subject as always, to change. As it is, this plan must be the third or fourth so far and even as I write this the winds might cause a one day delay.

One of my longtime (since owning Ortolan) wishes is to have a photo of our boat under sail. Seems rather dull to have a tag line of “Ortolan in Flight..” and nothing’s flyin’!  Santa heard my plea and when Benj retrieved our mail it contained a postcard from Yacht-shots.com with Ortolan sailing along in full glossy color! Back in August on our way to Block Island after our haul-out we were happily under sail, main and screacher flying when we saw a plane circle us several times. Couldn’t quite read the lettering; obviously our picture was being taken. Spent a few minutes wondering if we’d be contacted somehow, then completely forgot all about it.

If we don’t find someone to take our picture in the Bahamas, we may just have to shell out mucho pesos for a yacht shot. Be the first to check them out: ID: Ortolan, PW: 06413; some day one may appear on the blog.

Meet Captain Slime Buster!

As our stay at Boot Key Harbor stretched from one to two then to three weeks- geez way too much slimy stuff is beginning to grow on the hulls – I couldn’t help but jot down my rendition of the Christmas classic.  Cutting to the chase, or rather the last day,  and you must sing it out loud.

On the twelfth day at Boot Key, My captain gave to me:

12 projects accomplished, 11 Yellow Dinghies, 10 Margaritas, 9 green avocados, 8 boats parading, 7 glasses red wine, 6 loads of laundry, … 5…  miles walked, 4 calls to rehab, 3 dinghy rides, 2 trips to Publix and some baking in the galley.

Merry Christmas to all, and to all: fair winds, calm seas and may all your dreams come true.    We’ll see you in the Bahamas.