Lunch, lobster, laundry and laughter

Sailors aren't the only ones who delight in red sunsets

Sailors aren’t the only ones who delight in red sunsets

Our iSotherm freezer box thingy, better known as our faux-Engel or lately a P-o-S, has been making us a bit crazy with its inability to consistently regulate itself, often transforming into a massive power hog. Of course, this power hogging seems to happen at night when we can’t see that our house batteries have dropped below 12volts. We’ve tried setting it to Eco mode to conserve energy, but then it gets too warm. The last straw was when the ungrateful schemer put our behaving house freezer under its spell and we woke up to a low voltage house battery and a house freezer at 26 degrees that had been running for hours but not getting colder. Lately it hangs around 20-22 degrees which is acceptable for warmer water and air temps.

Fortunately the Russ-of-all-trades has a trick up his sleeve to nudge the house freezer into working properly and we think we’re good to go for another month or so. Cancel that- try only two days before it stopped at night again. The only answer for the faux-Engel is to consume all the food (can you say “have our son with us for 3 weeks?”) then switch to use it as a fridge; a mode that suits it much better. Or perhaps, as I think I’ve mentioned before, as a contribution to Davy Jones’s locker.  In this case L is for lucky we didn’t experience a major meltdown- the freezers, not us. Ha.

Monday we rode in style in Cort’s yet-to-be-named harbor taxi (little inside joke) to St Francis for lunch then over to Hamburger Beach/Big D’s/Monument to gaze upon the uncleared acreage; building permit pending.

Lots of visualization required. Lots are narrow but cross the island - harbor to ocean side

Lots of visualization required. Lots are narrow but cross the island – harbor to ocean side

The property is set back a couple hundred feet from the beach with a row of breezy Casuarinas offering limited camouflage. And would you be surprised to learn that the project is behind schedule?-by U.S. standards not Bahamian of course. A foundation was expected by now, but with no building permit just yet, the wheels churn very, very slowly. Maybe by next fall mon.

Later that afternoon we learned we’d be dining on lobster for lunch, but even one large tail can’t feed three so additional salads were prepared; not just by me!

Cort prepares fruit and yogurt salad, Russ bartends and I sautéed the parboiled lobster

Cort prepares fruit and yogurt salad, Russ bar tends and I sautéed the parboiled lobster

Lunch is served. Life is good.

Lunch is served. Life is good.

Wednesday would be the last day until Monday when we could easily and safely dinghy across the harbor without getting tossed about like salad with salt water dressing. Wednesday in George Town is propane day, when Clarence brings the truck over to Eddie’s Edgewater and the guys line up with empty tanks to be filled on the spot. (this isn’t the only way to do it just the easiest and perhaps most economical)

Over the past few days we’d been filling our water tanks, planning the last two trips today. We’d also purchased and dumped 15gals of diesel into our starboard tank (at $5.25/gal); as running the genset two-three times daily was sucking down the juice big time. Did I mention our power hog faux-Engel?

Met up with Cort at the market and soon we were driving north on Queen’s Highway on the left side of the road, the driver seated on the right. Way too weird.

Got the laundry started; not sure the last time I used machines without having to insert coins. Come lunch time we fell into our natural roles and managed to prepare tuna salad, spinach salad, fruit with yogurt (cheated- it was left over from Tues) and G&Ts in real glass. Sweet

Checking out the "camp house" plans, elevations, etc

Checking out the “camp house” plans, elevations, etc

Cardboard scale model of future camp-style house- front view

Cardboard scale model of future camp-style house- front view

An important order of business, seeing that Christmas is a week away, was to decorate and acquire a tree. This was an amazing event to watch unfold. Using items found inside or outside the house, a tree, complete with stand and tree skirt was erected within 30mins. The only purchase was the light set.

First- cut casuarinas boughs with machete found in closet

First: cut Casuarina boughs with machete found in closet

Create tree by sticking branches into upside down milk crate found in closet

Create tree by sticking branches into upside down milk crate found in closet

The branches wouldn’t stay upright very well, so we found a large plastic mixing bowl in the kitchen, filled it with moist sand. The crate fit snugly over it.

The side table was the perfect height- who needs the lamp?

The side table was the perfect height- who needs the lamp?

I found some sort of curtain in the linen closet for the tree skirt

I found some sort of curtain in the linen closet for the tree skirt

After this picture was taken Cort placed a few conch shells on the table at the base of the crate. Pretty good uh? Looks even better in real life- my iPhone doesn’t take the best quality photos.

A full load: laundry, water, meats in cooler, diesel and propane

A full load: laundry, water, meats in cooler, diesel and propane

Worked up an appetite after that strenuous tree raising so we headed a couple of miles north to a relatively new place, Prime Island Meats & Deli where they have stateside quality meats, salads, baked goods and deli meats.  You’d think we hadn’t seen U.S. meats in ages, rather a mere month. But this type of market is a rare find in the Bahamas. If I showed you a picture of the cuts of meat you find in nearly all Bahamas markets, you would understand. We snagged a piece of freshly made lasagna for $5, fresh sausage, and not frozen from prehistoric times boneless chicken breasts.  Cort scooped up a small frozen turkey for Christmas; wife and two grandkids arrive Sunday so he has been preparing.

Somehow we got back to the boat in our overloaded dinghy in calm seas (oh that harbor can get nasty) and felt very lucky to have a friend with a house, car and boat in George Town.

Thursday through Monday are forecast to be windy enough to keep us boat-bound much of the time. What better opportunity to bake, make ornaments and get a certain someone’s bed cleared off so he has a place to sleep come Monday night 🙂

Empty Harbor = Better Connecting

This guy comes by most days and poses for pictures before diving down

This guy comes by most days and poses for pictures before diving down

When George Town is in full swing around the end of February, roughly 300 boats crowd the sizeable harbor. Right now, with no official count mentioned yet on the Net, we’re eye-balling it around 70 -80. Everything you need to do is easy now, from finding space at the dinghy dock, to shopping and buying diesel or gas at the Shell Station in Lake Victoria. Or, just doing the George Town shuffle.

With a few very windy days approaching, we wanted to hit the market Thursday before the ride in became sloppy and salty. I hit the produce section first and as I round the end of the aisle, I see none other than our friend Cort, formerly of Celise/Spirit, presently local villa resident and new owner of property on Stocking Island. We knew all this ahead of course, but finding him 30 mins after arrival was pure delight. We have a history of not keeping in touch yet paths crossing on a regular basis ever since meeting in Boot Key Harbor, FL in 2011. Cort’s wife Carolyn flies in Dec 22 and in the meantime he had another couple as house guests for the first week here.

Our first couple of days were spent cleaning, decorating, wrapping gifts and misc small fix-its.

Our every-purpose table in use by both of us today

Our every-purpose table in use by both of us today

We also had visits from old and new cruiser friends and Cort stopped by before his friends left so they could see our boat.

Our visitors depart- the top must come down to fit under the bridge into Lake Victoria

Our visitors depart- the top must come down to fit under the bridge into Lake Victoria

We re-connected with Mattina and just today with Helen and Joe on Déjà vu.

George Town may not be for every cruiser but it has something to offer every cruiser… well, unless you desire a nude beach or fantastic shelling. Many cruisers are here to enjoy some of the activities they did/do on land: bridge, fishing, volleyball, softball, music, artistic pursuits and hanging out with friends. If you don’t like the crowds- then don’t anchor with the packs! The harbor has numerous spots where you can be very much alone and if you don’t wish to join in any of the activities I haven’t seen anyone keel-hauled because of that yet!

One person we connected with was Lermon Rolle. Now who might he be you wonder? If I said “Doc” Lermon… bartender at Peace and Plenty would that help? 🙂  After a long beach walk in the morning, we headed to town to check out the holiday crafts being sold by Yuma Exuma women’s group on the waterside patio at Peace and Plenty. One woman had ornaments made from shells, that not only gave me lots of ideas, but she had one predominately purple that I bought for our tree. As we near the final table, laid out so you end up near the bar, we look toward the bar because at this point I’m wondering if this is our man. Sure enough he calls out a greeting and I walk over asking, “Do you know Ida?” Big smile tells us the answer as he motions us around to look up and there, tacked up along the beam, is a photo of Ida. We relate our story and he runs off. Returns with a beautiful resort brochure that contains his picture- so I ask him to sign it for me as a souvenir and proof we did meet him!

The "Doc", Lermon Rolle stars in the P&P brochure

The “Doc”, Lermon Rolle stars in the P&P brochure

How could we not order a couple of rum punches and sit a spell?  Only one other person was at the bar so we had him all to ourselves. We’re guessing mid-sixties, mostly because “Doc” has worked at Peace and Plenty for forty years! Lives up island, no car and still gets to work looking spiffy and happy to be there. He and others like him prove that not all locals spend their days hanging out.

For long-distance connecting we were thrilled to discover a new wi-fi service in the harbor provided by Bahamas WiMAX, the antenna set next to the Monument. We signed up for a week, figuring once the harbor sucked in more boats, the wi-fi would chug at turtle crawl.

We changed our minds about our phones after burning through 240mb of data on the reduced AT&T plan we switch to while in the Bahamas. Another approach, which we’d considered last year, would be to buy an unlocked smart phone and purchase a BTC SIM card for it. The cautious voice on our shoulder said, “Oh, but what if you get to the Bahamas and the phone doesn’t work with the SIM card?  Because you can’t test it until you get there.” Sigh. Determined not to continue funding AT&T’s corporate pension plan by paying $120/mon for only 800mb, we reconsidered the BTC thing because they were offering 1GB for $20/mon. Ah the things you learn in the barbershop.

But how to unlock my iPhone? Sit back, relax with a beverage (by the fire for many of you, hee,hee) and read on. Ok, I know the holidays are upon us, so I’ll be brief. Call AT&T and if your phone qualifies, as in an older iPhone (mine is an iPhone 3), they perform some magic to unlock it. Then you need to use your laptop to do a backup, restore it to factory settings, use iTunes to update the device for the unlock, restore your stuff back to the phone… and voila you get a message that your phone is unlocked and ready for foreign matter. Next, go to your local BTC office which in our case is right in town, all newly renovated and painted in rainbow colors- air-conditioned too- very comfy. So now, stand in line at the cashier counter to purchase the SIM card, data card and $5 of local phone talk minutes- ca-ching- $50 please. “Do you accept Discover?” I’ve never seen that one”, says the clerk, but as we reach for cash instead, the ever-watchful supervisor (a security guard stands by the front door) takes the card, swipes it and hands us the receipt to sign. Perfect- conserve cash and no foreign fees charged by Discover (unlike MC and Visa).

At this point most people would leave, but the clerk said something about the chip needing to be trimmed to fit so we headed over to customer service. Are you asleep by the fire yet? Maybe a second drink? Good move on our part-see, we have learned. The chip fit perfectly and the phone minutes loaded ok, but the data card, the one for $30 for 2GB (we asked for 1GB but bait and switch she gave us a 2GB card) would not load. She goes into the back and then we hear, “none of those cards were energized.”  Oops. No problem for us but others who left the store will have to come back, with their receipt and prove the card didn’t load. More checking and testing, then we get the Ok we are good to go. Halleluiah! What we have acquired is a Bahamas phone number and enough data to text, get emails, weather and such on the phone and the ability to tether to the laptop when our week of wi-fi ends. One month from now we have to spend another $20 or $30 for more data as whatever amount you get expires after one month. Yessir, better and cheaper in the Bahamas. This time.