Return to Exumas: Boot to Stocking..Lee that is

sailing

Occurs to me that this would be described as Three Sheets to the Wind

Never say never, so I will graciously allow that for ONCE the forecasting was right on, giving us a most glorious 51nm sail from Cat Island’s New Bight to Lee Stocking Island via Adderly Cut. In fact the wind speed and angle were perfect for a once (maybe twice) in 4 year flying of all three sails at once- for nearly three hours of the total six and ½ hrs we were able to sail. Our speed stayed up well into the high seven knots, often into the eights and our top speed for a few seconds was 10kts.

During the trip as we crossed Exuma Sound, we saw a very rare Bahamas event; a vessel (45ft lovely monohull) being towed. Couldn’t say for sure from where or to, but the angle looked like perhaps from Long Island heading to Spanish Wells; quite a long, read “overnight” trip at maybe what, 5 kts max?

Our timing through the cut was close to slack but with SE at 11kts the cut was benign; always much appreciated. We weren’t sure what to expect at the anchorages but figured maybe 6-8 max. Imagine our surprise at the many masts sticking up above the tree line as we came around the northern tip, dropping the main and turning toward the looking-more-full-by-the-moment anchoring areas. Found out that yesterday being the first Friday in Feb… well it was time for the Farmers Cay First Friday in February Festival, or 5F to we locals. 🙂 176 anchored boats were counted early Saturday in and near Little Farmers Cay. Thanks to the great weather before, during and after, the festival must have enjoyed near-record attendance.

One chore needed to be done before we could spend the next three days immensely enjoying the beautiful, calm, pure Bahamas days about to appear. The threads holding the zipper down the length of the stack pack had given their lives to the sun and more sewing was needed there as well as patches on a few holes near the front where the fabric just beats itself up flapping about. Not exactly well designed.

About 10ft long and loaded with tiny shells along its length- it stunk

About 10ft long and loaded with tiny shells along its length- it stunk

So we worked on that for 30 mins and then Russ noticed a 3/8” black line floating in the water about mid-ship under the starboard hull; we could see just a foot or so of it floating next to the boat. Humm. Here’s my version: Russ thought the line might be attached to something, maybe an old mooring or something heavy sitting 8ft down with a line on it. When we made our approach to anchor I was watching at the bow to be sure we dropped anchor in a sandy spot and I did not see anything in the water. Of course, I could not be 100% sure- but 95% anyway.  I suggested we use the boat hook to try and pick it up and see what happens. That idea was rejected. A short time after we spotted the line, a slight wind shift moved us and what do you know but the line was still under the starboard hull in the same spot. So now I am adamant that this line is not in the sand but somehow attached to our hull, like a remora.  More of the line seemed visible so I retrieved the boat hook and was able to lift up enough of the line so Russ could grab it. At that moment I realized, and Russ did too, that the line must have gotten wedged into the dagger board trunk on our trip from Cat.

Moving the board up and down didn’t dislodge it; pulling on it from on deck or in the water didn’t work, but the next day we managed to pull it out with the dinghy. Well that’s a first. Trying to fish and we snag an old line; at least it didn’t find its way into a prop.

Two years ago we stopped here and spent time hiking around and taking the trail up to Perry’s Peak- the highest hill in the Exumas. But today was perfect for Driving Ms Bunting around the beaches and shoreline of Lee Stocking Island.

So many beaches, so much blue sky and white puffy clouds

So many beaches, so much blue sky and white puffy clouds

Loved the look of the curved palm tree

Loved the look of the curved palm tree

Down close to Williams Bay we spied a large stingray and as we headed slowly back, we started seeing one after the other, most resting in a few inches of sand.  Sea stars were even more abundant and easier to photograph, but lacked the visual appeal of the stingrays.

So clear you'd think we used an underwater camera

So clear you’d think we used an underwater camera

Snuggle stingrays look like ghosts in sand

Snuggle stingrays look like ghosts in sand

This stingray had a remora friend along for the ride

This stingray had a remora friend along for the ride

sea star

Isn't this one nearly invisible?

Isn’t this one nearly invisible?

We planned to head for Rudder Cut Cay around 2pm to catch high tide through the Pimlicos which are a banks route for shallow draft vessels like us. As usual, we engaged in our typical tide discussion first. 🙂

Cat Island: We check out New Bight

First let’s give you some Cat Island tidbits. Supposedly Cat is named after pirate Arthur Catt, or possibly after its large one-time population of feral cats. I’m going with the pirate guy version, not only because a pirate makes a better story, but then how do you explain Arthur’s Town, one of Cat’s few main settlements?  Arthur’s Town is the childhood home of Sir Sidney Poitier and if you are lucky you might run across his daughter who calls this settlement her home. Or, as one boat told us, you might have tea with his aunt and just miss him by a day.

Cat Island is 50 miles long, 150 sq miles, shaped like a boot (a pirate boot right?) and the 2000 census counted 1,650 residents. It is as you now know, the Bahamian island with the tallest hill, Mt. Alvernia.

Cat Island sits east of the south-central Exumas. Can see Conception Island in the bottom right-hand corner

Cat Island sits east of the south-central Exumas. Can see the northern tip of Long Island in the bottom right-hand corner

After The Hermitage we walked back toward the shore road, turned right (north) to walk past the small cluster of “take-aways”, the Bahamian version of road-side take outs, only these are typically colorful and often sell beer and mixed drinks. Counted about 6 or 7; only 3 open. These tiny take-aways are next to the regatta stand so I imagine that during New Bight’s annual sailing regatta (one of the best because the harbor is large and unobstructed) business is brisk.

Along the beach-side road are a bunch of colorful take-aways- and a phone booth

Along the beach-side road are a bunch of colorful take-aways- and a phone booth

Lula’s drew our attention and Lula herself was welcoming and made sure we came in to see what she offered. Impressive: cold drink, mixed drinks, beer, snacks and best of all baked goods. After a taste of her coconut pie (more like a tart with soft crust and a filling like Lorraine’s Mom uses for her bread), how could we not have it for our coconut-loving selves.

We sure were delighted to come across Lula's

We sure were delighted to come across Lula’s

Along the way our coconut-spying eyes found a likely suspect on the ground; plenty of liquid and heavy. Visions of Bateau Ortolan coconut bread danced in our heads.

In the middle of the beach were large spigot thingys for three hefty hoses to attach to.

Fuel hose receptacle on the beach in New Bight

Fuel hose receptacle on the beach in New Bight

A few yards up was the road and across the road were large fuel tanks. Not every settlement receives fuel and not all that do have enough depth at a dock to accommodate a fuel freighter. Those settlements with shallower harbors use this method: the freighter anchors out (past where you see us anchored) and long, very long hoses are run to shore and hooked up to these faucets.

Fuel freighter anchors off the beach and runs in long hoses

Fuel freighter anchors off the beach and runs in long hoses

The Church of the Holy Redeemer was along the way and in addition to the church itself, was a rectory building, what looked like a small carriage/garage, a storage structure and around back an outhouse (educated guess based on the seat inside).

Father Jerome's final church project

Father Jerome’s final church project

Beautiful interior with several tiny enclaves in the side walls and Bapistry a half-level down

Beautiful interior with several small cut-outs in the side walls and Bapistry a half-level down

Outhouse (?) no longer in use- thankfully

Outhouse (?) no longer in use- thankfully

As we climbed back aboard Ortolan, I heard a sound and then I got it- big groan- we’d (ok ME) left the propane switch on in the galley and the one hour warning voice was announcing “Propane left on, Warning, propane left on.” Darn. First time ever we’d left the boat and forgotten the switch.

Our afternoon foray involved landing at a beach closer to the market. Directions provided by an ActiveCaptain reviewer said to use the beach at the abandoned resort with the three ink buildings. A Twilight Zone setting complete with plastic chairs still inside, an outdoor bar with stools, curtains hanging and signs indicating Twin Palms Resort. Any minute the place could spring to life; the creepy feeling we were not alone sat heavy.

We head over to land Bunting at the abandoned resort

We head over to land Bunting at the abandoned resort

Our directions guided us to take the road with tiny wooden bridge across Musgrove Creek then turn left at the main road. At the creek we could see an arched entry that looked like- what else- another forsaken resort? A large sign at the main road told part of the story; those who wander by can create their own ending.

Looks impressive, but best we could see not much has happened since 2007

Looks impressive, but best we could see not much has happened since 2007

Perhaps more in New Bight than we’ve seen elsewhere- a close second being Long Island- are small concrete homes abandoned when a family member died which required that a new home be built.

A rare specimen with wall art- kinda Mexican farmer looking to me

A rare specimen with wall art- kinda Mexican farmer looking to me

In sharp contrast to those was a walled home a bit further out of New Bight central that prompted the words, “Bahamian mansion”. Workers were on-site as were several hens and a rooster.

Not too many homes owned by locals look like this

Not too many homes owned by locals look like this

The lawn looked like that low Bermuda grass stuff we’d been seeing around, which explains the lawnmower noticed earlier. Did you see it in the photo of Russ on the stone seats in the prior post?

The New Bight Market was as promised; clean and well-stocked. Good thing our supply of Bounty was ample; who would pay this price?

Curious to know who pays this price

Curious to know who pays this price

Cheapy brands are available for around $2/roll in a pinch in most markets. When Exuma Market had an unheard of two-week-long sale on paper towels at $1/roll we scooped up six to use as shop towels around the boat since the 10 from CT ran out the week before. Paper towels, Scotts Boat and RV toilet paper, K-cups, various protein bars, cans of cashews, real maple syrup, contact lens solution and all our supplements are provisions we don’t leave FL without a 4-month supply. I’d like to put tonic water into that same category because only Schweppes is available here and our taste buds prefer Canada Dry, Polar or any store brand to Schweppes, but we couldn’t find room for more than 50 bottles – just kidding.

Spacious and well-stocked New Bight Market

Spacious and well-stocked New Bight Market

Our weather today was sunny with a moderate breeze, wind out of the ESE and a high temp of 82F. Lovely. Saturday promised to be a great sailing-back-to-Exumas day. Always fuel conscious, we sure hoped so. We’d added about 20 gals of diesel in George Town before we left and didn’t plan to add more until Abacos.