Drunkard’s Dream: Triple Cays

sitting prettyDrunk on beach combing that is. Happy to have several days after leaving Green Turtle just perfect for island hopping and exploring. The three cays lie in a line heading NW of Green Turtle and since we were heading west toward the banks (Little Bahama Bank) before crossing, these cays were along the way. Although a mere 22 nm separated the first and third, each was distinctive in formation, beach quality and treasures. Best described as a blend of Berry Island Cays and Exuma Cays sitting out-of-the-way enough for some privacy with few neighbors.

Manjack Cay (aka Nunjack): anchorage large enough for two dozen boats or more with Crab Cay nestled near the eastern end. Some years ago when (believe it or not) bringing building supplies, equipment and provisions was easier than now, several homes were built overlooking the harbor. A wide, well-kept trail was blazed that leads from off the harbor’s tiny beach, around the mangroves until you get to low dunes and voila, the ocean beach. The owners created artistic signs to lead the way.

This way!  The path is long enough for a healthy leg stretch

This way! The path is long enough for a healthy leg stretch

The trail is a solid and flat ¾ mile and we spotted tiny birds, air plants and butterflies along the way.air plant

A long stretch of sandy beach with virtually no shells at all, but I gathered 3 hamburger beans and that made the trek worthwhile.

A common sight- Lori searching for sea beans

A common sight- Lori searching for sea beans

The chickens are an English breed (I forget the name) and love coconut! Near the Tiki hut just off the beach sits a tree stump with a device on top to help you remove coconut husks and crack open the coconut. How great is that?

Chicken came over to Mama for a hug

Chicken came over to Mama for a hug

Beach chicks. Very domestic and sooo big!

Beach chicks. Very domestic and sooo big!

The beach on the inside (harbor) of Crab gave up a cleaned and sun-bleached sea urchin and a handful of small shells. Met a man who was house-sitting for a friend on Manjack and Russ talked with him while I hunted. He explained that supplies and large freight items got to the island by a local man who ferried them out from Green Turtle (5nm away) after the freight boat delivered. As of about five years ago, the freight boat no longer stops at Green Turtle, leaving only the mail boat to bring food, mail, and small freight items.

Powell Cay: shaped like letter Z with a short middle piece that angles more right than left, the Cay offers good protection from north through south. Its best features are numerous accessible beaches and the white-tailed tropicbirds that entertained us in the morning. Several were curious about the dinghy as she floated behind the boat, even landing in it briefly. They breed in Bermuda and can be spotted here and there in Florida and Bahamas.

White-tailed tropicbird

White-tailed tropicbird

The trip from Manjack was 9nm and we arrived at 10:30. Except for a lunch break the entire day was devoted to beach combing, trail walking and dinghy exploration.

Russ finds the trail that leads to the ocean beach

Russ finds the trail that leads to the ocean beach

Along the trail that led to the ocean beach we came upon the largest granddaddy hermit crab ever- at least 5″ long, he looked ready for a larger shell.

The godfather of all hermit crabs

The godfather of all hermit crabs

He stopped and kept an eye or two on us as we watched and photographed him for posterity. The ocean beach was long wide and not entirely flat. It gave up a handful of sea beans and small shells.

The four non-ocean beaches were each quite different. Between them we saw huge sea biscuits, several legal queen conch, milk conch shells, live sea biscuits in the shallows at low tide and a type of conch that we have yet to ID. The large sea biscuits are so heavy that instead of floating up past the sand to the wrack line they get lodged in the sand, their distinctive sea star-shaped tops barely visible. They are typically discolored and have some marine growth; all discouraging to the collector.

Turtles, fish and rays showed themselves if you happened to be looking.

Allan’s-Pensacola Cay: within living memory they were once two, now one. A hurricane closed in the narrow channel between them and now you can’t tell where as it looks much like the rest of the cays’ terrain; bush, grass and skinny-trunked trees. This joining up formed a small harbor where 10-12 boats can easily fit. The trick is to find a sandy spot to drop the hook for good holding. Our sandy spot gobbled up the Rocna so well that when we tried to find it with the viewer, we only knew it was there because sections of chain were visible.

The 13 nm trip took two hours motoring in light wind, running the watermaker to fill the port tanks. Turtle sightings along the way; none surfaced long enough for a portrait.

Don't follow this sailboat!

Don’t follow this sailboat!

 

The A-P Hilton- new carpeting, free Wi-Fi, A/C and all the fresh air you want

The A-P Hilton- new carpeting, free Wi-Fi, A/C and all the fresh air you want

 

Hanging out waiting for you-know-who to do her thing

Hanging out waiting for you-know-who to do her thing

Hard to miss the path leading from the harbor across to the ocean

Hard to miss the path leading from the harbor across to the ocean

A path leads over to guess where? – yes the ocean beach and the signing tree. The tree got so filled up that now 4 or 5 trees have “sign” hanging from them Kinda like Boo Boo Hill plaques only you make them from any possible material (recycled beach junk is best) and hang it from a tree.

Signing trees at Allan's Cay

Signing trees at Allan’s Cay

We came partially prepared with a black permanent marker. While I checked out the beach (hey, this would be our last beach stop in the Bahamas) Russ found a red and white-striped float and was adding the finishing touches as I returned with some blue nylon line I’d picked up.

Ortolan sign for the signing tree.  Nice work Captain!

Ortolan sign for the signing tree. Nice work Captain!

 

Treasured Tranquil Turtles

Sand Bank Cays with Treasure Cay in distance

Sand Bank Cays with Treasure Cay in distance

So here we are, having decided to extend our stay into April; wondering which way to turn from Guana Cay. How about we let the wind and weather help with that; gee wouldn’t that be a novel idea? Another front was arriving with the west wind part of it relatively benign; however, the 1, 2, 3, front punch after that was downright troubling. I know that you all know that winter hasn’t received the “time for Spring” memo, and the same goes here in the too close to Florida Abacos.

For now, we’d let the wind fill our sails and set a course for Treasure Cay with its long stretch of gorgeous white sand beach that cozies up to turquoise blue water, or is it azure blue? Doesn’t matter really when it’s that beautiful.

Sunday, our next stop would require a mooring in Hope Town or a dock to sit out the next 3 fronts with that nasty clocking around activity. Hey, how about doing the Whale? Low, SW winds would allow nearly any vessel to get past Whale Cay and with high tide around mid-day we could easily take the “Don’t Rock” passage. This meant we’d be looking for a slip at Bluff House Beach Resort and Marina in Green Turtle Cay’s White Sound; possibly for six nights. Darn. Imagine, a restaurant, beach bar, pool, wi-fi, water, power and all the interesting people you meet at a marina- this wasn’t too hard to take. But first, one needs to contact the marina.

Your experience may be different, but here’s ours: 🙂

  • Hail Bluff House on CH16 before coming past the Whale. Eight miles away. No response. Do that 3 times
  • Call them on the phone: result busy. Try that 5 times
  • Listen to announcement on CH16 that phones are down on Green Turtle. Wi-fi too. Sigh
  • Roll dice. Continue past the Whale via Don’t Rock passage over shifting sand bars that look much more shallow than 6 feet

    The rock in the Don't Rock passage- the shallow draft route inside Whale Cay

    The rock in the Don’t Rock passage- the shallow draft route inside Whale Cay

  • Hail Bluff House on CH16 at six miles. Success! They have space. We’re coming in hot!
  • Continue making water that started at 9am and anchor at Joyless Pt, outside of White Sound- Ok so we’re not coming in tonight
  • Launch dinghy and go in to check out the slip ( I mean we haven’t docked in 5 mos) and reserve it for Monday. This process took Russ 45 mins and the dinghy ride was only 5
  • Talk through docking process twice to be sure we each know our job (me that is). Test headsets-OK
  • Process is we go stern-in to the dock, wedging our 23ft between the two pilings, port and starboard. There’s no side dock, just a ladder on the dock at our stern where we’d climb up. I’d have to get lines on the pilings before we backed all the way in
  • Use bad language when headset dies before we get to the dock. Russ executed a perfect back-in, stopping half-way. I needed six tries to get the line around the piling, but the applause felt good. (does it take six people to watch us dock?) Yes, some helped too.
  • Spend 30 mins attaching and adjusting bow, spring, stern lines so that we could get off the boat and still have it snug enough to stay in place for the eventual 33kts.
  • Get into the marina groove and enjoy! 2-4-1 Tranquil Turtles every day at Happy Hour

    Bird in a web- no flight for this lady

    Bird in a web- no flight for this lady

Many boats bouncing around the Sea of Abaco are charter boats; Moorings, Dream Yacht Charters, Cruise Abaco, to name a few. Once in a while the owner may be enjoying his boat, but generally you will see a bareboat charter or a captained one. Not that cruisers are anywhere near perfect boat handlers, but when you are operating an unfamiliar vessel, trying to squeeze 10 days-worth of fun into 7 or less, you may become the center of attention, especially at the dock.

Someone messed up and the dinghy tumbled

Someone messed up and the dinghy tumbled

This charter power cat, Sea Song stayed a few nights, three spaces (can’t really call them slips) down from us. During the docking process which included more wind than we had, it seemed like the owner and friends were aboard as well as a hired captain.  The dinghy gets hoisted on davits. When departing, the captain gunned it to get past the docks in front of him, the dinghy tumbled into the water, its contents taking the plunge. The onlookers yelled, the crew hustled and the captain left the helm to see for himself. Not sure leaving the helm is a good idea, but this way everyone got into my photo- which- sorry- was taken through the Strataglass panel.

Cruiser runs aground leaving at low tide

Cruiser runs aground leaving at low tide

A few days later this small Grand Banks backs out of his space 30 mins before a low tide which is lower than usual. The tender to yacht Koala was ahead of him and when Loon decided to go around the tender, bam! Aground. Naturally, people were watching because well, you get bored and a boat coming or going is worth watching.  Pulling was futile and around 3:30, after the tide rose enough, Loon floated off and after a test drive for damage, nosed back into her space for one more night.

Monday promises to be a busy day of departures. Many boats are looking to cross to FL or GA asap and while we’ll be going the same way, our plan is to spend 4-5 days exploring a few of the cays that lie northwest of Green Turtle. Described with words that also would describe the Jumentos or Warderick Wells, we are very eager to check them out. And for the weather to settle.