We had a very short window to make it across the Gulf Stream, then as far as possible, yet arrive before sunset, to a protected (but not too expensive) marina & clear customs before 5:00 PM.  We decided on Great Harbour Cay in the Berry Islands, Bahamas.  This meant re-positioning ourselves to Miami, to a protected anchorage, yet with a quick & easy passage to get out in the dark.  Yes, dark, to make the 130 miles before 5:00 PM.  We awoke at 2:30 AM & got underway at 3:15 AM.  Within 10 minutes it began pouring rain, just as we were turning to head into the channel leading out to the mighty Atlantic.  Of course, there is always one boat (usually a sailboat) anchored at the edge of the channel without a proper anchor light – just a dim flashing solar light from the dollar store (I might have lit him up with my spotlight – sorry if I woke you up :))

Our trip went fairly well – not our smoothest crossing – but not a bad crossing either.  It had been windy for days with the wind only having dropped for less than a day.  While the waves were only 2′ – 3′, they were very short & choppy.  We slowed down & sped up to avoid several rain squalls.  It didn’t really calm down until a mile out of Great Harbour Cay, but we successfully docked at 4:45 PM.

Not there yet!

We tried to delay customs until the next morning, but to no avail.  I was beat & not in the mood to fill out a stack of paperwork then endure the “song & dance” of clearing customs.  One of the “discussions” is the duration of your stay.  The most they want to give you is 90 days – you can apply for an extension, but only at certain ports & only less than 3 days before expiration – never after.  Every year (except one) I have negotiated (begged) for 120 or 150 days & received it.  This year I asked for 150 days.  She hemmed & hawed , then said she’s have to phone her supervisor – fortunately, the call went right to voice mail – after more what-to-do, what-to-do – BAM, BAM, BAM of her rubber stamp, we’re in!

An aerial shot, likely from the ’90’s

It is deja vu to be here at Great Harbour Cay Marina for Christmas, as we came here after our first crossing in 2011 with Benj & also stayed for Christmas.  With the wind forecast to be 20 – 35 knots for at least a week, we’ll hunker down completely protected – the wind at our slip is only half of what is showing elsewhere.  While we’re still less than halfway to George Town, the most difficult portion is over & we can make smaller jumps thru the rest of the Berry Islands, to Nassau, to the Exumas & finally down to George Town – we’ll make it!

Here’s an interesting History of Great Harbour Cay.  Up until 1960 it was a typical Bahamian island with fishing & quiet island life.   However in the 1960’s, it’s raw beauty was discovered by the rich & famous who wanted, of course, to develop it with a new airport, houses, private clubs & a championship golf course.  During it’s short heyday, the rich & famous flocked here, including Cary Grant, Brigitte Bardot, Jack Nicklaus, The Rockefellers, Douglas Fairbanks, Ingrid Bergman, among others.   It’s the Bahamas ‘mon, so it didn’t last long – for many reasons.  You’ll have to read all about it by clicking the link above!

Wishing all a Very Merry Christmas from Russ & Lori!

We had a productive month-long stay in Vero Beach with doctor appointments, stocking up & prepping for our crossing to the Bahamas.  Of course, cleaning our boat’s bottom is one of our hundred of get-ready chores!

The weather was perfect for the entire month – almost too perfect – hoping it wouldn’t all be used up!  As it turned out, there was an absolutely perfect crossing weather forecast right as our month’s stay came to an end, however we had made other plans …

We were conflicted with our Bahamas plans this year after Hurricane Dorian.  While most of the Bahamas weren’t even touched, Abaco, which we visit every year was completely devastated.  In particular, Hopetown was ground zero with winds of over 200 MPH.  The eye came directly over the harbour & just sat there for over 1/2 hour before moving slightly, then stalling again for many hours.  For the first week afterwards, they were strictly in survival mode.  The only outside help at first were U. S. Coast Guard helicopters.  Then came private boats & yachts from Florida bringing food, water & fuel for generators.  The tiny local volunteer fire department of only a dozen members, no firehouse, no fire truck & no fire/rescue boat became relief coordinators working 18 hour days to secure the few remaining houses for all to live in & set up a temporary kitchen.  Since then, volunteer organizations from around the world have descended with help of all kinds, but there is endless work towards recovery.

Having cruisers arrive by boat is a good/bad situation.  If you’re on the younger side with construction experience who want to volunteer repairing roofs & are completely self-supporting – great!  If you’re the average cruiser who wants to hang out, eat food meant for the volunteers & needing to buy short-in-supply diesel – not so much.  Benj had already bought airplane tickets to Georgetown, Exuma for early January, so we decided to stick to our plan, bypassing Abaco for now.

There is no FEMA, no insurance & limited governmental help.  If not laborers, they mostly need $$$$, for construction materials & the ships to bring them.  A grassroots effort began for the Hope for Abaco Benefit Concert in Florida, appropriately featuring the Barefoot Man, who appeared for many years at Nippers Bar & Grill on nearby Guana Cay (now also mostly destroyed).  Our donation provided us with a great time, but more importantly much needed $$$$ with 100% going to the relief effort.

The perfect weather has turned into a weather nightmare.  Weeks of windy, stormy weather is now forecast putting our crossing plans in doubt.

We have less than 3 weeks to get down to George Town, Exumasfor Benj’s arrival.  Plenty of time … unless we can’t even begin to cross for weeks.  Plan C is now in effect, which involves getting further south to Miami,

Houses in Florida decorated for Christmas look a little different

so we have a shorter & better angle to cross.  Many cruisers cross to Bimini, but that is still only 1/8 of the way to the Exumas, so we’ll have to go further – possibly an overnight – our favorite – NOT!