Believe it or not, the 90 days we’d been given on our cruising permit would expire March 10. AND believe it or not, George Town is the only location in the entire Exumas where cruisers can clear in or try to extend their stay. You can walk a short distance to the Immigration office or take a pricey taxi ride up to the airport.  We have never needed to extend because we’d always received 120 or 150 days. Other cruisers mostly said that we’d have no trouble getting an extension, but we did hear horror stories from people who spend most of their time in the Bahamas, or try to. The generally accepted practice was to present yourselves at the office a couple of days ahead, but under no circumstances let your permit expire.

Last year another cruiser had gone to extend at the George Town office and reported on the Net the preferred hours and that you could request your extension one week ahead. With that in mind we went in two days before strong winds would keep us aboard, on March 2- OMG 8 days early! We had to hit the library, market, Russ hair cut (that I had to repair) and Immigration after dropping off laundry at Lee’s Corner Laundromat.

Official and intimidating. Small waiting room with a dozen decent seats. A full wall with a door into the office area and the window you walk up to keeps “us” separated from “them”. The man at the window was dressed in what we’d describe as military fatigues, complete with a visible sidearm. Ok then.

Russ is called up in turn, states his business, presents our paperwork and passports and after Mr Serious looks it all over, hands it all back with an extension form for each of us to complete. Most was pretty straightforward but then they want to know, “Your source of income”. Uh? Bear in mind when you are visiting another country they don’t want foreigners taking jobs away, so you better have your own darn money. For us, the answer was, “retired”, happily.  We asked for 60 days, figuring we only needed 45 but could manage with 30. Russ returned all paperwork to the window and Mr Serious went into the deep dark official offices in back and we waited. Others, not as clean cut and boring as we, got some flack and not the amount of time they wanted, but at least they weren’t kicked out asap!

Nervous and confident, we continued to wait. Then, Russ got motioned up. I hope he said “thank you sir.”  Whew. 60 days and no hassle even though we’d come in 8 days ahead! So relieved to have that done.  Now we could enjoy the remainder of our days in George Town and go on to roaming aimlessly about the Bahamas (Exumas and hopefully the Berry Islands).

With strong E-ish winds forecast from Saturday through at least Tuesday, we hunkered down in the perfect protection of Red Shanks. This time we got naked, or Twin Sisters did :-).  Not only did we close up the bimini top, we removed the T-top. Less noise, less wear and tear and a chance to lube the zippers with ease.

This was one of those wind events that arrived pretty much on schedule you could see the dark wall and then the wind kicked into gear and the rain poured down.  Besides offering awesome protection, Red Shanks is further south in the harbor and those up by Monument, Chat ‘n Chill and Sand Dollar get slammed first, and you get a warning. Warning of wind, rain, boats dragging. I got nervous just listening, but it was noon time not the dark of night and when we felt the winds I was happy to get on with the event and know we were just fine.

Word that our friends on Traveling Soul would arrive after the wind event, on Saturday got me smiling. Plans for our harbor departure on Monday or Tuesday, brought mixed feelings. Weather conditions had been so bad that the supply ships arrived days late and instead of fresh produce and dairy early in the week, it didn’t happen until late in the week. Let’s not forget we need to stock up on wine too before departing.

Cort came through on his promise to re-schedule our postponed lunch up at Grand Isle, near the Sandals Resort at Emerald Bay, so Friday March 10 we met him at the market dock. Once again I offer proof that the dock and the market are meeting places: we tie up and look back to see Melanie & Paul zooming in (they don’t come in very often, mostly just for fresh foodstuffs). Paul notes that Russ is wearing a (different) Cuttyhunk polo shirt and that gets a good laugh. Cort arrives and we stand around chatting because he hasn’t seen M&P in a while. Ok. We go to leave and Cort’s good friend, who was also his boat partner when they co-owned Celise/Spirit, comes down the dock. Another delay. He and his wife are here on their new power cat. See, power cats are getting popular!

Service, food and libations at Grand Isle were excellent and we thoroughly enjoyed our waiter, chatting with Cort on a wide range of topics (including his wilder younger days) and the pretty pool-side view. Cort needed a good pressure gauge, which we had and he’d get it and return it before we took off. Good, we don’t have to say farewell just yet.

Saturday we made a big coming out move to Sand Dollar beach, first row in. This particular anchorage area has room for at least 5 to 6 rows of boat out from the shore, unlike up at Monument which is constrained by the ship channel to apprx 4 rows. Can you believe we had to go into town one more time for food? This time we got most of the important food items and said good-bye to Fred who was leaving Sunday and stocking up too. Stopped to chat with m/v Barefeet also in the anchorage, and departing the day after us.

Traveling Soul snuck in at lunch time and we spent time catching up with them. Ann & I did a low tide beach walk, collecting small shells and more sunrise tellins for me. Ann prepared lasagna for dinner –if you want to know her amazing repertoire check the link I have to Traveling Soul’s blog and a recent post will make your mouth water. During those windy hide-out days, Ann prepared gourmet meals while I made jewelry. Yes, I cooked dinner too but nothing worth noting.

Our departure day bounced between Monday and Tuesday- darn forecast wouldn’t settle in. Too much SE required we leave Sand Dollar and this time we tucked in behind Rolle Cay where Little Sister usually is but Steve had taken the boat back to Florida shortly after we’d last seen them in town so we moved in until our time to go.

But not before a lovely lunch with “the other TS” at St. Francis.

Jimmy Buffett sings, “come Monday it’ll be alright”, but he’s not the one leaving friends behind, in a rush job to tie up loose ends because Monday’s weather is better for us than the expected Tuesday. We had things to exchange with Traveling Soul- like jewelry, Hudson River charts and food items. And Cort still had that gauge. Accomplishing all that took way more discussion than you even care to know!

Some of you may recall “the egg toss story”.  In this 2017 version, Cort wanted to return our gauge and we wanted to give him two issues of Cruising Outpost which is essentially Latitudes and Attitudes magazine reincarnated by Bob Bitchin’. Cort has lived on the west coast for many years, sailed there and down to Mexico, yet didn’t know of Lats & Atts. We’d been hauling these two issues so why not provide new reading material to someone!

We were actually going to nose up to the end of the Queen’s Dock to make the exchange at high tide, but Cort came out in his boat while we were crossing the harbor. Anyone watching must have wondered what the heck.

After 50-plus days here in George Town, more re-anchorings and variety than ever, more time with new and old friends than usual, great sandbar and beach explorations… we are lucky to have this. Winter was notably benign, although March promises plenty o’wind for the salty sailors.

See you up the chain- the Exuma chain that is.

Since arriving in George Town, the near-perfect mix of socializing and doin’ our own thing has made our stay particularly wonderful. We were bummed to bid farewell to m/v Soulstice– I mean I was going to get on that SUP any day 🙂 but…..

In the meantime m/v Apollo II returned from a stay at Emerald Bay marina a few miles north of Elizabeth Harbour.

The VHF is very busy with hundreds of boats (307 as of 2/27) and I can guarantee that we aren’t the only ones who listen in on conversations when they promise to be “interesting”. For those who we “connect with” and want to keep in touch with, email is the preferred and easy method while in this Bahamian paradise.

Apollo II would be leaving (for good) in couple of days and by some miracle and twenty emails we both ended up in Red Shanks. Their draft is less than ours and being 33’ x 12’ they like the calm and comfy anchor spots too. We spent a delightful couple of happy hours with them, sharing information about Lake Champlain and Eleuthera. Talk of them trading up to a larger (maybe a power cat) boat had us intrigued.  Bon voyage Carole and Jean (you Americanos- do not say Jean as in Blue Jeans, say it Jawn with barely the N sound).

For those paying attention, the above covered the “mission” portion of the hint I gave in the prior post. Get it? Apollo. Mission.

Moving right along….and up to the top of the world, or least the top of Elizabeth Island which is the medium-sized island a stone’s throw south of Stocking Island. Forgive the vague-ness of what I share about TOTW island compound; one of three properties/homes on Elizabeth Island.  I am trying to respect Melanie & Paul’s privacy and still share with you the wonderfulness of this place that we have been invited to share. While we haven’t seen the other two homes, I am certain this paradise palace far surpasses.

I also intend to prove once and for all that the world is a small place and the boating/cruising community the size of a mere water droplet. Bear with me while I TRY to tell a short story!

Our first winter in George Town we met Matt and Tina who cruise on Mattina, a Lagoon sail cat, with their sweet dog Farley. They told us that during cold fronts they went to a secret hidey-hole; a completely protected basin with a dock. Somehow we learned more and how Matt & Tina were friends with the home owners of TOTW. Boy, wouldn’t that be sweet to have no worries when the wind rapidly clocks from SW to N, often at night, and you hope your anchor can adjust.

A few years ago Mattina was sold and her owners re-adjusted to full-time living in Canada with Farley. Tina won several writing awards and is now a published author. Word is that a power cat is in their near future 🙂 .

In the meantime I meet a man in Exuma Market one December day a few years ago when we’d arrived before Christmas to await our son’s arrival. The Corner Store in Cuttyhunk carries an expansive collection of T-shirts and not a visit occurs when we don’t add at least one to our wardrobe. Had one on that day. Paul (the man in the market) comments and we chat. I realize he’s probably the owner of the place where Mattina went. That summer, we visit the Vineyard (MV), anchor in Lake Tashmoo and who do we meet again but Paul. He’s now become acquainted with our friend Cort because Cort bought property on Stocking Island and plans to build what he terms “a camp house.”  Still with me?

Ok, jump to Jan 2017 and guess what? On the dock by Exuma Market, Russ wearing a Cuttyhunk T-shirt we run into Paul and wife Melanie. After a bit of memory refreshing on who we are (been a couple of years) we marvel at the ways we know of and about one another.

Perhaps I haven’t proven “small world”; maybe the lesson is always make sure one of you wears a T-shirt from a cool place when you visit the grocery store!

After joining Paul, Mel, Cort, Max & Giff at the Rusty Anchor to help celebrate Melanie’s birthday Feb 1 we received an invite to dinghy over for a trail walk at TOTW.

Two miles of paths lead from the Cistern House (private quarters) around to several beaches and up to the gazebo at the high point of the property, thus TOTW.  Russ was still hobbled by his sciatica problem so we begged off for a couple of weeks until he could wander about with minimal pain.

The Boat House is anything but; it houses the common areas and a kitchen to envy. How about a garden and fruit tree grove?

Several boats- ok four, so to be incognito at times. Solar- check. Several beaches with shaded seating- check.

Awesome view and yet protected- check.  Storybook paradise. Shhh. Let’s keep it on the QT. (I’m not doing a good job of that am I?)

I’ve lost track but then after that brief one night anchoring at Sand Dollar, we headed over to Kidd’s Cove-or maybe directly up to Monument. But we ended up a few nights anchored at Monument before heading back into Red Shanks again for another nasty (rain and big wind) front. But wait, what’s this? An invitation to a CFP, aka Cold Front Party. At, are you ready- TOTW. Whoda thunk that we’d ever be bringing our big boat in? Other friends of Paul & Melanie, m/v Barefeet received an invitation too and since they were nearby in Red Shanks we stopped by to say HI and to be honest, check them out, but also encourage them to accept the invite.

Erin & Chris completed a 6 year circumnavigation in a PDQ Antares in 2011 and now cruise 6 mos in a Selene trawler with 6 mos dirt dwelling in Boston. I think these guys are the first circumnavigators we’ve met. Bumfuzzle was circumnavigating around the same time but although we feel like we know Pat & Allie through Pat’s blog/website, we have never met them.

So on Feb 22 we filled up B Dock and had ourselves a wonderful time.

Happy hour, dinner, trail walks, beach combing and ohh and ahhing at Melanie’s extensive shell collection. Wed was a high-end potluck with Russ baking focaccia that we used to spread on Erin’s hot artichoke dip. Dinner consisted of marinated and grilled pork tenderloin, olive oil & garlic roasted potatoes and Oriental Slaw with Ramen noodles. The slaw may sound odd, but it’s really tasty. The bread was a hit; handed out the recipe and both TOTW and Barefeet baked it themselves with excellent results. Yay Russ!

Both boats stayed a second night and another potluck was created. This time Paul provided home-made fettucine pasta and ingredients were gathered for puttanesca sauce. More bread and Erin baked a delicious Sausage/Rotel/Cheese dip, but the best part was the grilled romaine. Never had it? Us either. Cut up the full heart lengthwise into quarters, brush with olive oil and lightly season. Grill and serve. The flavor just pops and borders on sweet. Much more yummy than cooked spinach!!

We braved the dark of night to search for ghost crabs in the swamp area but they weren’t cooperating; instead we found frogs on the house. Our daily walks did not produce a Bahamas Boa but we did surprise a couple of brown snakes basking in the sun.

Friday brought an after lunch departure- still very brisk west winds so we simply motored across the harbor to Crab Cay Cove for the night. Another jaunt up to Monument anchorage for more paddle boarding; the board is an ideal lounge board. Russ discovered this after he spent time lightly scrubbing the bottom. We are happy with our bottom paint; working well and even without being on the move much, not much is growing down there.

The annual Cruising Regatta kicked off Feb 24 and we had a good viewing spot for the in-harbor big boat race.

One nice day before the big NE blow that has kept us aboard for five days we went into town to accomplish a few things and enjoyed lunching with Mel & Paul at Peace & Plenty.  Oh look- a PDQ34 heading for Kidd’s Cove. Wonder who?

Stopped by and finally got to meet the famous Sara and Monty Lewis, creators of the Explorer Charts & Cruising Guide and the gold standard source for local knowledge throughout the Bahamas.  Yes, they really still cruise and check out places themselves, although the guides get updated from other sources too. Exchanged boat cards, thanked them for all they’ve done and headed off for the final regatta event: fun volley ball.

Friends Cort, Max, and Fred of m/v Northstar each played on different teams. Was easier to watch the action when two were playing one another. Thus ended the 2017 Cruising Regatta; March 3^rd. Earlier than planned, much to the delight of those who’ve heard enough about it. It’s a huge undertaking, involving many cruisers, Bahamians and local businesses- and too, where else can you play beach golf, beach bocci, beach volleyball, sail, scavenge and do a poker run and more? Oh and acquire a new T-shirt every year to support the Regatta.

As we left Chat ‘n Chill beach, aka Volleyball Beach, I caught these words, “boat over there… lobster.” Did I move quickly? You know I did. Over by the conch shack sat a local skiff with conch and a variety of lobster tails. An amazingly rare sighting of a local Bahamian who’d gone diving and had plenty of fresh catch to sell. The nice man sold us two XL tails for $15 apiece; a fair price for fresh lobster as each tail would be one generous dinner.

On the walk back to our dinghy we caught sight of Chat ‘n Chill’s Sunday meal: Pig roast

At this point our George Town stay was winding down and yet our social calendar still contained pending items. Let’s see how that all played out… in the next episode of “Making the Best of the George Town KOA” .