Beautiful weather is no illusion

One of the tiny Pimlico Cays along the shallow draft route from Lee Stocking to Rudder

One of the tiny Pimlico Cays along the shallow draft route from Lee Stocking to Rudder

Rudder Cut Cay appears to be named after Rudder Cut which got its name either from the rudder shaped tiny cay that sits south of the cut or from the ship that lost its rudder after hitting a huge fish in Exuma Sound near the cut. Once again, you can choose the story you like best.

Rudder Cut Cay is privately owned; not sure by whom but whoever owns it is very determined to keep everyone off the island and the beaches.  A beach guard dog and sturdy, serious signs warn that trespassers will be prosecuted. Cameras in various places even appear real.

The dog is an effective way to keep you off the beach. Feel bad for the dog anyway.

The dog is an effective way to keep you off the beach. Feel bad for the dog anyway.

Fortunately we came to snorkel the stainless steel underwater sculpture firmly placed in sand in 12-15ft of clear water, compliments of David Copperfield, owner of Musha Cay (just north of Rudder) and several other small cays nearby. If our research is correct, he shelled out $50 million in 2006 and spends maybe 10 weeks/year here. Individuals and groups with mega bucks can visit the resort with its lovely curved beach, beautiful palms and a gorgeous all-mahogany dock with room for a few go-fast boats. Trained macaws pick up flotsam and debris and deposit their finds in a trash container; we saw this in action when we took Bunting around for a look-see.

Real mahogany docks at Musha Cay

Real mahogany docks at Musha Cay

As you know we are without an underwater camera so we borrowed a shot of the piano with mermaid sculpture for your viewing pleasure.

Worth donning mask and fins for

Worth donning mask and fins for

Around the corner from where we’d anchored was this very cool cave that you could walk or dinghy into at low tide; and that darn dog couldn’t chase you away! Complete with a teeny beach, the requisite skylights and interesting cracks and crevices, we also spied a juvenile conch making tracks for someplace to call home.

Inside the cave

Inside the cave

Very unusual for a cave to have a beach

Very unusual for a cave to have a beach

Looking out from the cave- I'm conch walk watching

Looking out from the cave- I’m conch walk watching

Around 2pm it was time for us to make tracks- all the way to Cave Cay, 3 miles north. Just far enough to make hot water and give the reasonably happy batteries an additional boost. With the sun getting higher in the sky, we‘ve noticed much better solar charging.

Tuesday (Jan 11) we headed out to our favorite sand bar which sits one mile west of Cave Cay. This was the site two years ago where we took the photo you see as our Gravatar, using the timer and setting the camera on top of the dinghy box which we set up on the seat. Today was another gorgeous low wind, clear, low humidity day; perfect for beach combing and feeling very lucky to be here.

Looking west away from land

Looking west away from land

Looking toward Cave Cay. This is the white stuff we love!

Looking east toward Cave Cay. This is the white stuff we love!

Sand bar treasures vary with the day, week and year. We came across several (living) deep orange sea stars, only a few young conch and I picked up a bunch of white sand dollars to add to my growing collection.

Would you call this a rock star? The song: Sea Star Love

Would you call this a rock star? The song: Sea Star Love

 

Russ had the camera- how could I refuse?

Russ had the camera- how could I refuse?

Around 2pm we headed 4nm north to the next cay, Big Farmers, where exactly two months ago we anchored to stage for heading down Exuma Sound to George Town. Although that feels like a fast two months, we’ve packed a whole bunch of activities and places into it. Today would be the last of the “do anything you want days” for who knows how long but we hadn’t counted on a repair project to top things off. While at the beach we noticed that the Hypalon strip that is glued to the dinghy below the rubrail, and is used to hold the bottom edge of the chaps down (remember how the water would find its way under the chaps until we Velcroed a strip of Hypalon to the chap’s bottom edge and then glued the bottom edge of the strip to the dinghy?) was becoming unglued on one side. Back aboard Russ performed a quick “dry and re-glue” that we hope will last at least until Florida.

Return to Exumas: Boot to Stocking..Lee that is

sailing

Occurs to me that this would be described as Three Sheets to the Wind

Never say never, so I will graciously allow that for ONCE the forecasting was right on, giving us a most glorious 51nm sail from Cat Island’s New Bight to Lee Stocking Island via Adderly Cut. In fact the wind speed and angle were perfect for a once (maybe twice) in 4 year flying of all three sails at once- for nearly three hours of the total six and ½ hrs we were able to sail. Our speed stayed up well into the high seven knots, often into the eights and our top speed for a few seconds was 10kts.

During the trip as we crossed Exuma Sound, we saw a very rare Bahamas event; a vessel (45ft lovely monohull) being towed. Couldn’t say for sure from where or to, but the angle looked like perhaps from Long Island heading to Spanish Wells; quite a long, read “overnight” trip at maybe what, 5 kts max?

Our timing through the cut was close to slack but with SE at 11kts the cut was benign; always much appreciated. We weren’t sure what to expect at the anchorages but figured maybe 6-8 max. Imagine our surprise at the many masts sticking up above the tree line as we came around the northern tip, dropping the main and turning toward the looking-more-full-by-the-moment anchoring areas. Found out that yesterday being the first Friday in Feb… well it was time for the Farmers Cay First Friday in February Festival, or 5F to we locals. 🙂 176 anchored boats were counted early Saturday in and near Little Farmers Cay. Thanks to the great weather before, during and after, the festival must have enjoyed near-record attendance.

One chore needed to be done before we could spend the next three days immensely enjoying the beautiful, calm, pure Bahamas days about to appear. The threads holding the zipper down the length of the stack pack had given their lives to the sun and more sewing was needed there as well as patches on a few holes near the front where the fabric just beats itself up flapping about. Not exactly well designed.

About 10ft long and loaded with tiny shells along its length- it stunk

About 10ft long and loaded with tiny shells along its length- it stunk

So we worked on that for 30 mins and then Russ noticed a 3/8” black line floating in the water about mid-ship under the starboard hull; we could see just a foot or so of it floating next to the boat. Humm. Here’s my version: Russ thought the line might be attached to something, maybe an old mooring or something heavy sitting 8ft down with a line on it. When we made our approach to anchor I was watching at the bow to be sure we dropped anchor in a sandy spot and I did not see anything in the water. Of course, I could not be 100% sure- but 95% anyway.  I suggested we use the boat hook to try and pick it up and see what happens. That idea was rejected. A short time after we spotted the line, a slight wind shift moved us and what do you know but the line was still under the starboard hull in the same spot. So now I am adamant that this line is not in the sand but somehow attached to our hull, like a remora.  More of the line seemed visible so I retrieved the boat hook and was able to lift up enough of the line so Russ could grab it. At that moment I realized, and Russ did too, that the line must have gotten wedged into the dagger board trunk on our trip from Cat.

Moving the board up and down didn’t dislodge it; pulling on it from on deck or in the water didn’t work, but the next day we managed to pull it out with the dinghy. Well that’s a first. Trying to fish and we snag an old line; at least it didn’t find its way into a prop.

Two years ago we stopped here and spent time hiking around and taking the trail up to Perry’s Peak- the highest hill in the Exumas. But today was perfect for Driving Ms Bunting around the beaches and shoreline of Lee Stocking Island.

So many beaches, so much blue sky and white puffy clouds

So many beaches, so much blue sky and white puffy clouds

Loved the look of the curved palm tree

Loved the look of the curved palm tree

Down close to Williams Bay we spied a large stingray and as we headed slowly back, we started seeing one after the other, most resting in a few inches of sand.  Sea stars were even more abundant and easier to photograph, but lacked the visual appeal of the stingrays.

So clear you'd think we used an underwater camera

So clear you’d think we used an underwater camera

Snuggle stingrays look like ghosts in sand

Snuggle stingrays look like ghosts in sand

This stingray had a remora friend along for the ride

This stingray had a remora friend along for the ride

sea star

Isn't this one nearly invisible?

Isn’t this one nearly invisible?

We planned to head for Rudder Cut Cay around 2pm to catch high tide through the Pimlicos which are a banks route for shallow draft vessels like us. As usual, we engaged in our typical tide discussion first. 🙂