Black Point to Pipe Cay

So busy we had to wait our turn for two washers

So busy we had to wait our turn for two washers

The protected harbor at Black Point was very full- more than we’d expected- most boats headed north, but some still moving south. The to-do list included, laundry, coconut bread, use wifi to move iPhone photos to the Photo Stream and hopefully Skype with Benj.

Any grocery items at the market would be a plus and I was happy to snag the last dozen eggs. Mr Adderley told us that the Bahamian government had just increased the import tax on eggs to 30%! Yikes. Egg prices throughout the islands are reasonable, often less than $3 for large, VL or jumbo eggs. We read a newspaper article the other day that shed some light on this tax increase and my take-away was that the government has egg on its face! Too little too late was the sentiment expressed. Local egg producers had already gone belly-up and crossed the road to rely on other means of a livelihood. Making imported eggs more expensive should have occurred 4-5 years ago, not now when the result will be less profit for the grocer, based on the allowed markup.

Several times we’ve noted how we’ve seen not one other Maine Cat, either a 30 or 41, this year. So what do we see as we approach the anchorage and head for the spot we want? Yep-a MC 41 named Snazzy Kitty, with very snazzy graphics on her bows. (sorry no photo). She is MC41 hull #3 (we are 21) and Larry and Melanie bought her last summer from the original owner. They are no strangers to Maine Cat; they own Moondoggy who’s in charter in Hope Town. Snazzy is also in charter so they are headed for Hope Town by March 5th. We had them over so they could see changes since #3 was built and see what we’d added or updated ourselves.

Tuesday afternoon we did another “depart at 2pm-ish” move, 13nm north to Pipe Cay. This is another favorite place and would place us 14nm south of Warderick Wells and within VHF calling distance to get on the list for a mooring Thursday and Friday nights. Moorings can be requested for the current or following day so Wednesday morning during the 9am Exuma Park announcements we got on the list.

Shortly after switching back to Channel 16 we heard a vessel hailing Traveling Soul. We’d been hoping to meet up with them as we both moved up and down the Exumas and last we knew they were in George Town. I called and learned they were headed to Nassau for some repairs but they altered their plans and said they’d meet us at Warderick when we arrived Thursday. Sweet!

The day was spent exploring both east and west sides of Pipe Cay. We found several pieces of what looked like wooden planks from a sunk and washed up boat. The piece Russ broke off one end would make a perfect replacement plaque for an Ortolan sign on Boo Boo Hill. Our other one did not fare well and we found it broken last season amid the pile of driftwood signs.

Many discarded conch shell piles dot  Pipe Cay's east side beach

Many discarded conch shell piles dot Pipe Cay’s east side beach

The fuel freighter, Tropic Breeze was anchored a short distance behind us waiting for a boat to come get its fuel for the generators that are used on the islands to generate power. Larger islands have a BEC power plant but the little guys are on their own. Before we left in the morning she’d moved on to her next delivery up near Halls and Little Halls Pond Cay.

Tropic Breeze as she's about to pass behind us

Tropic Breeze as she’s about to pass behind us

Shortly after we left we crossed paths with Tropic Breeze who had the right of way (being on our right side) but we since we were sailing (at a brisk 8kts) we felt sure she would take our stern. We would usually give way to a priority vessel, especially since if she had restricted maneuverability AND on our starboard side, we’d be the vessel expected to get out of the way- and who’d want to collide with a fuel tanker?

Bitter Guana’s Iguanas

Ortolan at anchor with Staniel Cay in the distance

Ortolan at anchor with Staniel Cay in the distance

We are happy that time and weather have allowed us to visit new places as well as many favorites. Sunday the 16th was a gorgeous, barely a breath of wind day. After Staniel we needed to backtrack south to Black Point for laundry and a loaf of – bet you can guess- Mom’s coconut bread. We still had most of the batch we’d backed, but no one on Ortolan complains about eating coconut bread French toast instead of cereal. Although cruisers might not do well at knowing the date or day of the week, we do need to know “Come Sunday.” Most shops, etc are closed either all day or may only open for a few hours in the morning.  No point in rushing the seven miles to Black Point on a perfectly wonderful day; ideal for exploring a new place (with a beach of course), Bitter Guana Cay which lies in between Staniel and Black Point.

When heading south on the banks (west) side from Staniel, you have two choices; either go the long way out and around Harvey Cay, or if your draft allows you can take the shorter, direct route closer to shore.

The spot to anchor off the beach is very pretty with a sparkling view of the white limestone cliff at the southern end of the beach.

White underside of cliff as we dinghy down to South Gaulin Cay

White underside of cliff as we dinghy down to South Gaulin Cay

Bitter Guana Cay and her neighbor, South Gaulin Cay are home to the endangered Rock Iguanas. They greet everyone who lands on the beach, hoping for a tasty fruit or veggie morsel, even though people are requested not to feed them.boat and beach

We climbed up the cliff for an expansive 360 degree view and agreed that today was a Bahamas picture-perfect day; water shades from clear to deep blue surrounded by blue sky.

Refusing to be left behind, I climbed up too- wasn't too hard

Refusing to be left behind, I climbed up too- wasn’t too hard

We dinghied a short ways to South Gaulin Cay for more iguana viewing and along the way noticed a huge osprey nest on the very point of a “high” cliff. No one chased us away, although the iguanas act like they are doing just that; they are curious and looking for a handout.

This guy is ready to be served at the table

This guy is ready to be served at the table

Our afternoon dinghy trip took us north toward South Staniel and we even stuck our nose out into the Sound to check on a small beach, but a small reef close created too much swell at the beach. The area at South Staniel includes the airport; a busy place with private planes, commercial flights and Watermaker’s Air making several stops every day.

Plane approaches the airstrip at Staniel

Plane approaches the airstrip at Staniel

Some planes run into trouble and become a curiosity and home to sea life in shallow water.

This one didn't quite leave the island

This one didn’t quite leave the island

As usual we spotted rays and needlefish and we did see something new.  Back aboard around 5pm we watched an osprey indulge in a lengthy bathing routine at the water’s edge.

Bath time

Bath time

We wondered why he/she chose a spot at least a mile from the nest. Perhaps this was a weary female in need of a spa visit 🙂