Church and Chill Jan 26- Jan 29

Sunshine equals energy generation on Ortolan and with the boom swung to the side we get a full day of Ms Sunshine beating down on our four solar panels. Power hog that we are, the sun provides most of our juice although not all.  We have fallen into a 3 day cycle with the generator: day 1 no use- yea!, day 2 run it an hour and day 3 run for two hours to charge the batteries well and make enough hot water for showers. Making water is another matter. Harbor water is clean enough for us to make fresh water, but will run down the batteries unless we run the generator. Did that once but otherwise we lug our two 5 gal jugs every time we go in to town.

A very full dinghy dock

Exuma Markets provides free R/O (reverse osmosis) water right at the dock, making it easy to dinghy up and fill your jugs. So now you have the background story on the “chill” part of the title because when Russ hurt his back lifting a jug from dinghy on to the stern, we ended up lying low for a few days, and taking things easy for a few more after that.

Once again I played galley-slave and baked coconut bread, cranberry/oatmeal bars and poached chicken breasts for chicken salad. We visited the Corner Laundry one afternoon when the wind calmed down; always feels good to get that chore done with.

Saturday afternoon and evening was a celebration at Regatta Point in honor of Buzzy Rolle, boat builder extraordinaire. Bahamian sloop races, delicious ribs, burgers and fish, rum punch all enjoyed to a danceable selection of Bahamian /Caribbean music blasting from the speakers.

Donald- the man can dance!

Sunday we attended Beach Church, an officially recognized non-denominational church… under the pines, on the sun-bleached wooden benches and picnic tables. A prettier setting is not to be found. Oh, and a choir accompanied by organ music or on some days guitar and violin.  Coffee and tea is provided (not sure by whom) in thermoses and cruisers who want to socialize afterward bring a treat to share. We brought some coconut bread. Dress is naturally very casual and footwear is scarce.

The roughly hour long “service” and I use that word in the most general sense, is led by George Hohenstein (more on him and Toby his wife later) on Puff and proceeded such: greeting and messages, new attendees stand and introduce themselves, hymns, more hymns, more hymns – no ok not that many, but to me, who can’t carry a tune, it was more than I was comfortable with- songbook provided of course, then a “lesson”, concerns and anyone who needed to be prayed for, choir song and closed with everyone joining hands and singing the Lord’s Prayer.

Russ had no more than picked up a coconut cupcake than Toby came up to us and shared that she and George hailed from Groton and would love to chat. We were eager to get a look at the inside of a house boat- be there at 5pm.

Community Fun Jan 22- Jan 25

Our happy faces continue as the weather gods bless us with a daily dose of: mostly sunny, high of 80 with winds 8-14kts. Another cold front will reach us next Sunday and that means low winds for two days followed by strong winds for 2-3 days on average. Very predictable- just how I like it. Another thing we’ve noticed that is better in The Bahamas is all the clean air. Ortolan is noticeably cleaner- outside and in- than when we’re most anywhere along the east coast. Can’t credit the rain; rarely does more than sprinkle except when an approaching cold front might bring in rain or T-showers.
Sundays are old-fashioned here; businesses are closed except for eateries or a market open half day. We took a day off from the road trip into town to scout the trails on Sand Dollar Beach. Near the picnic tables an easy-to-walk sandy path winds its way across a narrow section of Stocking Island over to the ocean side. The foliage and short palm trees create a canopy that allows enough light in to see yet provides protection from the sun. Some kind person set up a bird bath in the trees with extra water jugs nearby. Instructions on the jugs say to fill the bath when M.T.

Feed the birds....

Birds get water, I get a photo

The ocean beach on Stocking Island is 3 miles long and while I won’t say it’s beautiful, it is a lovely walk for humans and dogs alike. No shells though which was disappointing. We did find a piece of old driftwood for our Boo Boo Hill boat plaque.

The ocean-side beach on Stocking Island

Dare I mention the fishing “seminar” Russ and many others attended? Getting that darn fish- likely to weigh more than 20 lbs- hauled in and subdued sounds like a huge ordeal to me. Not to mention the hefty equipment you need; this isn’t fishing in a stream, this is big game fishing. Hundreds of sheckles later (assuming you get a good ebay deal or similar) you can now set out at least 4 trolling lines and wait, hoping that you get a hit when you’re not in the middle of tacking or gybing. Oh, and be sure to get it hauled out of the water before a shark smells blood! Heaven forbid you get two hits at once.
For now we’ll be very content to buy freshly caught (frozen) snapper, mahi, conch, lobster and grouper at the local hair salon. Yes, you read that right- isn’t that where you’d expect to go? The salon owner’s husband goes out fishing most days and the next day you’ll find a good selection at reasonable prices.
The other day we found a great book at the library, Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day by Jeff Hertzberg, M.D. and Zoe Francois. Fabulous, easy and delicious recipes. We are gung ho on making and consuming as much as possible. Russ made a yummy rosemary and shallot focaccia bread to bring to our very first happy hour on the beach. Not only was it a hit; it provided a topic of conversation when we set it out.

Focaccia bread a la Ortolan

Background music, compliments of the various informal groups of cruiser/musicians. We met several boats from Sand Dollar area and were surprised to be greeted by Diane of One White Tree, the catamaran we’d met in Nassau. Ross, her guitar-playing half, joined us after his set and we caught up.
I planned ahead- how unlike me uh?- and made conch chowder for us to eat after the beach party; just re-heat and serve… with tasty olive oil herb bread. My Bahama Mama cookbook is getting a workout- finally. The chowder is a tomato- based one, plenty of seasonings and I even had the turmeric called for. You chop/dice the conch and let it tenderize in several tablespoons lime juice until ready to plop in the chowder. Paid $3 for the conch meat- cheap enough.