Cays, Holes and More

Motor sailing for lack of wind, we arrived at what is generally known as Devil’s-Hoffman. Several tiny cays (hope you are pronouncing this “key”) are closely scattered between the two larger ones. We planned to anchor in the lee of White Cay off its pretty sandy beach in plenty of water; plan B was behind Saddleback or Fowl Cay. In the Bahamas, much of what we take for granted in our east coast cruising is a bit sketchy. Charting is not as extensive or as up-to-date and depths may not agree to the chart – paper or electronic.  Any wonder that the first page of the Explorer Chart book provides excellent photographic examples of how to read the water along with advice to have enough sun overhead to do so, especially when close to land.

White Cay was filled with depth hogging monos and Saddleback was quickly crossed off the chart as an anchoring spot when even we, with 3 ft draft touched bottom- just one hull though. Fowl Cay on the other hand had plenty of water, 11-15 ft where the chart indicated seven. We make notes on the chart and in the guides as we go. This placed us within 120 ft of Hoffman and a shorter dinghy ride to the second beach where we’d find the path that leads to a blue hole. For those unfamiliar with a blue hole, as we were, this one’s story reads like this: a round, salt-water hole about the size of a baseball infield. It connects to the ocean near the bottom of its 600 ft depth. (no anchoring for monohulls though). Explored by Jacques Cousteau, it is thought to have been formed by a natural cataclysm. I’d rule out a sinkhole that sank since the entire island is rock.

Happy Bunting hangs out at Hoffman Cay Beach

The path ends right at the edge of the overhanging rock platform and as you look down, no way is that jump only 25 ft. Scoot down the tiny path at the edge to water level. Look up and declare, “oh, that’s not bad at all.” From above, the 25ft appears more like 50, while from below it seems more like 20ft.  Benj can attest to a screamin’, exhilarating 25 ft jump that feels like 50! Russ remained in the “not brave adult” group and me- what else, I could barely look down and remained a dry photographer of the blue hole swim and float outing.

Blue Hole as seen from above

Yes! A perfect jump by the brave one

Tuesday afternoon we explored White Cay; sandy beach on the west side, rock cliffs and outcroppings on the east. We picked up a handful of sea glass, an intact sea biscuit and made faces looking at the strange gelatin-glob creatures nestled in the rock crannies; they were the aquatic equivalent to a Venus Fly Trap. As we walked along the beach to collect our stuff and thus the lonely camera, a small terrier who’d been brought ashore was barking like crazy. Took a second to realize that he was doing a couple rounds with a crab he’d dug out of its hole; the crab clearly had the upper hand- claw and finally escaped into the water. By that time I’d grabbed the camera and managed to get a couple of in-water shots.

A Berry Good Islands Holiday

Believing is good and I’m not talking about Santa, although maybe our super easy crossing to the Bahamas was a gift from a benevolent higher power than we. Beginners’ luck at the very least.  The temperamental Gulf Stream, known for its strong northerly flow and marching elephant-like waves when the wind opposes the current, was so benign for us that if not for the increase in speed (2kt current sweeping us north) we couldn’t tell we were in it.  Near perfect crossing conditions favored us and made for an easy 28 hour overnight run from Long Key Bight into Great Harbour Cay Marina in the Berry Islands, Bahamas. Excitement ran high when a pod of dolphins joined us for a short swim and play visit.

A Christmas Eve Crossing Approaching Bimini

Clearing in was a simple process of filling out several forms about ourselves and the boat, with each of us completing the usual immigration form. The dock master called in the customs/immigration official located at the nearby airport. Russ brought in the paperwork and our passports. 15 mins later he returned: passports stamped, immigration form stamped with 120 days allowed and $300 lighter.

Russ goes to clear us in

Wi-fi worked… slowly. Email was about all we could do, but that was sufficient. A walk around lead us to a beautiful crescent beach on the eastern shore. Things were quiet due to the holiday and Boxing Day on Monday. A local fishing boat docked next to us; they’d come in Saturday afternoon, unloaded their catch and got right back to building more traps.  They’d take a short break for Christmas then head out for a week or so. The marina had two washers and dryers and since only one of each worked, the crew spent many hours (and $) dealing with that chore.

I did a load Monday morning before we took off. The machines use small, flat, plastic tokens which you purchase for $5 each in the office.

Our day’s journey would take us up and over Little Stirrup Cay then around and south into an anchorage at the southern tip of Hoffman Cay. Norwegian Cruise Lines leases the privately owned Little and Great Stirrup Cays. On Monday the Norwegian Pearl rested in Bertram Cove on Great Stirrup. If nothing else, the cruise ships provide work and income for the islanders; tour and shuttle boats and market wares.

First Bahamas Snorkel: water so clear

A lunch time stop nearby in Great Harbour provided a few trip firsts: crystal clear water, a visual on the anchor and a snorkel. Benj reported spotting several sea cucumbers and an oblong thing with overlapping ½” scutes framed by a 3/8” flat, moss-like material. We found a bunch of them at White Cay, but alas no camera.